marc_leclerc

Here's some unsolicited advice: Dont' be a dumbass and give a shit about armchair quarterbacks bitching at you because you did it your own way instead of following the exact intructions in 'the book'.

Pretty much... they didn't do it in perfect, north-american, wear the most high tech gear fashion. Sort of how I always get bashed b/c i wear jeans to the crag sometimes....

There's been a good deal of trail clearing and cleaning happening at the Harrison Bluffs. Here's a quick update: Trail to the 'East Wall' and East Wall boulders is clear with a couple minor trees on the trail. Trail to the Falcons Crest Wall is clear, just follow markers over the top of 'Crystal Ether', switchback up the ledges and follow ledge west to the base of the climbs. Trail to 'Up to Here' is now clear, before followign the last ledge to the Falcons Crest Wall go up the slab (pink rope) and traverse ledge East to the very end, flex up another fixed line and follow the trail up the gulley to the wall. To get to the top of 'Tubby and His Pal' and the top of the 'Change Room' wall follow a trail branching right out of the gulley just past the fixed rope on the 'Up to Here' trail. Route Updates: From the Ground Up - Crystal Ether needs a post-winter scrub but isn't overgrown. Face climbs right of Crystal Ether are clean. Climbs out of the cave left of Great Expectations need 10 min scrub to get pine needles off. Great Expectations & Exacerbation are clean. Pig Pen, Sleeping Princess & Kids and Old Guys are clean. New slab climb right of Kids and Old Guys is clean. Wayback Layback and Crack of Dawn are both clean. Tree Frog is clean Stained Walls - Bigfoot is clean Get there from Here has a fixed rope now. April Fool is clean but is wet until late spring usually. Tubby & his Pal is clean with a trail cleared from the top of Bigfoot to the base of the route. Change Room- Friction Addiction is clean East Wall- Fire Fox is clean but a quick scrub to get rid of some pine needles might be nice. All other climbs need work, especially at 'Up to Here' the 'Change Room' and the 'East Wall'.

I pulled another one out of my back after cleaning at Harrison Bluffs again.... but the route i cleaned is so sick its definitely worht it

Shining Wall of Gash IV

If he sent Chair then VP is obviously too chickenshit for him.

Tis the season... climbing up in canada I just got three bites in a one day

I didnt notice at first... wow!

I agree with what Don said and I would like to add something. I see a lot of climbers build V-Threads, thread their cord and rappel without sawing the cord against the back of the V-Thread to dull the corner of the tunnel the cord runs over. This is really sharp when the V-Thread is built, I think if someone built an 'A' Thread and didn't take any time to dull the corner of the tunnel and rapped with all the pressure pulling a 5/6mm cord againt that edge bad things could happen.

After a hike at the Harrison Bluffs today I pulled two out of my back and one out of my foot. Take all the cautionary steps when heading out into the woods right now, and check yourself when you get back. Watch out for those areas with dry deadfall that you have to walk through.... check this out for more info: http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/tickbites.html

Curtain call looks SICK!

One time I lost an ice tool on a trip up to the Icefields. We had some paranoid delusion that some kid whom we had given a ride into Canmore stole it, but I think it just fell out of the car. I've taken off on lead a few times and gotten pretty far up the pitch before I realized I forgot the rack. Brilliant. Biggest mistake I once made was starting a pitch and then realizing I hadn't removed the caps off my screws. I had to pull them all off with my teeth.

Yes, I left a tool at a rap station. Plenty of people have made that mistake, Robert Nugent did that a couple years ago, try to tell me that he isn't experienced, Geez. Experience and 'knowig what you are doing' are not the same thing. When I was retrieving my tool did I not see you place like 14 screws in a pitch on the WI3- pitch BTW? After you drew a picture of a dude fucking a sheep on the back of our truck? Not to confuse age with maturity.....

Fred and Helmy Beckey spent a month in the Waddington range, ending with the second ascent of Waddington via the South Face when they were 19 and 16 respectively.

In your opinion. why don't you think a 16 year old climber can know what they're doing? Why don't you come up here, climb with me for a couple days and then tell me that to my face.

she is hot

sorry, I will stop being the idiot

yep...the two most juvenile posters had to post... kev and his bitch, pink What RuMR lacks in stature he obvious;y makes up with maturity

That sounded dirty

I pretty much work full time....

I've helped adults climbers off mountains quickly when they otherwise would have been benighted, I always help make key decisions as well as adults... I don't feel like a less valuable person on the team when I am with adults. They do tend to make me lead all the dangerous pitches though b/c I don't have a wife and kids to take care of....

Its tricky because on bigger stuff the adult will not always be in direct contact with the minor at all times. Lets say me and an adult are rapping off V-Threads and he goes first being the heavier of the two of us. I clean the backup and go to rap but don't pay attention and set up wrong. The adult isn't there to check me to make sure I haven't f&*ked up and I end up hurtling down 300m of ice to my death. Whose fault would that be? I would say that is my fault because I have climbed a fair bit and 'know what I'm doing' in my opinion and its my resposibility to make sure i rappel properly, but the average joe off the street may hear about it and say that me adult partner should have somehow made sure I was setup properly.... its hard to say much on the topic and I don't think a defined rule for climbing with minors can be devised. When Don S and I climbed Landmark a couple weeks ago we got to the base, looked at the first three pitches and soloed them. We both knew we were capable of soloing these easy pitches and were not concerned. If I had done something retarded and fallen off however some mat say that Don should have made us rope up b/c Im a minor. IMO we BOTH decided to solo it, I never asked for a rope and I assumed all the risk of doing so. Even when I take the sharp end when climbing with an adult If I fell and got hurt some may say that being a minor I shouldnt have been leading although I assumed all the risk of doing so. I honestly don't feel I should be treated any differently than an adult climber by my partners.

You don't truly know the meaning of running out of gear until you start placing spare biners like stoppers in finger cracks...

depends on the minor and the family amd the situation. My family would be extremely unlikely to sueif I got hurt. Say my partner just untied from me and ditched me on a big mountain and I fell in a crevasse and barely survived they might do something against the person. If I just ran it WAY out fell and got myself screwed up they would just say that I learned a lesson.