keenwesh

the bugs during those raps are awesome. like really really tight.

yeah man, what a bummer...

you are tearing up index man! why not just start at the left side of the wall and free every route left to right!. I bet you could finish it before it starts raining in october...

you know what they say about climbing in the olympics, if you like a handhold take it home with you.

wouldn't you have to downclimb the friction pitch? I agree that the W ridge descent would be nicer but is there tat to rap off or do you have to downclimb everything? I did the W ridge a year ago and I don't remember seeing any webbing on route.

I'm sorry to say it but I really don't like the TC pros for cracks, maybe I need to break them in more? for crack nothing beats the mocasins, and the fact that you can pull them off quickly and easily at belays is super nice too. the TC pros are realy nice for edging and face but they just hurt to footjam in. I couldn't stay on the split pillar with them because it was too damn painfull, when I went up the next time marc did the left side so I didn't get to try the moccs on the same pitch but they felt much more secure and comfy in the hand through offwidth splitter section. (I aided the 12a thin part...)

quite a bit, after the last rap you have to traverse a steep snowfield all the way to the W ridge notch with intermittent exposed rocks along the way, also horrendous clouds of bugs getting blown up from the lake, teakettle or fryingpan or something like that? also theres a thank god snow patch after the first rap off the summit as you descend to the 2nd rap anchors.

dogs are aid.

I sense an impending shitstorm...

we didn't bring a watch so I don't know the specific time, but we left snow creek a little after 8 am and I had time to read all of 2001 before it got dark, we were not hiking super fast but I bet it took around 5 hours? in... as for the climb itself we were really slow, 4 or 5 hours on route maybe... my dad couldn't do it without me, he kept mumbeling "I'm too old for this..."!

Trip: Prusik Peak - Stanley-Bergner Date: 7/22/2010 Trip Report: Spent 3 days in the Enchantments, went in Snow Creek TH and spent a leisurely day hiking in to Temple Lake. I found a copy of 2001: a space Odyssey on the side of the trail above SCW when I stopped to look up at the Pressure chamber (that thing looks heinous!) I read the entire book that afternoon and evening, so intense! Temple lake The bugs were nonexistant the first night, but that didn't last long.They came out in full force for days 2 and 3, my arms and back are still swollen from bites! Day 2 we got up late and strolled up to the base of the S face I ran around the corner and looked up at Der Sportsman, someday! first pitch really fun climbing! with a short section of friendly offwidth to prep for what comes higher. I used the #4 a lot on this climb! the chockstone squeeze is really tight, but on the plus side the belay above it is nice and comfy, and provides a perfect viewing platform to watch your old dad squirm and cuss his way through. the squeeze chimney pitch blows if your 6'6" I got to the fixed pin and proceeded to aid thrutch my way up the last ~10-15 feet. maybe if your smaller you could do some heel toeing or something but I was just stuck. next time I do this route I'm bringing a really small partner who can fire the rope up there... getting stoked! Fun up to this point... getting harder... didn't get any pics of me deep in the slot cause I was shamelessly screaming "taaaakkkeee!!!" and obscenities. last pitch was fun on top and out of water plus the bugs had followed us up each pitch so getting gnawed on too!! Stoked! thanks dad for a great trip! Gear Notes: blue alien to #4 camalot, doubles from .75 to 2 C4. got a early birthday present of 2 offset TCU's, they worked pretty well up at the top pitch in the pinscars. Approach Notes: hike a long ways carrying both the rope and the rack while your dad puts along slowly behind, wait for him to catch up every few miles.

just kidding man, I'm not actually a D-bag. I'll be hiking by there tomorrow morning, if I decide to bust out orbit on my way to prusik I'll definately keep an eye out for it. hope you get it back!

ya...well not my problem!

I think that was meant to be sarcastic...

prepare for battle marc! CJB is on the attack!!!

it's 10d, I want to lead it but the fixed pin is missing up top and that bolt it one of the mankiest things ever, on par with the bolt on P2 of city park.

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2010/04/18/shake-weight-snl-video_n_541956.html classic!

mark, I'll lead! you practice your blockdoging skills and we'll make it for sure!

a 70m is the best thing ever at index.I'm trying to scrounge up funds for one as well.

that's a good article, index has a really interesting climbing history. anyone know who's working Amandla? I was there last saturday and there were hanging draws, didn't see anyone on it though.

I guess it's really not done often at all!

does this get done with any regular frequency? sounds like a classic hard route for washington but I've never heard of anyone doing it. does it have the sketch bolts that failed on calling wolfgang or something? I am nowhere near skilled enough to climb it I just want to hear some history!

I looked over at it from the W ridge last year I think. saw a single bolt with a bail biner on the face directly across from the 3rd gendarme on the W ridge.

the 9.7 comes in fluorescent yellow right? I've used it and it seemed pretty beefy while still light enough for comfort on hard climbing. I think that a ~9.8 mil rope is the perfect balance between lightness and durability. it's still kinda heavy for alpine but it's not quite the slug like the <10mil's I still say the 9.7, and if you want a true alpine rope get the mammut 9.2, a real skinny and light rope, the 8.9 is just too thin...

yo ivan, will you aid on the UTW with me? please dude. I want to climb the captain someday and I need a aid mentor who will let me use some of their gear and show me the ropes. I would just go solo stuff but I don't have ascenders or a massive amount of gear. (I do have a semi beefy free rack though). whadya say ivan? spend a day or 2 in late july helping a aid noob out?