keenwesh

do you have a pair of old (or new) nomics gathering dust in your gear bin? Thinking about selling them to someone who'll put them to good use? I am that someone. Message me and lets see if we can work something out.

if it's "around 8a" I doubt he could've bolted it on lead... hopefully he drilled from hooks. If he rap bolted it like he said he was going to do last year the community will (deservedly) beat him to death with pillowcases full of soap.

yeah fuk taxes man, your profile picture is totally not the most idiotic thing ever. I too believe that roads, public schools, police, firefighters, military, ect can just pay themselves.

I went climbing all day today and I come back to this! Am I right in my understanding that the belays on the compressor route are still in place? I also think that kruk and kennedy used some of the belays in their ascent. does anyone have any more info or we all just a bunch of speculators? BTW good looking one is in fantastic shape right now and about 200 lbs or loose rock are now gone from the bottom mixed section. ya'll are welcome.

stealing this point from someone on the taco, but did maestrati have permission to place them? come on dude it's for the better. plus, look at the new "standard route" http://pataclimb.com/climbingareas/chalten/torregroup/torre/ragni.html looks pretty fuckin classic to me.

Same here. Class V on the Guadalupe. Scared the shit out of me, but I didn't get religion over it. But I did become a nicer person for it. The guy a week after me wasn't as lucky... flush drowning or pin? either sucks, but I imagine a flush scenario would be semi infuriating. as things start to grey out thoughts turn from anger to just sorrowful remorse, at least they did for me.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1725375/Cerro-Torre-A-Mountain-Consecrated-The-Resurrection-of-th FIgured I could start another shit storm over here, why pass up a opportunity. gonna have to be honest, kinda mixed feelings about this. However when I make it down there there'll be no question about it now. gotta give the ragini route a try. discuss.

or like the baby that falls into the 5 gallon bucket with a splash of water at the bottom. no fun. drowning fucking sucks. I had a near miss whitewater kayaking, it's a experience I never want to have to go through again.

I loved main vein, something about being way up the side of the valley looking down below. wish the routes in hyalite were as long. ah who am I kidding, the routes in hyalite have a special aura of their own.

great TR, sounds like you had a fantastic day. that area around alpental is a wonderful escape from everyday life.

really good to know! thanks. Still If I go up and do it I'd want to do P4. looks like the best one of the route.

if you go for a weekend consider saving me a spot in the car. The ice in hyalite is fantastic as well. I always like climbing with washingtonians. ya'll seem to actually appreciate how good the routes are over here!

we looked at it, and then read the ice register. some dudes did it last week and said that P4 (crux) was brittle and not beaten out at all. hard and full value 5. High on boulder also looks incredible, if I can summon up the balls moonrise would be fantastic. da beast in question, mean green P4

I'm not offended! I appreciate what you threw in. Truthfully I thought the 5 mill was a little too thin for comfort the first couple times I weighted it. seemed to hold weight fine but just pulling the rope through it to rig the raps could burn the sheath. like I said next time I'll buy something beefier, the extra 10 cents a foot is worth the peace of mind.

agreed, we had 5 mil accessory cord that we used on this trip, I rapped first with a backup and then chris came after pulling it, next time I'll buy 5.5 spectra or something with a little more heft. However, if the ice is soft enough to be cut with cord of any diameter it wouldn't hold webbing either. I think someone (mike barter?) did tests on abalakovs and determined that even something like 2 inches of ice will hold more than body weight. All the threads chris and I made on this last trip were in ice that was not in sun and was dry. The 8 in rule you're talking about might hold true in WA slush but I was more than comfortable hanging off the v threads we made, probably around 5 in apart and 8 or 9 in deep. bomber.

tap the gas to regain traction or fucking freak out, slam the brakes and spin the wheel frantically. ideally lay on your horn too.

