TwoFortyJeff

The rangers will make an exception for Depot Creek and issue you a permit for this one over the phone. Super easy and they were quite helpful as it encourages compliance.

I sent a message for some screws and the alpine and ice & mixed books.

I try not to go out in really bad weather, but I if I know the clouds will be coming and going, I will sometimes bring wands so I can find my way back down. For going up I use a map, compass, and altimeter. I'll mark waypoints on the map and write down what the bearing is. I use my altimeter to let me know when I reach a new waypoint on a line. It's not perfect, but it always works out.

Does anyone have any first hand experience with using this tent in the Cascades? I am looking to pick one up for winter ski trips (think snow dumps) and spring/summer volcano climbs in case the weather turns bad. I realize that it is small. I can live with that.

What size is the Speed 40? There should be a little tag somewhere. Probably where the should strap meets to lower pack.

Old #4 C4s are purple

Spend as much money as you can on a down bag that meets your needs. 12 years ago I was a college student but I scraped together a few hundred bucks to get a top of the line bag (on sale). It's the only piece of gear that was lasted over 10 years and I expect to get 10+ more out of it. Today the same bag would cost twice as much.

I can buy that. Backcountry created something of an online community and they are enjoying a lot of business. I would think the two are related. REI has said they want a strong web presence. Maybe they will find a way to incorporate the MP community into it. Very refreshing to hear that MP is being allowed to continue to do what they do.

That is quite an unexpected market for REI considering how their climbing aisle at many stores has been shrinking.

How were the bugs?

Do you recall if the north face of concord looked dry?

Whoops, I was thinking of Baker for some reason. Anyways, if you do the approach from the south, running shoes work great. Buying based on fit is the most important thing.

I just use running shoes for most approaches. I take boots if there will be any steep snow or glacier travel. For the North Ridge specifically I would do the entire thing in lightly insulated mountaineering boots. It's such a short approach that swapping out boots for shoes wouldn't gain much. Doing it in ski boots is common.

So there are some new bouldering routes on the ground now?

I was up there in September so I can't comment on current conditions. I forgot the exact mileage, but the road is closed at a major bridge about half way up. Bring a mountain bike for the long ride in. The road was in great condition.

That's a lot of Patagonia and Montbell for a student budget. I think that is too many layers for up top. You'll want a baselayer, a warmer midlayer (fleece), a hardshell, and a warm jacket. The windshirt and softshell are a bit redundant. I would go with: 1) Whatever zip neck midweight baselayer you can find on sale 2) Any lightweight fleece (think 100 wt or R1, etc). You can get these at thrift stores, Marshalls, TJMax, etc. Add a thick powerstretch balaclava and you have something cheaper and more versatile than an r1 hoody. 3) The First Ascent hardshells are a great value and always on sale. Try it on with your helmet. 4) Down jackets are also expensive. This is where I would spend most of my money (they last forever). The UL Down will not be warm enough unless the weather is just awesome. The Alpine Light is nice. A windshirt is nice if your hardshell is not breathable and the weather isn't too bad. Softshells are comfy, but too heavy for what you get. Pant layering is easy. Light softshell pants that cut the wind just a little, midweight baselayer, and a hardshell pant. It's nice to have full zips for the hardshell pants, but not necessary. The main thing that matters for boots is fit, so you're just going to have to try on every pair you can find. You can usually score used plastics on craigslist for next to nothing. Definitely get something insulated if you have cold feet.

Degres run pretty large in my opinion. I bought mine in my normal boot size and they are roomy even with the thickest socks I can find.

I am also amazed you were able to recover so well. Of course the worst part is that you will always have a decreased tolerance to cold. I frostnipped my finger tips years ago but the decreased tolerance to cold will never go away. My friends can ski in liner gloves while I have to have thick mittens with chemical handwarmer packs. I buy a few boxes of the handwarmers every year. Altimittens have insulation in both the shell and the liner. You can leave the liner at home and use a light glove instead. That way if you need to do something that requires more dexterity, you can remove the shell but still have a little insulation for a few minutes. Little things add up. ScaredSilly, what footbeds do you use? Do they make a difference in warmth?

I have no experience with the Epic, but I do have a Speed 40. I carried skis with it once and that was enough. The material can't stand up to ski edges and the frame is far too weak. I like it as a climbing pack as long as I keep the weight down. The active suspension also causes the pack to make some unexpected movements, but that might be personal preference. Load one up at REI and see how you like it.

I used to use a Gatorade bottle with a short piece of webbing duct taped to it. It was light and convenient, but it couldn't handle hot water from melting snow. I switched to a HDPE bottle with webbing and duct tape. It can handle hot temps, it's lighter than a normal Nalgene, and it's durable. For bulk water carrying, I use a Platypus 3L bag that gets buried in my pack.

Black Diamond Couloir harness, size S/M. I used it for two days of glacier slogging before I realized it's sized too large for me. Perfect condition. Includes the stuff sack. $35 shipped

When I first moved to WA, on of my friends advised me to always take the registration with me when I leave the car. I like the idea of blacking it out even more. I never understood leaving keys, wallets, and phones in the car also, but people seem to do it all the time.

The Kode packs are total shit. I have no experience with the Mutant. The Variant is nice, but heavier than anything I wish to carry.

I'm not sure when you are doing this, but I think the Ingalls TH has been closed since Monday due to fires. Might want to check on that just in case.

By climbing route, I assume you mean the West Ridge proper, so this has nothing to do with the anchors that the NPS removed on the rap route below the notch. Anyways, I was up there a few weeks ago and there was 4-5 piles of tat with rap rings at various points along the ridge. I think we used two or three of them for raps. On the descent below the notch, we passed quite a few rap stations on the rib and in the gully both to the climbers left of the snow finger.