t_rutl

16's are a great all-arounder...mix in a 22 for a bomber belay and/or v-threads and you'll be solid...my pref would be the BD's

depending on how long it takes you up the pyramid 10-12 hrs would be at an ok pace...a good friend and her hubby did in under 8 in late late season form...i think early sept...but they were hoofing it and in great shape the Sulfide should still be pretty tame good luck!

Hubba HP is 2lbs 9oz...freestanding double wall...redesigned and lighter than the full mesh Hubba! the vestibule does offer enough room for storage and cooking...i really like the tent and its big bro

nice route after a year long sabatical!

gad the easton looks like checking out at wal*mart... well done on the boulder tho

Trip: Eldorado Peak - East Ridge Date: 7/19/2009 Trip Report: With a decent forecast trucked up to Eldo to get out and play. Also attempted Klawatti but the moat's got things busted on the south and didn’t have the time to make a long rock ascent. Left the car Sat morn about 10:15 and were at camp on the ridge by 3:30 under blue skies found a bivy and set up shot in about 30 and decided to hit the summit. Just as we departed the "partly cloudy" in the forecast became whiteout but we trekked up anyway. Waited about 30 or so for a hopeful clearing but not getting one headed back. Met a cool party of 3 heading for Dorado Needle who also ran up Eldo in the clouds. Back at camp a couple of nice rangers swung by checking permits. After some chatting and dinner it was bedtime around 10. Up at 5:30 with clear skies again. After breakfast hoofed it across the Inspiration toward Klawatti. Ascended the steep snow on the south face as the 'schrund looked like it would go. After a couple hundred vert feet up got a good angle on the bridge and it was a no go and the moat was 15 across. Bummer... Well still having plenty of time and feeling good headed back under the scorching sun...melted water and hit Eldorado again under blue bird skies. Roomie had never been up before so glad he got to experience the aesthetic finish to a beautiful peak. Basked for a bit then headed out and into Marblemount for a giant buffalo cheese burger. Bivy Site Summit Whiteout Day Two Morning Glory Eldo form Klawatti Killer Summit Steps Aesthetic Second Time Up Still one of the best views in the Cascades Camp Boredom All in all everything is status quo up there. Bivy sites on the rock under the east ridge are plenty comfy and shielded. Good crampon conditions in the AM. Not needed by 9 or so. Killer steps up the summit. Both glaciers are quite tame. Running H2O at the base of Roush. Gear Notes: glacier gear, ice axe, crampons, pickets, iPod and SUNSCREEN Approach Notes: Snow starts above the boulder fields from hell just before crossing over to Roush. Solid boot pack.

MSR Hubba HP under 3 lbs with waterproof fly and vestibule http://www.cascadedesigns.com/msr/tents/fast-and-light-tents/hubba-hp/product

yeah you can pull it off just fine for most 3 season snow...wont be the warmest thing but i've loned mine up trips on Baker and Eldo...one in Aug the other in Sept and there were no real complaints

+1

30ft is kosher for your cascade travels...maybe a shy longer for rainier with some of those gapers...i do prefer coils on the ends for a canadian drop loop should a rescue be called for

for real? you crazy sob's amaze me every time...

get a hydration bladder with a lock on the bite vavle so you can keep it in the tent without at worry of putting pressue on it and soaking things...Platypus's are nice but prefer the MSR or Camlebak...larger opening is easier to fill and clean plus you can lock the bite valve

The attacker sort of reminds me of the kid from Superbad... McLovin!!

hellz yeah! where did your approx line top out? did you guys continue right or swing left to crest onto the plateau? glad to hear that route will still go.

