RafalA

More: ropes show up in 1M lengths, showing only weight g/m.

One more thing: would be great to create your own 'database' within the database, so that I can just have a separate collection of everything I own, then just select the items into a 'pack' that I'm actually taking with me on a given trip.

Very cool idea. Guess I'll need to actually weigh all my stuff now! As others have pointed out, I'd like to see (more) user-verified weights. Also, it would be cool to have editable and multi-category tags, and be able to select multiple items. For example, the Arc Atom LT / SV / Kappa Hoody are listed under insulated jackets, so I can only select one. I typically take two of these with me, so one is left out from the calculator. Finally, and I can't quite sort this out, what is your end goal for this site? How will you maintain it? Ads? Membership fees? Keep us posted on the progress!

This is starting to sound like the fitness vs technique debate on Dane's blog. Yes, it can be done in wool and corduroys. But, also, yes, it will be more fun with the best there is. I've done both. I used to be a poor student with no money who used the cheapest gear I could find. I did some crazy shit back then. I still have the ex-military wool pants and boots, probably a sweater kicking around somewhere. Now I've got the latest and greatest, and it's just plain more fun. I don't get wet, sweaty or overheated. I don't worry about my clothing too much, as it just plain works. Wet snow, dry snow, wet ice, dry ice, I wear the same system of softshell and hardshell. I've a friend who's very 'Maritimes' - i.e. pretty damn old school. He prefers his wool sweater to a fleece / softshell top for climbing in, most of the time. Yet the pair of Arcteryx softshell pants he bought on my recommendation is, in his words, "the best $200 I've spent this season on climbing gear" (this was before he upgraded to Nomics, though). Buy the best you can afford (look for deals, though!). You won't regret it (probably).

From my observations, there is no quality or fit/finish difference in Arcteryx gear regardless of where its made.

In a word, yes. As others have said, the high-end stuff generally fits and performs better, and lasts longer. Except gloves. High-end, expensive gloves make no sense to me, unless you can get them cheap or equal to other gloves, in which case they tend to fit that little bit better.

Ok, so it is a clove hitch. Was wondering what that's doing on a screw :-)

Well, you're both posting so I guess it worked! :-)

Looks like good times on the Parkway!! Nice TR. 'Twas good to finally meet you in person, Dane, and a pleasure to be introduced to the good Dr. N. A few more photos on my blog: http://blog.rafalandronowski.com/?p=2911 One question, though: what the hell is going on with the rope in this picture?? http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7070/6934567087_263b58bd1d_b.jpg

Interesting read, but the tone is a bit too preachy for my taste. Cordellettes - there is a time and place for everything, sometimes they're useful, sometimes not. Rap rings - I have yet to meet a single person in the mountains with a rap ring, you southerners have some odd habits! :-) Daisy Chain - this is a piece of Aid gear, and should be used as such. PAS - to each their own, I find mine incredibly useful especially on "cragging days," not so much in the mountains. Perhaps we have a different definition of cragging. Quicklinks - for the weight and cost of a maillon, I bring one or two every time we head out sport climbing. I'd rather take that than a 'leaver' biner, as I try not to carry - or own - unnecessary gear. Bulk Webbing - wow, again, must be a southern thing. 6 or 7 mil cord will do anything you need it to. Lockers - again, different strokes for different folks. Carry as many as needed for the route...

You'll need the size large Silveretta's. My regular-sized 404's will fit a size 45 or so max.

Plum Guide is awesome. Light, mostly CNC'd aluminum, solid boot interface. No brakes, if you're into that. La Sportiva RT is lighter, and more expensive, still, though you can get brakes for them. Have unique toe-release for uphills. Don't know much about any of the others, just that they're heavier and have more plastic.

