The Cascade Kid

Solid work from a workin' man.

Trip: Mt. Stuart - Upper North Ridge w/Great Gendarme Date: 9/4/2012 Trip Report: [img:center]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8296/7964687736_d682221be7_c.jpg[/img] Pinky and the Brain headed to the upper north ridge of Mt Stuart a bit over a week ago. We approached via the South Side, which is a big bite of hiking, but for a fit party traveling with reasonable weight, it's entirely reasonable to plan to bivy on the ridge by sundown. [img:center]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8296/7948037420_32a4948aba_z.jpg[/img] Pretty psyched to have bivied and climbed behind Joel and Trevor...our pleasure gentlemen. And Allister and John (?) hope that you had a good climb, whatever your Plab B turned out to be. Small bits of beta: 1.The trail from Ingal's lake to Stuart Pass is faint. Have faith and it delivers. 2. Getting down from the moraine and onto the Stuart Glacier is nontrivial. Choose between steep and loose moraine junk or downclimbing stiff snow (probably ok if you actually brought boots, but in approach shoes+crampons, it's a less-than-ideal option) 3. There was water available below the big nunatak on the Stuart Glacier, even at 5pm 4. The transition from snow back onto rock in the 4th glass gully is steep, exposed water ice for a few feet. 5. IMO the climbing in the gully has a few steps of true 4th class. 6. No snow or water on the ridge. 7. On the descent, there's a lot of funny beta about getting around the false summit. Ignore becky, and head to the notch in the ridge that looks like the most obvious way. Go across the ridge above the humongous boulder and the passage goes at 3rd class. 8. Be on the lookout soon after that for the CC on your left for the descent. 9. Water was available in the CC at the top and near the bottom, should continue to be this way until the snow comes. For more photos, check out das flickr For a more subjective take on the climb see Mountain Lessons Gear Notes: Double rack 0.5"-3", 1 #4, single rack of nuts, no need for microcams/C3s, plenty o'slings, microtraxion for pack hauling / unapproved simul climbing protection.

Rodney, you're the man. Everyone else should get something to write about. All of this bickering about grades makes me want to put on a skirt and play hopscotch.

that's some pretty new looking gear.

hey there poser. if you check out the link to my flickr, there's another one of you guys in there coming up behind us. It was good to meet you up there and figure out that last bit of the climb. -P

Trip: Mt. Hood - Reid Glacier Headwall Date: 4/17/2010 Trip Report: 4/17-4/18 A.Ragus and I set out to climb Leuthold's couloir, but ended up climbing the Reid Glacier Headwall. For a more lengthy and subjective report see: http://sittingstone.wordpress.com/2010/04/18/reaping-fears-crop/'>http://sittingstone.wordpress.com/2010/04/18/reaping-fears-crop/ We skied to Illumination Saddle, where we stashed skis and slept the night in an open bivy under clear skies with light wind. In the morning we left camp at 4am, right in front of a nice group that had come up behind us. Reaching the base of Leuthold's couloir, and never having been up there before, I led us a little bit too far right. The snow was perfect for kicking steps for the most part, and after several hundred feet of climbing, it became abundantly clear that we'd gone the way of the headwall. Things felt good so we chose to continue, lacking any beta (I like to think of it as a second first-ascent). We wove our way through the rime towers on mostly good and stable snow, with pockets of sugary slog here and there. The angle climbed to at most 50 degrees at points, but likely averaged around 40 degrees. Around 10250' there was an optional section of clear blue WI2-, a great pleasure. We joined forces around there with a group of two (one from PMR) to finish out the route, which proved tricky due to unconsolidated snow. A--- took care of it, stemming up a steep unconsolidated rime chimney, removing all thoughts of impossibility. We rendezvoued with those who had chosen the right way to leuthold's on the summit ridge, and an exposed traverse put us on top around 730am. A friendly descent west of the old chute took us around the hordes and down to Irock, where we grabbed the skis, broke camp, and descended on good snow above T-line, and absolutely crap snow under the lifts. We reached the lot around 1030. For more and larger images than are included below see: http://www.flickr.com/photos/gonemonk http://sittingstone.wordpress.com http://www.facebook.com/#!/album.php?aid=2049510&id=1156050005 Gear Notes: A--- used one axe, I used two tools. 30M 8mm dry cord for the glacier brought two pickets and one screw, used none. Approach Notes: Skis to I-rock. Roped for 2-man travel on the Reid, likely wasn't necessary. Didn't rope for the climb or descent.

So. Good.

Cute matching skis.

Wow, solid ski fellas.

Love them peaks where you can't fall-- you'll just fall over.

That looks damn terrifying. Fine lead.

Damn son. I don't often see a trip report worthy of a trip report (guilty myself), but this makes the cut. Strong work.

hm. that last photo looks a lot steeper than all the others. where is that?

those are some jealousy-inspiring sunrise pictures.

Trip: Mt. Hood - Old Chute Date: 2/19/2010 Trip Report: Doug E. Fresh and I climbed the South Side via the Old Chute last Friday morning. I've never climbed it in such nice conditions. You can find the full trip report here: http://sittingstone.wordpress.com/2010/02/23/hero-snow/ Gear Notes: Snowshoes for doug and skis for me. Ski crampons would have been nice, snowshoes weren't really needed. Axe and crampons was all that was needed. Approach Notes: Left T-Line at 3:30, summit @ 8:15, car by 10:00. Good skiing >8000'.

Looks like your weekend was a lot warmer than ours. Solid work.

that's a damn fine looking couloir

is this near salmon run?

whew that ice be lookin wet

whoops, ive been set straight about a portland slideshow, but a lecture at reed is still a good idea.

come to portland colin! also, you should let me know what your fees are like, as I think all of my nerdy, pale, cowardly classmates would do well to hear about something gnarly. finkp (at) reed.edu if you're interested.

The rap station I'm talking about is on what I think is called the west gable. There are two large rocks slung there, and we reslung the one that gives the best line for the rap. Where are the bolts? As to the dead guy, it and the water had the look of having spent a season in the snowpack, and I'm pretty sure we were the only ones up there that day. I'd never take a beer with an owner, but a homeless beer deserves a rescue.

Trip: Mt. Hood - Illumination Rock - E. Ridge of S. Chamber Date: 8/30/2009 Trip Report: I wrote a little post about a trip up the East Ridge of the South Chamber on I. Rock, which may be found here: http://sittingstone.wordpress.com/2009/08/30/pancake-breakfast/ To this I will just add for your edjumakashun some gear and approach notes. Gear Notes: Cams: BD .5, .75, 2, 4, medium metolius supercam Nuts: 6-7 various sizes, favoring large Runners: 2 alpine draws, 4 single length, 2 double length, 1 cordelette, 2 ~8ft bunny slings (serves also as spare tat) Replaced the tat on the first true rap station with some royal blue tape. Enjoy. Approach Notes: It's just a nice long 3 3/4 hour walk up. Cross the glacier high and the crevasses are obvious, crampons are optional but nice, and an axe is very nice in the deep scree. A trail runs beneath the lifts on the miracle mile, and then route-find up and left from the top of the lifts.

Very nice climb, and well done on the blazing pace. Maybe if you threw in some skis for approach and descent you might take a couple of hours off your time?

what exactly is going on in the second to last photo there? unique glissade technique?