I agree...Sahale would be a great choice for a first timer...I had never been but the Sahale Arm/Glacier route had a good rep for that...took a good buddy out who had never worn a pack before and he loved it and managed quite easily...Eldo would also be a fun one in August...Shuksan might be a bit more of an undertaking but good nonetheless anyway you go though enjoy!! what? you mean like this?? but i'll second that...the Easton is a fun one into August

thanks guys! it was a helluva trip out...i was definately feeling the day before but Matt's bionic Ouray calves kept us on pace for a great outing!!! few more pics: camp with alpenglow approaching the crux topping out the vert ice on the first pitch picks in for pitch #2 last steep bit before the plateau sweet waterfall on Heliotrope

a. crampons and axes are your call. most routes that cross snow slopes can be done without the 'pons but it can be a gamble where you may wish you really had them. CAMP and several others make a lightweight aluminium crampon that may be worth investing in. if you are very confident in your self arresting abilities with a trekking pole you can get away w/o an axe but it would have to be a personal choice...i would reccomend one tho...if even an ultra-light version (CAMP Corsica, ect). August's freezing level can hover around 8-9 thousand feet or shoot to 14 thousand. "generally" speaking you'll have a crust but not ice under 10k but that could change at a moments notice. as far as boots go...if ya got a stiff enough sole you could pull off crampons. Five Ten makes their Exum Guide Shoe which is money for what you're talking about. b. quite serious. would be a long day but you could hit Colchuck and Dragontail in one push...prob 12-14+ hrs??? mosquitos could be bad enough to eat you alive so come prepared!! c. others could comment better d. lots of good folks out here...maybe via this board or craigslist you could arrange a p/u?? plenty of places to rent cars hope you enjoy your trip out!!!

the boys at Second Ascent love them...they're a Raichle design so you cant really go wrong...reason they are lighter: more synthetic material and a carbon shank...might be a bit warm for summers in the Cascades but that can be alleviated with a change of socks...Altrec.com carries them and has a similar return policy to REI so if they fall apart in a season you can prob return them but knowing Mammut I doubt that will happen!

Alpine Ascents added some more dates... Rainier Dates Added Please note we have added 3 more dates to our Mt. Rainier 3-Day Climb of the Muir Route September 23-25, 25-27 , 27-29 http://www.alpineascents.com/rainier-climb-muir.asp

!!!

Trip: Mount Baker - North Ridge Date: 7/11/2009 Trip Report: With hopes of standing atop Alpamayo, Artesonraju, Cook, Ama Dablam and the likes over the next few seasons it was time to take on the alpine ice. While on an excursion to Ouray this past winter I ran into Matt Wade in the Ice Park who recently established Peak Mountain Guides (www.peakmountainguides.com). As we got to talking, come to find out he spends his summers guiding in the Cascades. We decided to connect while he was out here for a shot at Baker’s North Ridge as intro to steep, committing alpine ice routes. Done deal and set for mid-July. The plan was to bike Glacier Creek Road and camp at Merkwood Friday. Spend Saturday as a rest day/playing on the ice and move up onto the Coleman. Sunday would be our summit day then pack out Monday. As the forecast unfolded that sounded like a bad idea. We ended up biking Glacier Creek Road, lugging the packs up onto the Coleman and camping on the “Football Field” around 6,600’ all on Friday. Crashing at 10pm the alarm went off at 1:30 and shortly thereafter we were on our way. Camp Glacier Sunset Route finding across the Coleman proved to be trickier than anticipated. We approached the “Cutoff” as dawn approached. View back towards camp The ‘schrund was fairly established so Matt pitched a short run onto the slope above. After 800 or so vert feet up 45 degree slopes on good nevé things backed off a bit until reaching the crux onto the upper ice cap. After a short section of vertical ice Matt set a belay to attain the upper ridge which we ran out in two pitches on 50m rope. Once atop we short-roped up the slopes starting at 50 degrees easing back slightly until the final steep section crossing a sketchy bridge onto the summit plateau. All in all: 11 hrs on route to summit (includes more tricky route finding on the Coleman and an on route “new boot blues” foot patching session). We hoofed it down the Coleman/Demming to camp in just a shade over two hours and collapsed after a long day right after a long day all while running on next to no sleep. 5 Hour Energy and a fistful of Advil…the breakfast of champions!! Even though exhausting, our new itinerary proved worthwhile. The clouds, wind, rain, lightning and thunder moved in Sunday which would have kyboshed our summit attempt. As we rode down the 7 mile windy road it poured and we were soaked to the bone. Thankfully dry clothes were waiting. In summary: The Coleman is still in good shape but things are really starting to open up. The cutoff is still attainable and snow/ice conditions were close to ideal all the way up ridge. Crossing onto the summit plateau is still relatively straight forward but could change at a moments notice. Decent down the Coleman/Demming was cake compared to the North Ridge up. Bikes are by far the way to go and grab one of those child carrier trailers (brilliant Matt!!) for the packs. It was truly a wilderness experience. Didn’t see a soul but for two on Heliotrope on our way out. Will post some more shots from the other perspective as soon as I get them. Our approx. route as seen from camp...lower X marks the cutoff, upper marks the crux Gear Notes: Glacier gear, crampons, 2 tools, 8 screws (6 x 16cm, 2 x 22cm), 2 pickets, 50m x 8mm rope and bikes! Approach Notes: Bikes for Glacier Creek Road!! Heliotrope is in good shape. Things are snow free atop Hogsback. Plenty of running water.

