davidk

I wait for the "belay on" call from the leader - otherwise I don't know if I'm safe if I tear down my anchor. However, if I'm belaying from a really spacious ledge, I might break down the anchor as soon as I hear "off belay," but only if I'm comfortable with being unanchored given the situation at hand. This is something to discuss with your leader, not just the peanut gallery here. Some people might have different sequences for when they yell off-belay in relation to when they build an anchor, and you and your partner should know this before the leader sets off.

I think this beats the time Kevino had to use his nut tool as a utensil. Resume shoveling!

bare steel cable will eventually abrade a sling. This is why we use biners to clip a sling to a nut, hex, or any cabled pro. This is also why cams have plastic tubing covering the cable clip-in loop.

Wow, that's very impressive. I like the super-gutsy move at 1:58, when she slides headfirst down the pole and catches herself in complete control about foot from the floor. Probably - I can't even come close to a front (or back!?!) lever

Sweet! Love that last panorama.

Nice TR, beautiful weekend to get out. and thanks to you for passing on the beta!

add Metolius Master Cams to your list. My small-cam rack consists of #2-4 Metolius TCU's and #1-4 Master Cams. I always grab the Masters first, and have been quite pleased with their performance. Like Aliens, but with a stiffer stem and better thumb loop, and a bit cheaper. TCUs have their place too, but I almost never place the #4 (red one) because it tends to walk and rotate a lot unless the crack really restricts its movement. And that's where TCUs shine: pockets and non-parallel cracks because the geometry of 3 cam lobes accommodates more surrounding curvature than 4 lobes. Aliens are great, and have a super solid feel when you place them. I would own a set, but I got a better deal on Metolius cams when I was piecing together my rack.

thanks for this outstanding contribution! Welcome to CC.com

I have found those routes to be dry after one nice day following a week of rain. Enjoy!

(From blog) descent was 20 raps, made by pulling rope directly through ice v-threads, plus downclimbing Impressive LNT! I didn't know that method worked, but 20 raps sure is a lot of proof.

Way cool guys! Me too

As for packs, my feeling is simplicity matters more than lightweight materials, ie. a pack with the bare minimum features (but still all that's necessary) and minimal seams, built with middle-of-the-road fabrics in terms of weight and durability, will still be an acceptably light pack.

I would say that the super light fabric/synthetic alpine boots have actually lived up to their hype. Everyone knows the immense benefit of significantly lighter footwear when it comes to covering lots of ground, and I have had good experience with durability with my Scarpa Charmoz pair. Two years of hard use, going into their third year and they still don't need a resole, the GTX still works, and the fabric is holding strong. And they've seen plenty of brush, water, mud, ice, granite, talus, and scree. If I notice the fabric fuzzing out after a trip, or a slash in the rand, etc. I just apply a bit of Seam Grip to prevent failure.

Prius has industry leading blind-spots that I was annoyed by after riding in one for a day

guidebook is "Butte's Climbing Guide" by Dwight Bishop. it says there is a spring near an old cabin by the wedge

climbed there once last August, so I don't know about this time of year. There is a sizable stream that the approach follows for a mile or so from the parking lot, but there isn't water available right near the wedge. I found the "Butte Climbing Guide" to be a good guidebook for the area - I'll double check on the title and author, and any other pertinent info.

kevin, not only did you have the spare time, but you're pretty good at this street math. I'm calling the gang unit!

Then don't climb there. If you seek a pristine, bolt-free crag at which to practice purist trad ethics, why are you even climbing at Vantage? At a place where bolting is so common, what I find disgraceful is people who remove hangers or chop useful bolts. There are many good reasons to install anchor bolts at the tops of trad routes at Vantage: it removes the need to top out the climb, thereby avoiding potential rockfall onto the hoardes waiting below; it speeds up the party turnover on routes; people don't need to worry about leaving gear and coming back later only to find it stolen; etc, etc. On a recent outing at Vantage, I topped out after a trad lead only to find that the "anchors at top" noted in the guidebook had been chopped. Not a big deal as I happened to have the right size pro left to build an anchor and bring up my buddy. What irritated me was that just two columns over was a pair of not-brand-new anchor bolts at the top of another crack that hadn't been chopped. And in the other direction, a couple columns away, was a pair of anchor bolts where 1 bolt was chopped and the other still there. Why the selective, inconsistent nature of this absurdity? My partner was Kevino, and the previous day I lead the climb that is the subject of this post. And I sure appreciated the hangers and webbing that he had installed.

I think it really is in everyone's best interest to avoid these routes and the nesting falcons. Along with all the obvious eco reasons, consider that a surprise dive-bombing falcon just might cause you to take the whipper of a lifetime. Hell, I decked on a hiking trail when I was double-teamed by a pair of angry, nesting NZ falcons. They mean business! And they might cause your pants to look like that toilet.

I second the recommendation for the Sabretooths. Great all-around crampon. You might not need the extender bar though. I use mine (semi-auto binding) on two pairs of size 47 (roughly US 13) Scarpas, the Charmoz and Phantom Lites, and still have a couple notches to spare on the center bar. Check fit on your boots before spending extra on the extender bars.

Used Black Diamond Cobra ice tools: two hammers, adze, android leashes (installed), lock-down leashes, and two used spare picks. Picks currently on tools are slightly dull from this season, but have tons of life left. I replaced the grips this season as the original rubber ones were coming unglued and packing up with snow. Asking $250 for the whole kit, Paypal or cash with local pickup (Seattle or Eastside, I'm in Redmond). Shipping is extra. Contact me at kiehld@msn.com.

it looks like you want to purchase one, but FYI anyways, I was looking to rent one for a non-climbing project but had no luck. Buying/borrowing seems to be the way to go.

The upper couloir does look very loaded! Thanks for the conditions info. Glad you were able to get some turns during that beautiful weekend!

Which Sportiva boot are you talking about? If you're referring to the Trango S Evo GTX, the comparable Scarpa boot is the Charmoz GTX. If you're referring to the Nepal Evo, then the comparable Scarpa is the Freney XT. I have been very pleased with my pair of Charmoz boots for a couple years of hard use for rough off trail hiking and alpine climbing. I got a pair of their Phantom Lites this winter, and am very impressed so far (only used them for ice cragging, no alpine routes yet). They share a very similar (if not identical) sole system, but are probably a bit warmer and have the integrated gaitor.

they often go for 20% off during REI's spring anniversary sale, which is in May (I think)