The Cascade Kid

Two climbers crossing the Stuart Glacier on route to the Upper North Ridge of Mt Stuart, Cascades Range, WA. Climbers: Joel Reid, Trever Waage.

Where are you located?

Super solid. I am uniquely inspired, which is uncommon from TRs here. Well done, and be in touch when you get back. I owe ya

Trip: Mt Hood - Pearly Gates Left Date: 1/3/2013 Trip Report: Took a job up the Pearly Gates yesterday with a first-timer. I had been warned that snow conditions up high were "unconsolidated wallow-sugar". Though this was true is isolated locations, the route was overall in good condition. Up to the Hog's back, the snow surface was supportable sastrugi (on skis) which made for easy travel. The bergschrund is filled in and barely visible. We crossed the schrund on the hogsback and traversed over a rime bulge into the pearlies. The rightward option looked very chandeliered in that rime-ice kind of way so I opted for left. Some seriously western wallowing was required for 10-15' to reach the 12-15' of good 50 degree ice. The ice gradually turned over into easily booted snow to the summit. Descent down the old chute was spicy. For now, traversing further west than usual along the summit ridge will yield an easier descent than the steep rime stemming which was required on the usual chute. Above the hog'sback, the snow is 1-1.5' of unconsolidated snow which would be great skiing. Below, the snow is intermittently supportable wind board with some wind transported creaminess. See also a photo of current conditions on the Reid Glacier/Headwall/YR. Entering the Pearlies adjacent to the schrund Exiting the ice Top of Pearly Gates Left Traversing the Summit Ridge Reid Conditions Gear Notes: 7 mm cord, 1 screw, 1 picket. Placed a good screw and a shitty picket. Neither was necessary. Approach Notes: Skis. Fast and easy.

I like reading your posts, but since they seem to be solely about skiing, wouldn't they be better posted to turns all year or TGR?

petzl lynx. easily use both configurations and change the length of your points.

The full-blown season is so close it's tormenting.

11/22/12 - ZigZag Bowl and Environs - Thanksgiving 4-6" of consolidated powder on a supportable base. Underlying pack consists of rounds interspersed with minor crusts. Good riding on SE-SW aspects on sheltered terrain. Wind effect was widespread , especially on W'ly aspects. There was widespread evidence of prior loading due to West winds, though during the day the local winds were out of the East and were actively loading W'ly slopes near the ridgeline with thin, stubborn windboard. Sun came out around noon, warming surface snow and causing small point releases on the steepest E-facing terrain. The base is pretty well established with good coverage. Should be fun with more snow!

there ya go, your million dollar idea: bags woven of thin, conductive metal mesh to cage your electronics and prevent interference.

In winter, snow conditions are more meaningful to your safety. If you can't look at weather info, of which there is plenty, and decide whether or not it's a good day to be climbing, then you should wait for spring rather than let someone tell you. The S side route seems to turn off folks' decision making brains. You must cross slopes of greater than 30 degrees to summit, and you have to do so over a terrain trap. If this means something to you, and you're comfortable managing such hazards, then just brush up on your whiteout navigation and go for it. Climbing in winter is great because it actually feels like wilderness without so many people around. Also, you'll slog some more in softer snow, and it's a fair sight colder than it is in may. Best of luck. And maybe climb it with a friend the first time. Company is more fun when you're suffering.

Stories to be found here: Mountain Lessons -Your comments are always welcome- [img:center]http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4139/4755834093_287895e4b0_z.jpg[/img] With additional photographs here: Flickr - GoneMonk

I guess I've heard that people get all grumpy about that. Unless you're talking about the rock wall there... or you're trying to push some buttons :-)

The video seems to demonstrate with relative clarity that it will interfere with searching by generating a phantom signal with no consistent direction nor distance.

It's that pre-winter do-something-other-than-climb non-season, and I'm getting antsy. Does anyone know: Are there any known and accepted dry-tool/mixed crags either in the Columbia River Gorge or in the Mt Hood environs? If you have a less public location and would prefer a belay as an information trade, pm me.

Had I seen this, I'd gladly have been in. If it's not closely held information, where were you planning on going? P

Cliff notes from the video below: -A GoPro camera, when on, can interfere with avalanche beacons in search mode, causing false signal readings. This finding could possibly confuse and confound a search for a live burial. -The range of this interference is limited and varies by beacon model, however, it is sufficiently large that a helmet or chest mounted GoPro could interfere with the beacon of the person wearing that camera. -How the GoPro does or doesn't affect the transmit function is unknown. [video:youtube]

Solid work from a workin' man.

