marc_leclerc

Very weird how he saw a bright light as he died... a truly sad account

damn good partner to run underneath a falling climber and break his fall with your body

I solo easy stuff... 5.6 around Its a lot of fun

the pics are up now

the pocket glacier is still sending loads of ice and crap down the approach and as you can see in the pic theres a lot of snow on the bivi ledges.. otherwise it looks pretty dry

Trip: Crossover Peak - East Summit - Southeast Ridge Date: 6/15/2008 Trip Report: After bailing from Hozameen because of lots of snow on the trail and a super late start nine other BCMC members and myself decided to camp in Chilliwack, picking up my rock gear on the way, and climb crossover on Sunday. We were going to camp at thr riverside campground at the start of Nesakwatch road but Jos offered to let us camp behind his house when we called to invite him along (he ended up going to vancouver intead though) After a late night chatting and hanging out we all got up at 5:00 and headed out. We drove up Nesakwatch creek to about 10 min from the Slesse Memorial Trailhead and started off. The trail was pretty nice, without too much brush on the old road, and we got the group up to the plaque in about an hour. From the memorial plaque we headed down accross the creek and started bushwacking up the old growth towards Crossover's East Peak. As we climbed the snow got less patchy and much nicer until we finally broke out of the treeas onto the neverending snowlope below crossover. We kicked steps up and over several bumps and our goal slowly got closer and closer until, after a bit of a slog, we were all at the base of the route! yay! We decided to split into two rope teams and we would all simul-climb the entire route. I grabbed the small rack and started leading up the ridge. The climbing was a lot like North Nesakwatch Spire but more fun and continous.. less walking and boring stuff. The ridge got steeper as we continued and the climbing got even more fun. I could have climbed easy ramps right of the crest but I took a direct and exposed route up the crest, placing pro every 50-75 ft.. sometimes I didnt place anything for a really long time but the climbing was easy and fun. The group moved really quickly up the ridge and I soon found myself finding a way around the big summit block. I walked around and pulled my self on top of the block and the team all took turns standing on the summit. The register showed that the peak was not oft' ascended and only a few parties had been up there. After descending down the west ridge and rapping back onto the snow the party split up. Me and four other climbers started traversing the steep snowslopes over to the west peak of Crossover. One of the four climbers turned back as the climbing looked fairly steep and we weren't planning on roping up. We climbed a steep gulley up towards the ridge but the rock wasnt great, it was a bit late and we didnt feel like downclimbing much so we sdescended back to the snow and glissaded/ran all the way down to the forest. A quick downhill bushwack brought us back to the road/trail and we eventually were back at the cars at the base. The entire trip took about 10 hours with the group and the climb was a great start to the alpine rock season. Plus I got to get a good look at one of my next goals.... Slesse's famous North East Butress. Over all the route was an enjoyable and easy route, a lot of fun, and is located in an amazing area. All the gear you need is a few cams to hand size, a few runners and maybe 5 mid-large stoppers ... the climbing is quite easy and any challenges can be bypassed on the right. I would solo it for sure... Slogging up snowslopes to our goal Climbing up with Crossover in sight Our route is right in the middle of the mountain, facing the camera Looking down to Nesakwatch Creek Nearly at the base of the route Getting onto the ridge Me getting ready to lead up the ridge Climbing the ridge, I can be seen up the ridge on the crest Typical climbing, somewhat steep, low-5th class Me on the summit in the yellow helmet, Lief beside me also on the peak Me on top of Crossover East Peak Me and Dan on the summit West Peak of Crossover, we climbed the obvious snow gully and the rock for a while before turning around. Traversing snow Me and Slesse

I took my ice axes and randomly started climbing a telephone pole in town... the cops came and arrested me,

ouch! thanks for sharing...

Im in a similar position as Braydon, I am working evenings but I will be free to climb lots around CHilliwack and maybe Squamish a few times. I lead trad to 5.10+ and I sport climb around 5.12a/b I know nothing about glacier travel but im confortable on steep snow and ice WI4+

Ive heard everything there is 5.? my ass...

I like singing 'come on feel the noize' 'rock you like a hurricane' when im on cliffs but the all time panic song for me is 'you shook me all night long'

that made my day... im going to put a banana in my ear to forget exams tomorrow

carpet

What is bought by the yard and worn by the foot?

Escalator was very close... the answer is stairs

What goes up and down at the same time? Figure that one out.. its easier

.... hmmmmmm.. this is tricky... a hint? is it something gross and sick (i.e meant to be funny) or is it a real riddle?

my friend has a funny first lead fall.. he was laybacking a crack and arguing that it was easier than jamming, i then told him his leg was on the wrong side of the rope and he argued about that too. I noticed he was starting to pump and struggle and I laughed at him for laybacking and making it harder, then he fell off. His leg was on the wrong side and he flipped over and bounced down the dihedral a few times and came to a stop 15 ft above me. He finished the route by jamming, lol

I think someone should solo this route.... barefoot, that would be cool.

sorry, chipmunks dont quite match Steven Tyler lol.... he could probably match their pitch though!

stfu or say something that doesnt make me sleepy

-twbQt-w93Q&feature=related practice falls are gay.... dont do them, they can be dangerous and nobody wants to look this silly^

I agree that practice falls are utterly useless.. if you must fall to overcome some fear just jump on a really hard climb, push yourself and fall off naturally... then you get something from it

The people to be afraid of are the guys who are the typical '5.12 in the gym' climbers. I used to be like that and me and my friends thaought we would be doing favoursr by bolting all the classic trad routes and grid bolting every rock we could find. luckily I was too poor to actually do this.. phew!

Most inverted falls occur when people are climbing so hard that they cant think about what will happen when they fall... it shouldnt happen and it sucks ass bit shit happens man! My inverted fall was on a 5.12+ and I was trying to clip of a terrible crimp.. when my hand blew off all the slack i had pulled to clip went through my leg. That stuff doesnt happen as much on bigger routes and trad climbs but on tought sport climb stuff like that happens to experienced climbers and noobs alike.. 5_cfMSG43tU My fall was alot like this one^ and he is one of the best climbers alive... shit happens!