Mammut Lucido TX1

Trip: Sahale Peak - Sahale Arm/Glacier Date: 7/4/2009 Trip Report: with a climbing partner just off PT for an ankle injury and a tenderfoot who's never worn a pack...due to it's rep for a moderate approach, great alpine views and straight forward snow and rock we decided to make a run up Sahale as a warm up for the roomie and intro for the newbie. plan was orginaly a day trip but decided to camp not knowing how both would take to the outing and to add to the experience...i'm a shutterbug so dont mind the pics left the trailhead around 4:30 Friday afternoon...new guy was huffing and puffing so didnt roll into camp until after 9...with clear skies and a near full moon it was gonna be good! route looks straight forward from the arm set up shop, ate, prepped for the morn and hit the sack about 11...alarm buzzed at 1:30 and after some breakfast we were off about an hour later...i'm glad we made it an overnighter...the pain in the ass slush was now cooled to perfect cramponing conditions...we cruised across the "glacier" and up to the summit rocks well before sunrise...spent a few waiting for it to lighten up a bit soaking in the pre-dawn glow then headed up...great frozen stairmaster steps from the previous postholers led us up without travail the rock was straight forward...opted for a more challenging line straight up the middle rather than attaining either ridge line...mostly class 4 with about three very short low-5th stints...stayed roped, simuled and slung a couple slings for the newbie's sake but he was a stud and did work...had the summit to ourselves an saw no others on route the on the summit for a glorious sunrise...does it get any better??!! roomie, me, newbie on a self timer shot good 'ol "Boston Peak" Glacier Peak & Rainier Baker, Shuksan, Eldo, Forbidden descent down the rocks was cake and the snow was still firm...even after spending an hour plus on the summit we were back to camp by 8:30 i think he's got a little captain in him? brazen little food thieves... then out for some whitewater rafting on the wenatchee with the girl! Gear Notes: crampons for early am cruising, axe for chasing marmots and making day hikers up cascade pass ask questions, iPod for the jog out, 30m glacier floss and a few slings/biners to give my buddy some confidence on his first shot out but you can easily get away w/o them Approach Notes: normal traffic up to cascade pass. small patch here and there but really is snow free up to the arm. running water just below the talus field climbing up to camp. good snow coverage right up to the summit rocks. i prefer a 2am start vs. sluff to the knees that and the solitude and sunrise cant be beat. pick a line up the rocks. some 3-4 lines...some 4 with fun little 5 moves...snow right now goes right up to the base of the good stuff...no scree...no talus

The Momentum comes in at 405g and my Arc'Teryx R320 at 320g so the weight difference is negledgable as far as i'm concerned...to be honest i bought it because i'm a gear whore and it was one of the coolest new things that came out it is quite comfortable and does not dig in...the momentum is super comfy as well...also it requires you to double back on both the waist and leg loops...the R320 has fixed legs and an auto double back on the waist I dont think anybody can go wrong buying the Momentum...especially at $55!!

like most said you should be just fine...if you feel the need to upgrade but trips will be few and far inbetween just rent a 4 season