Trip: Mt. Stuart - Upper North Ridge w/Great Gendarme Date: 9/4/2012 Trip Report: [img:center]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8296/7964687736_d682221be7_c.jpg[/img] Pinky and the Brain headed to the upper north ridge of Mt Stuart a bit over a week ago. We approached via the South Side, which is a big bite of hiking, but for a fit party traveling with reasonable weight, it's entirely reasonable to plan to bivy on the ridge by sundown. [img:center]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8296/7948037420_32a4948aba_z.jpg[/img] Pretty psyched to have bivied and climbed behind Joel and Trevor...our pleasure gentlemen. And Allister and John (?) hope that you had a good climb, whatever your Plab B turned out to be. Small bits of beta: 1.The trail from Ingal's lake to Stuart Pass is faint. Have faith and it delivers. 2. Getting down from the moraine and onto the Stuart Glacier is nontrivial. Choose between steep and loose moraine junk or downclimbing stiff snow (probably ok if you actually brought boots, but in approach shoes+crampons, it's a less-than-ideal option) 3. There was water available below the big nunatak on the Stuart Glacier, even at 5pm 4. The transition from snow back onto rock in the 4th glass gully is steep, exposed water ice for a few feet. 5. IMO the climbing in the gully has a few steps of true 4th class. 6. No snow or water on the ridge. 7. On the descent, there's a lot of funny beta about getting around the false summit. Ignore becky, and head to the notch in the ridge that looks like the most obvious way. Go across the ridge above the humongous boulder and the passage goes at 3rd class. 8. Be on the lookout soon after that for the CC on your left for the descent. 9. Water was available in the CC at the top and near the bottom, should continue to be this way until the snow comes. For more photos, check out das flickr For a more subjective take on the climb see Mountain Lessons Gear Notes: Double rack 0.5"-3", 1 #4, single rack of nuts, no need for microcams/C3s, plenty o'slings, microtraxion for pack hauling / unapproved simul climbing protection.

Rodney, you're the man. Everyone else should get something to write about. All of this bickering about grades makes me want to put on a skirt and play hopscotch.

For Sale: lightly used (<7 days) Manaslu speedskins cut to shape by the factory for 178 cm manaslus. The glue is in great condition, as are the tip and tail hooks. Retails for $200 : http://www.backcountry.com/dynafit-ft-manaslu-speedskin I'll sell for $100 . Please email me at deepdrypowder @ gmail if you're interested. I live in SE Portland, and would be willing to come meet you somewhere if need be, or drop them off if you're sure that you want them. Cash only. ps. I'd venture a guess that they can be cut down to fit any of the other 178cm dynafit skis, and that they would fit on a pair of Stokes. You're welcome to check before you buy

that's some pretty new looking gear.

hey there poser. if you check out the link to my flickr, there's another one of you guys in there coming up behind us. It was good to meet you up there and figure out that last bit of the climb. -P

Trip: Mt. Hood - Reid Glacier Headwall Date: 4/17/2010 Trip Report: 4/17-4/18 A.Ragus and I set out to climb Leuthold's couloir, but ended up climbing the Reid Glacier Headwall. For a more lengthy and subjective report see: http://sittingstone.wordpress.com/2010/04/18/reaping-fears-crop/'>http://sittingstone.wordpress.com/2010/04/18/reaping-fears-crop/ We skied to Illumination Saddle, where we stashed skis and slept the night in an open bivy under clear skies with light wind. In the morning we left camp at 4am, right in front of a nice group that had come up behind us. Reaching the base of Leuthold's couloir, and never having been up there before, I led us a little bit too far right. The snow was perfect for kicking steps for the most part, and after several hundred feet of climbing, it became abundantly clear that we'd gone the way of the headwall. Things felt good so we chose to continue, lacking any beta (I like to think of it as a second first-ascent). We wove our way through the rime towers on mostly good and stable snow, with pockets of sugary slog here and there. The angle climbed to at most 50 degrees at points, but likely averaged around 40 degrees. Around 10250' there was an optional section of clear blue WI2-, a great pleasure. We joined forces around there with a group of two (one from PMR) to finish out the route, which proved tricky due to unconsolidated snow. A--- took care of it, stemming up a steep unconsolidated rime chimney, removing all thoughts of impossibility. We rendezvoued with those who had chosen the right way to leuthold's on the summit ridge, and an exposed traverse put us on top around 730am. A friendly descent west of the old chute took us around the hordes and down to Irock, where we grabbed the skis, broke camp, and descended on good snow above T-line, and absolutely crap snow under the lifts. We reached the lot around 1030. For more and larger images than are included below see: http://www.flickr.com/photos/gonemonk http://sittingstone.wordpress.com http://www.facebook.com/#!/album.php?aid=2049510&id=1156050005 Gear Notes: A--- used one axe, I used two tools. 30M 8mm dry cord for the glacier brought two pickets and one screw, used none. Approach Notes: Skis to I-rock. Roped for 2-man travel on the Reid, likely wasn't necessary. Didn't rope for the climb or descent.

So. Good.

Cute matching skis.