stevetimetravlr

Nice photos Ivan. Where did the rope stick, on the Kor roof?

I've always looked at crags as training grounds for the real thing, that place Ivan went to.

I don't think the trad lines at Ozone have ever been very clean. With a few exceptions like that short 5.8 finger crack and some of the mixed routes. Correct me if Im wrong...

lets not argue and bicker about who killed who....

The Land Lord has spoken.....chop, chop, whiz, whiz, oh what a relief it is..... yeah sure you're in Maui Joseph, I've never seen you with a tan, in fact I always thought you were a cave dwelling albino creature that lived in the tunnel near the base of Free for All? actually I don't know why I am posting this, I have never been to The Far Side, Im always on the Near Side, its cleaner and better bolted...hey, just trying to make light of the situation. Sounds like Kev has a valid point, and Bill has a valid point and its to bad they didn't discuss this before it all went down. Now Bills favorite route will get chopped and then there will be a fist fight, and Bill's to old for that crap, so he'll use his rock hammer, Kev will sue, they'll close the place. Can't we all just get along and discuss this before beforehand? All we need is love....remember?

Whoa, heavy. Some places, the bolts chop themselves. Just saying, this sounds like one of those places.

The Soloist scares me. It is so easy to slip or bust a hold and as you go down your foot slides behind the rope and you get flipped over backwards and end up hanging upside down looking at the ground. I have had it happen a few times to me and never did I think it was going to happen until it did as always try to keep my feet clear of the rope. If you had a soloist, you wouldn't be looking at the ground, you'd be on it. Silent Partner rocks! That said, I have never used a Soloist for top roping. With the mini Trax, I don't use a chest harness, I just take a double length runner and cross it and then put both arms thru it and put it over my head behind my back and then clip it in front, works awesome for clipping your belay device to keep it feeding well when soloing.

I was climbing with Big Wall Rick yesterday and he was bemoaning the fact that Beacon is really our only proper multipitch and wall training venue in the Portland area and that summer is half over when it opens. It really seems like the powers that be could keep open the Young Warriors side of Beacon and have everyone happy and SAFE with no affect on the peregrines.

yeah, you can use the Silent partner for top rope soloing but it sucks compared to the mini trax.

The dual mini trax is for TOP ROPE soloing, while the Silent partner or the Soloist is for LEAD CLIMB soloing.

I thought he was more like this guy... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w7hx3SKxsac&feature=related

yeah, we're all communists now, the Russkies are all democratic and free, and the Chinese are the top capitalist pigs in the world. What cha going to do?

If you had a CO2 BB pistol would you have used it? If so, then that will make a fine addition to your rack next time.

You have lots of time to heal before southside Beacon opens Kenny, so no hurry. Heck of a fall on trad gear. Next time you'll place that #3 with confidence and memories.....Way to be going for it.

diorite is what you are talking about I believe.

The only information I have is off the internet which shows they closed it during that time period last year. I assume they may do the same this year if the falcons return to their nest? if you have more detailed information, feel free to share it.

I think Snow Creek Wall closes April 1 thru July for raptor nesting, so you got 2 weeks or wait for summer.

I'm not telling you to jam it, but I myself really enjoy firing in some locker finger or hand jams. Give me a splitter anyday I say!

One time I didn't tape my hands to do Blownout, so part way up I started laybacking as it hurt so much. I was so "blownout" by the time I topped out I thought i was going to puke. Laybacking Blwonout=not fun, jamming Blownout=very very nice. Your favorite climb Joseph, Free for All, you jam when you climb it correct? what do you have against jamming? Did someone jam you in a corner as a child, whats up with that? If you don't jam, then we are going to have to start calling you a "Sport Climber".

thats wierd. How do you climb it without the crack? Ive never noticed an abundance of face holds thru that section and its a great little splitter that eats gear.

I don't know, climbing on scary flakes is not MY favorite thing and clipping that bolt way off to the side before you get to the flakes is awkward. I like the second part of the second pitch where as soon as you get a jam in the crack above the bhole you're golden because those are some sweet jams up thru there. and then its time to break out the stoppers...

Theres nothing wrong with the first pitch of Young Warriors, its that second scabby pitch I personally don't like but the upper pitches more then make up for it. I think Windsurfer, Dods, Dastardly linkup is the best line on Beacon that I can think of.

I thought Slesse

Way to go get it and get it done!! Yeah! Temps on Hood have dropped dramatically in the last few hours, its 10 degrees at 6500 ft level as of 8 pm, and the winds are up also. Artic storm coming in! Winter returns for the moment it seems, they are calling for heavy snowfall tomorrow thru Wednesday.

sweet