keenwesh

I need your wisdom once more dane. I figured out that the Batura's fit me in size 48. super comfy! really like the integrated gaiter. I know they'll be great doing daytrips iceclimbing in bozeman and be warm in patagonia, but would they hold up in somewhere like little switzerland or on Huntington? the smaller (but by no means less difficult) peaks in the AK range. They kept me feet plenty toasty inside my house here at sea level in Olympia, but that obviously doesn't mean shit. ps do they climb better than the nepals?

would anything else be dry? psychowussy? bust the move? FALSE IDOL?

does the wall stay dry in the rain? its all overhanging... I'd like to go up on wednesday but it's 90% chance of rain

anyone know how dry WW1 is? I've heard that Chronic is dry to the 5th bolt or something like that, but alas, I can't even come close to climbing .13. Anything else dry?

dyneema is fine, it just wears out faster that nylon. I have a handful of dyneema slings I use when I go into the alpine and the rest are metolious nylon that'll last forever. I've never been but I assume most climbs at smith have chains for anchors, in that case you don't have to really worry about much, I just clip a draw to each bolt and clip the rope through the draws heres a pic I pulled off google. http://tawkroc.org/files/2010/06/focal-point-433x291.jpg as for a rope i wouldn't go thicker than 10.2.

try posting on the taco mark! a lot of socal climbers there

Thank you! that'd be great, I'll take you up on that! unfortunately I would feel really bad leaving my partner to sleep on the ground. Another kind soul has to be out there!

yup, exactly!

if all else fails I'd do that but I've always wanted to sleep on a ledge. plus I can't wait to haul 70 pounds worth of extra shit up that trail!

Mark and I climbed the first two pitches of the green dragon today. I'd love to go back and complete it but we're both so slow it would take us at least a day and a half to make it to the top. Are there any kind soul(s) out there with a ledge willing to lend it/them out? payment in beer.

have you ever climbed godzilla? it it completely impossible that that thing just happened to fall off. someone jacked it off and didn't even have the decency to shovel off the dirt. I'm kinda beating a dead horse here because that other thread on it went on for something like 7 pages but there is no doubt in my mind that the big 'ol block couldn't have gone without help.

just for clarification, the boulder is 30 feet off hwy 2 and the ground around it is very level, plus the stump is very much dead. No harm if it gets pulled out, and the chainsaw would be drowned out by the countless 18 wheelers and other car traffic blasting by a stones throw away. I still think it's good to check with the community before tearing shit up however, i.e. that fucker who jacked the block off on godzilla. That shit is not cool!

My buddy fractured his ankle yesterday at the Serene Boulder along hwy 2. Stump under a pad rolled his ankle in a big fall from the top of the V4 corner problem. The image of his foot all askew and his scream of pain has been seared into my brain. We all made errors as spotters and I wish we could go back and better protect him but I have a quick question for the community, if theres a stump or something in a landing, would it be overly detrimental to rip it out? I'm thinking bring a saw and ax and cut/chop it out. I hate tearing up vegetation for something as selfish as climbing a rock.

bump, I'm open to offers, someone with gigantor feet like me make one!

how do the baruntse's climb? I like that they're a double boot so I can curl up with the liners at night and dry them out, and I really like that they make them up to size 16. is there a marked difference in their performance compared to the nepals?

of july...

took these up chair peak twice last year, always worn in snow so sparkly new. Size 49 euro or 14 us $200 shipped OBO... I need a boot with a front toe welt. someone buy these bad boys!

the nepal evo, what about the extreme? In mountaineering boots I like to go slightly bigger because if theres not enough room in my boots my feet get cold and I get more blisters... they say they make size 49 and 50 by request for the nepal extreme. My patagonian aspirations? I'd like to get up Exocet, Marc is gunning for the west face of cerro torre but thats a little bold for me to declare. Canadian route or supercatalena on Fitz Roy. Poincenot. In AK I'd like to eventually do the Cassin

I need a boot with a toe welt, I want to get into mixed and hard ice. are the Baruntse's the way to go? I don't think I can pony up the dough for those and they seem to be overkill for my current needs...

oh, and I've got size 15 feet, so that severely restricts my options as far as different boots available to me

I've got a pair of Garmont Tower GTX's for ice climbing and the like. they're great in the cascades because they're light and warm enough, my question is, will they be too cold for ice climbing in bozeman? also they do not have toe welts so I have to get clip crampons for them (I'm about to purchase a set of cyborgs...) Is it worth it to pick up a pair of Baruntse's for the extra warmth and toe welt? I'll be going to patagonia next winter (I think the garmonts should be alright there) but I'm worried about the cold temps in bozeman and I'd like to eventually do some trips to Alaska, where I'll need a pair of warm boots. thoughts?

Trip: Leavenworth bouldering - Date: 3/4/2011 Trip Report: Thank god for teacher in service days. With the 3rd four day weekend in a row upon me I convinced my friends ian and joe to rally out to leavenworth for the day, the weather was kinda iffy but hey, we were going to be roadside bouldering, nbd... I got up at 5.40 and ian picked me up at 6.30, a quick detour to joes house to a part of tumwater neither of us had been too before and we were on the road. When we got to leavenworth we were surprised by the amount of snow on the ground, no matter, all the overhanging rock looked dry, we didn't need to top out on anything, it'd just be like climbing in the gym. we parked at Forestlands and postholed up to the boulders. I managed to get the V3 "arrested development" (minus the topout, it would have involved a scary beached whale into icy snow) 2nd go, not bad as I've only been training for a month! we then surprised ourselves by making very good progress on the V5 right variation to this problem, I'm going to get it next time! we worked the other V4's at lower before it started snowing and we headed up to upper forestland. played around and got increasingly cold for the long boot soaking posthole out. We then headed for swiftwater and the "footless traverse" such a fun problem! that loaf hold is so cool! we messed around with that, some really fun lockoff campusing and stuff, another one to go back too when the finish isn't glazed with verglas! Before making the long drive home we stopped at Curt Haire's house and had a really nice visit. I hadn't seen him since 8th grade or so so that was great. I hope I can get out with him before I leave for school at the end of the summer. Snoqualmie pass was slow and we saw at least 15 cars in the ditch. There was also a big wreck on northbound I-5 with one car on fire, I hope no one was hurt... Really great day out with fun friends. Gear Notes: 3 borrowed pads, hot hands! Approach Notes: posthole in cotton jeans, get real cold.

As I'm leaving for college away from the cascades at the end of august I'd like to make this summer count. I'm looking for a reliable partner to climb 5.10-11 routes in the greater enchantments area. The boving route on dragontail comes to mind and I'd also like to give gorillas in the mist a try. CBR, Solid gold, and the like. PM me

raindawg, your chest thumping "sportclimbing sucks!" banter is super fucking annoying. You aren't changing anyones mind. (and I'm sure I'm not changing yours) You don't have to take every opportunity you can to get your already widely known views out there. Sportclimbing is convenient, fun, and here to stay. stop whining. you're acting like a child.