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justinp

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Everything posted by justinp

  1. No major falls, all slings are in good shape. Does NOT come with biners. This would be a good set for someone just building a beginner trad rack. I would keep them, as they were intended to be my aid cams. I just have too many cams (starting to feel like Bill Coe at the start of his gear whoring addiction ). Plus I tend to perfer aliens and tcu's for aid.... I am in Eugene, Or
  2. Need to fund a trip to somewhere warm this winter Unloading the dust collecting stuff. Metolius Cams #00 and #0 tcu, #1 through #8 power cams. All in good to great condition. Prefer $200 for 10 cams, but may split at $25 per cam. Bosh Rotary Hammer new $350. Story with this is I got too many friends with drills to have this one laying around.... Pre anodized BD stoppers #1 through #14 fair condition $50 I am far too lazy to put up pics so if you just can’t by something without seeing a pic holler. Buyer pays shipping.
  3. Kirk and I climbed NW Passage last weekend. Very Nice While doing some research, I noticed Ivan’s pics of the route have disappeared. Figured I’d add some for future aspiring aiders. P1 Look down as you make the passage Looking up P2 & P3 (note pin and hanging belay for P3) Looking down P2 P3 Airy P3 Jug Recommended Rack 18 ish draws Double set of offset nuts (big to mid brass size) Set of cams #00 to 1 inch Set of offset aliens Couple Hooks Belay Chair
  4. Kirk is just very sensitive about the size and girth of our mountains
  5. The clayball factor seems to be quite high. Nothing like trying to walk with six inches of mud on your boots. I’ve just recently been turned onto the place… but suspect the north end trail firms right up come springish. Speaking of TC anyone notice the pic of the “northern Idaho local” in the recent rock & ice climbing at Trout Creek, Idaho? Steve ur a crusher
  6. If you can get some clear or mostly clear days the Main Wall is downright enjoyable. The best strategy is to leave camp around 11 (with rope gun if you’re not one) and hit the main wall just as it comes into the sun then climb until sunset. This strategy yields around four hours of climbing so bring a book, pole or a bottle of whiskey to pass the other time. At this time of year the direct approach to the north end sucks due to saturated clayey soils, so it’s best to take the normal approach described on p 9 of Jeff Wenger’s guide. Be careful walking around the base as it is very dangerous if there is any snow (see p 8).
  7. Sorry Scott just can’t resist. Plus I could use the laugh Not sure what I’m showing Kenny here, but he seems to like it
  8. Mmm may be looking for my own ice gun, but the 26-1
  9. word Joe - Locally a good place to start may be to talk with Josh Norris at the OSU Outdoor Rec Program. Another avenue for advice round here may be to talk with Tyler Adams (corvallisclimb) or Paul Water (checat) they have both done guiding in the past. Best of luck .
  10. if we are talking vancouver WA. I will take the offset aliens and can pick up.
  11. Bring ur aid gear and go to Beacon
  12. Not sure about the conditions, but temps look better for the Alpental area. However, given that just about everyone from Washington is heading mcuh farther east I’d suspect it’s still a bit out. I’m with you though.... I’m going to climb the bell tower if I don’t get out of Eugene soon
  13. Word. I bought a pair of almost new scarpa omegas from whittaker mountaineering for $125 last month.
  14. take the knot on the inside of the hook out and get some thinner webbing and ur in business
  15. seems like a good price given a new engine. I love my 85 weekender, but paid almost double that. These are great rigs for climbers, aside from being constantly worried the man may pull you over at any moment.
  16. Anyone been up there in late Nov? I suspect the little bit of ice is well under the snow now. Trying to get a fix while I'm up there for T-day. Done this jaunt a few times, so suggestions on another one day objective? My guess is the weather gods will not allow an attempt on Rainier.
  17. I hear as long as ya don't threaten to kick anyones ass ya can't get kicked off the island Nate let's see a Tofurky day TR from yah for Astroman
  18. Nice Steve figured that was ur turf. I heart stemboxes they make me happy
  19. Looks like a kooler version of the columns in Eugene (also alot of rope soloing there). If you are stoked on that Bryan you should really be my rope gun at Trout Creek when in warms back up.
  20. So in a day we can get four pages worth of crap abouz a single poster that may or may not be a douche bag, but the peanut gallery doesn’t want to talk about big wallin in the valley in the winter. WTF? This site is lame, I say lets burn that fawker down
  21. Nice! Congrats on a lot in a stellar location. I contemplated heading down to the Callahans Saturday when the rain foiled my plans in the McKenzie…. I just could not bring myself to drive clear down there and find wet sandstone. Suppose It’d be nice to have a local to give the go no go down there this winter
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