kerwinl

Link does not work.

I recently did a cycle following the routine listed here:http://www.climbingstrong.com/2012/09/09/effects-of-two-maximum-grip-strength-training-methods/ One of the first regimens that I have seen that has some rigorous science behind it. My maximum ADDED weight on a 19mm edge increased from 20 lbs to 45 lbs for a 10 second hang. I weigh ~175lbs, so this translates to roughly 12% increase in absolute weight held for 10 seconds. How this translates to climbing has yet be seen. For reference my hardest climbing outdoors are a few V8's and V9's mostly V7's.

I come at this question from the perspective of a boulderer. I got into climbing because of bouldering, and still spend the majority of my time and training effort towards bouldering, its what I know, its where my friends are, it is relaxing. The majority of my bouldering buddies are anti-rope, My perception of their anti-rope mentality is the unwillingness to start a new activity and again be at the bottom of the food chain. Myself, I started to branch out into mountaineering, through glacial slogs, and slowly moving into the ranks of harder more technical alpine climbing. I am guessing this movement was somewhat aided by my lifelong skiing habbit, as soon as I moved into ski touring, it only seemed natural to make the progression and put alpine touring and climbing together.

My party turned around on an attempt Friday Night/Saturday Morning, we took a break around that elevation, I will check with my partners.

How was the traverse underneath the ridge on the other side of the large crevasse to gain the snow slope on the east side of the ridge?

Obviously the most appropriate response.

We were attempting north ridge on Friday night(9/21), and we saw some strange lights at around 1AM coming from around 6000 ft in the hogsback area. We are assuming it was a kite with a headlamp strapped to it, but are curious if anyone else has more info.

One more questions, are people accessing the ridge by traversing left around the base of the ridge? Or is it still possible to use the ramps at the base with a short bit of scrambling across the scree as indicated in this TR? http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1080237/TR_Mt_Baker_North_Ridge_8_26_2#Post1080237

Thanks a bunch for the beta, I may give this a try this weekend. Cheers!

Anybody know if you can still access the ridge from the coleman? Last TR two weeks ago looked okay, and the sun is getting low in the sky now, maybe it is still doable?

The Speed 40 carries up to 40lbs with ease. Very comfortable on the approach, then strips down for climbing. At about 160 dollars, good value for a pack.

Where is this at exactly? Post up some pics!

They will stretch considerably, just keep wearing them. My Pythons were to tight to initially get on without a fight, now they climb like a dream, although they are not an all day shoe. Remember these are an unlined leather shoe, unlike a lot of the current rock shoe offerings, they will stretch out more then you think.

If you cant find a place for free. Check out Extra Car parking, I think you can get it for under 7.00/day if you book in advance. I use them all the time when travelling for work.

I boulder more then I climb with a rope on. In my opinion anything with crap like this on the heel, makes the shoe much less effective then a smooth proper heel. This opinion becomes doubly true when bouldering on our northwest granite, which is not smooth, but bumpy and full of crystals.

Most sources on avalanche safety I have read or seen, indicate that trees must be spaced at less then 3 M or 10 feet from each other. That spacing is close enough to make skiing hard for a large amount of people. I wonder how the increases in spacing effects the anchoring ability of the trees. I would be willing to bet the spacing vs anchoring ability relationship is not a linear correlation.

I tour mainly on a pair of Lotus 138's that are widest under foot, tapered into the tips/tails. At 8 lbs per pair I give up 1 lb per foot compared to a dedicated touring ski. The rather absurd amount of rocker they have makes skiing soft snow stupid fun/easy, and breaking trail rather enjoyable because the tips stay on top of the snow with lifting the leg. Of course by compensating on the Boot/Binding setup my overall weight per foot is still under 7lbs/foot which I consider to be very very reasonable. With that said I am looking to get a "skinny" ski for spring time touring, something in the 95-100mm waist.

Matty, Really nice tool! I have been playing with the angle feature a bit here. From what I understand the colors progress from Green --> Yellow -- > Red --> Purple/Blue as the slope angle progresses. Can you give some feed back on what the general range of slope angles those colors fall into? Thanks!

The main difference between the Couloir and the Lithium is the down fill. The Couloir uses 800 fill, whereas the Lithium uses 850+. This results in some weight savings of about 4-5 oz per bag. That said, I have a Marmot Lithium EQ Long, which is the 850+ fill waterproof version that is pretty much new (slept in outside twice), that I am looking to get rid of. See more information here: Marmot Lithium EQ I am thinking about 450 shipped. PM me if your interested.

Must have been you guys we saw on the ridge as we were climbing. Unless you were the skier pair further down the ridge-line as we descended. How was the snow up top?

Me and a partner went in Saturday to the killen TH, the roads are snow free if you take the directions Paul K. posted above.