Lodestone

Kevin I'm pretty sure Climb Max has it in stock. Might want to call them first before you head out. 503 979-1991 Chad

Have fun. Are you going alone? I still haven't found a partner for Saturday. Anyone? I'd rather not resort to plan B. Chad

I'd like to get out to Broughton Bluff tomorrow (Sat). The weather forecast is looking good. Let me know if you're interested. Chad

US Outdoor Store in downtown has them: http://www.usoutdoorstore.com/outlet/dmm-v-twin-belay-device.html?cvsfa=2293&cvsfe=2&cvsfhu=3134303533

20 feet/second is probably the fastest I rappel and that works out to less than 14 miles/hour. Chad

I've gotten several belay devices too hot to touch, including an ATC. I've yet to get burn lines on my rope. When I'm done with the rappel I get the rope out of the device (if it's hot) so as to not cook the rope. Hard to say if your concerns are valid without being there. I have only been using one for a couple months now but the DMM V-twin is very resistant to heating up. It could be a double edged sword though, if I ever do heat the thing up, it's going to take a while to cool off (stainless steel). As a bonus, you probably won't be able to wear one out for a long long time. Oh yea, if you do get a V-twin, you might want to smooth the edges a little bit with some fine sandpaper. A friend put some fuzz stripes down a new rope because of the rough casting surface on the V-twin. Ditto what hanman said, a small brake rack. Chad

Unless there's more than one of those spray-painted RANGER things, it's near the top of Phylynx. Incredible route. I put some info on accessing the Wizard Wall climbs here : http://www.mountainproject.com/v/oregon/rocky_butte/wizard_wall/106950993 ^Is that the area you're talking about Ben? Like Joseph said, the tops is going to be slick right now (although most of Wizard Wall is probably dry right now). While you're out there, try Mind Games if you haven't already. Chad

B.B. routes that are usually dry: Hanging Gardens Edges & Ledges (gets wet in spots but not in key areas) The Sickle (gets water on the outside of the 'flake' but doesn't affect climbing) P1 Loose Block Overhang (the mantel below the anchor gets wet but it's not a deal breaker) Red Wall Anastasia (usually dry but it wasn't 2 weekends ago) Classic Crack (it'll be dry enough) P1 Red Eye (I've climbed this in the rain but it weeps after several days of precipitation) Thai Stick (doesn't get rained on but it can get seeped on) P1 Sheer Stress (it'll be dry enough) Sheer Energy (can get seeped on but the crux stays dry) Spring Rock Toe Cleavage (gets seeped on but the crux stays dry) Free Bird (the top is usually wet but the roofs stay dry) Short Fuse (it'll be dry enough) Bat Wall There's a lot of dry rock here but the popular moderates (P1 Superstition, Lost Boys, Well Hung) are often wet in bad areas. Chad

Broughton Bluff has quite a few dry lines right now. It's a good place to climb during a light rain. Same thing with the Farside. Chad

Hi Ben I'd be up for some climbing with you at Rocky Butte. Especially after Daylight Savings when climbing after work is viable. I don't tend to climb there too much in the winter as there are warmer and dryer places near town. Have you been out there recently? What's dry? Chad

Mark It seems as though the fid might poke/impale the climber given the right set of circumstances. Dane I'd like to see a picture of this knot. Chad

Sweet TR. I'd been wondering about Free Lunch. Chad

Laser - precise, modern, etc. or Hornet - green shoes....green hornet Chad

limestone

Being discussed here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/999685/Say_it_isn_t_so#Post999685

It was $10. Great condition too. So is that Mr. Thomas in the red shirt? Chad

Every once in a while I come away from Powell's with a nice old book. A chapter on Beacon is included too. What's that saying about the best climbing in Oregon? Chad

Totally cool. It's nice to own gear made by a company that cares and stands behind their products. Chad

Seems like a good deal. I'm still waiting for the Groupon deal for Clubsport to happen again. http://www.groupon.com/deals/the-circuit-bouldering-gym-1 Chad

Wow Nastia, these are some surprising pictures you're posting. Thanks. Chad

That would be my guess. I haven't found much info on it, at least that's not in German. About once a year for the last five years I've asked my non-climbing co-worker about "that old ice axe" in the corner of his office. This thread reminded me to ask again and this time he said take it. Must be a Christmas miracle. Chad

Here's one I bartered for today. Similar to Le Piston's but with a carabiner hole. Chad

Has anyone tried racking screws with the Kong Paddle carabiner? It's got a huge opening and basket to accommodate kayak paddles shafts. Available in both wire-gate an solid-gate. Chad

Do either of the logos look like the ones below? Chad

Amy Macdonald - This is the Life. Chad