The valley in wyoming on hwy 120 right after the state line blew me away. It's so featureless that I couldn't tell if the mountains to the west were 3 or 30 miles away. Absolutely gorgeous country.

nope, first time there so we oriented ourselves with routes that are more manageable for punters like us. Temps on saturday and sunday were in the mid 40's, so routes in the sun were falling down, especially pillars. Monday it was cold and cloudy, and I think it's staying that way for most of the week, things should be fattening up. When are you coming out?

here's a picture of P1 of main vein, mushy unbonded slush with no pro. someone with bigger balls can lead it, or just wait for some cold cloudy conditions. looks super good.

posted a TR in case you don't know how to use the forum at all. might as well post a link while I'm at it http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1053294/TR_Cody_Broken_Hearts_Main_Vei#Post1053294 broke the rule someone laid down a while ago of posting non WA ice in the ice climbing forum but whatever, rules are made to be broken. Jens, I'm still waiting for you to tell me where to go besides hyalite from bozeman... don't leave me hanging

Trip: Cody - Broken Hearts, Main Vein Date: 1/14/2012 Trip Report: Spent the last 3 days in Cody. Chris and I scoped out the area and climbed a few stellar pitches, we can't wait to get back. South Fork Stoke Cody is a interesting town, there's a museum dedicated to buffalo bill, but more exciting, there are drive through liquor stores! We made it into the deer creek campground after dark on friday night and snagged a campsite. I fucked around setting up my tent while chris made dinner, safeway pasta was the theme here that would last for the next few days. We consulted the guidebook and decided that the first 4 pitches of broken hearts would make a perfect intro climb for the area. Woke up, drove down canyon, and hiked up the drainage. the first 2 pitches Chris midway up P1, which we linked with P2 After following we scrambled up to the base of the P3 amphitheater To our dismay P3 was completely and totally not in. here it is when we first looked at it, looking melty in the full sun and 45 deg. temps. and again a hour later. real melty... I looked up at the pitch to the left, figuring it might go somewhere. I led up it, finding virginal ice that dinnerplated fer dayz. Chris dodged most of it as I made it over the top and realized that there was nothing but choss above. He came up and we built a v thread, the first one either of us had made. metalthread We made it back to the car without enough daylight to do another climb but too much time on our hands to make dinner. we solved this dilemma by driving around the valley, figuring out where climbs were and getting ourselves oriented. Another dinner of pasta and the decision to do Main Vein the next day led us to pass out. Leaving the car at 9.30 on sunday The first pitch was not in, sun and heat left it looking along the same lines as P3 of broken hearts. fortunately P1 can be bypassed by some shitty lose screeclimbing. Ditching a pack under a boulder we soloed up easy ice steps for a ways. ~1000 feet Another short step Eventually reaching the base of the roped pitches. I took the lead The ice was chandeliered and hollow, the screws went into air. I was too distracted by the incredible gargoyle like ice formations to care much. A few hundred feet of scrambling brought us to the base of the 2 final pitches. Chris headed up the first I took the last one Chris had positioned the belay off to the side, unfortunately the last pitch climbed to the side as well. I did my best to keep the icefall down to a minimum but still managed to nail my belayer in the shoulder. To his credit I didn't hear about it until after I had brought him up and he told me. Ice threads on top and then bail back to the car Chris took a self pic with his good shoulder Monday morning it got fucking cold and snowed a few inches overnight. We had maybe half a gallon of water in all left over and it had frozen solid, as we were already dehydrated the decision to bail was an easy one. All the shit was packed up and thrown into the car and we drove back to Bozeman yeah fuck that shit. Gear Notes: screws, v thread cord. warm clothes. firewood, food Approach Notes: I found lightweight shoes were really nice to approach and deproach in.

yeah I've been up the east fork, it's grouped in with hyalite and is a nice place to go on icefest weekend. Didn't see a single person up there all day. Flanders is similar I think, although I have yet to climb anything in there. curious to hear how jens will back up his claim. hyalite is incredible, from the parking lot there are tons of stellar ice climbs, all within a hour or so of hiking. puts washington ice to shame.

I meant a half hour drive from bozeman. depending on how much stuff we climb I might post a TR.

excuse me, compared to my other options. What are my other options within half an hour?

what? dude you're a washington climber hating on hyalite? I must have misread your post... haha but please elaborate, why, as you are proclaiming, is hyalite a pile of shit?