I've got one, a couple years old but it hasn't changed since afaik; fire away with any questions you may have. General observations: - the fit is relatively tight, i.e. it goes over layers but isn't as roomy as, say, the Kappa Hoody or Dually Parka. It's much more of a performance fit so would be much better for actual climbing in than either of those two. (5'11" 160lbs) - great belay jacket, though overkill with Pro Shell, I'd rather take something lighter that's just a nylon shell - totally windproof: every time I put this on I feel like I've just stepped into a tank (I mean it - this jacket feels absolutely bombproof!) - in the temperatures I use it (-25C and below), I don't have issues with lack of breathability as long as I'm layered properly. It's easy to overheat in if you use it in warm(ish) temps. (I've overheated in it walking the dog at -30C while wearing just a T-shirt underneath.) - dual-zipper, hem clip and long length mean this thing keeps your ass warm and your belay device visible - dual napoleon-style chest pockets are nice for storing random stuff, hand pockets are useless and inside mesh pockets are great for drying gloves, etc. For your use, I'd go with a layered approach (Atom LT, SV, etc.) - check out the parka purchase thread. Again, if you have specific questions, let me know, might be easier to get the info you want that way!

Just curious what it is you guys are climbing that a 40L pack is sufficient for 1 - 3 days? My 26L Warthog is stuffed to the gills for a one day alpine route, and that includes the rope under the lid and helmet on top. It mostly empties once climbing, but still... Heck, going for one day into the Headwall or Storm Creek (ski approach) and I can just fit everything into a 52L!

Higher alcohol and/or salt = less prone to freezing. Salted whisky, then? Thermos bottles can insulate both to keep warm and to stop from freezing... I've had water freeze in a Nalgene, yet stay liquid in a Thermos.

Yup, figure out your hood strategy beforehand, i.e. try it at home. Also, if you look carefully, you'll notice that some companies (I have mostly noticed this with Arcteryx) make their mid-layer hoods smaller, and their belay / outer parka hood bigger to fit over layers. Someone, somewhere, is thinking as we are.

Do they get the same weight of pillow? Or comparable in warmth? Will the down pillow be baffled? Otherwise all that wet down concentrated on one end is kind of unfair fight...

It seems Dane and I are coming to the same conclusions regarding winter climbing clothing: a lot of layers is good! I've been using a similar combo lately and it's superb: excellent mobility, light weight and extremely versatile: Atom LT Pullover / Atom SV Hoody / Alpha FL / Fission SV The Alpha FL is in there as a windblocking layer over the Atoms, neither of which is fully windproof. I take it off if I'm putting the Fission on for active use as that has it's own Gore-Tex layer, though this happens very rarely as I use it more as a belay jacket than activity piece (the thing is just too damn warm for regular use - I've worn it over a mid-weight base layer at -30 and have been perfectly warm!) The Atom LT p/o (60g) + Atom SV Hoody (100g) + Alpha FL as windblocker is a very, very warm combination, comparable to the Fission SV in my 'tests' (Fission SV is 200g Primaloft Sport torso, 133g P. Sport arms and hood, Gore-Tex Pro Shell outer). Very comparable in weight, too (+/- 1050g total for the three vs +/- 1000g for the Fission). Whatever Coreloft is, it's amazing. The stuff is incredibly breathable and staggeringly warm for its weight. And it compresses almost like down. I'd love to see a dual-layered belay-style parka using 100g Coreloft (or 100g + 140g Coreloft from the Kappa Hoody) to replaced the Dually.

I'd try to tape a tool to the cast...

I've been using this thing for two years, and other than the rubber protective cap coming loose and the exposed snagging stuff, it's been well worth the $10. http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Climbing/SnowIceHardware/LeashesAccessories/PRD~4003-682/glacier-plastics-abalakov-hooker.jsp

Have you looked at the cost of a sat phone? At least $500 for the phone + either a subscription plan or pre-paid card. 100/yr for a Spot is less than 9/month or 0.30 per day, more or less. Not sure how you find that hard to swallow.

Arcteryx B-360a. Light, small (for it's features), super comfy, lots of ice clipper slots, six gear loops. Expensive but worth it.

Mine swing both ways.

Guessing the spring got stuck or jumped out of its socket. Never seen or heard of this before.

In my experience, Arcteryx fix any and all issues with items sent in for warranty / repair. Most recently I send in a Gamma MX Hoody about a fraying hem drawcord and besides fixing that with a whole new laminated hem drawcord, they sewed up a couple of holes I didn't even know about! And all done in two weeks - faster than the local repair shop's turnaround.