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marc_leclerc

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Everything posted by marc_leclerc

  1. I love TCU's.... they fit in shallower placements than 4 cam units and seem to get stuck less often....
  2. There have been a few cases where I have had a second forget to unclip/clean and rotated my cam and gotten it stuck. Then he/she should replace it. I prefer leading on my own rack in case I get a peice stuck... but If a friend got my cam stuck retardedly shoving in a thin crack or something then I would expect him/her to replace it...
  3. Hello
  4. Thats awesome to hear Dane! You're probably soloing harder ice than half of us cc'ers lead less than a year after that accident.. props!
  5. Yes, I dont get out much... As far as unknown classics: 1. Slesse South Peak - SE Buttress 2. Cheam Peak - North Face '76 route 3. Mt. Waddington - Mcnerthy Pillar (sp) 4. Slesse E Pillar 5. South Nesakwatch Spire, West Face/Dairyland
  6. I sense discrimination... you'd be sued if you lived in Canada!
  7. Nice work.... there are strong jealousy vibes being emmited in your general direction
  8. yay for Myron!!! My new HERO!!! sickie Anyhows.... sounds like he did a good job.... being an apprentice carpenter for my Dad your post reminds me a lot of how we try to be... as non-douche-ish as possible...
  9. That rock is phenomenal! Beautiful splitter granite in a friendly alpine setting. That whole group seems to have a pleasant relaxed atmosphere. It gives off very different vibes than the dark, looming tower of Slesse accross the valley...
  10. [video:youtube]v=UgGe7VJHTts&feature=fvst
  11. I am a relatively new climber compared to most of you guys so ly list isn't that legit.. but here it is. In no particular order... Yak Check - Despite complaints of crap rock and mank pro this route is truly beautiful, it starts off with 3 full pitches of splitter crack action but even that can't beat laybacking the exposed, flexing flakes of pitch 7! Slesse Northeast Buttress - Even though the rock isn't splitter granite the climbing is still great! Great pro, steep climbing and decent exposure, the tense glacial approach gives it a real alpine flavour. Crazy Peak Paymaster Couloir - This 450m couloir on the north face of crazy peak is similar in appearance to 'Supercouloir' on Mt. Deltaform but much easier. A nice approach and descent along with incredible views and a remote location make this a true classic. Ensakwatch Enchainment - Easy but beautiful climbing along a sharp crest of spectacular granite. The straighforward climbing makes this route a pleasant, almost 'worry free' day out. Harrison Bluffs, Falcons Crest Wall - This six pitch wall has two routes, both very enjoyable. The adventure is high on this wall, it isnt your usual crag route. Most belays lack bolts and bailing could be difficult. Don't go too early or you may be chased off by angry falcons.
  12. just get your partner to follow all the pendulums... leading them is simple enough. If your soloing or your partner is not as experienced as you then that doesnt work.... I really can't suggest anything as I live in Canada and I doubt you wanna drive up here to practice doing pundulums
  13. Nice Work.... I'll finish up this after doing the Grand...
  14. Keep 'your mom' out of this and I'll keep this out of your mom.
  15. I was just being facecious.... dont take it seriously at all. I just hear too much b.s from crag climbers about quality routes like 'Yak Check' and Slesse NEB being 'shit chosspiles' with mank gear and so on. Sprinbok arete looke awesome... Voodoo Child looks better though, no decomposing ramp to start.
  16. Okay... lets sum up this campare-eachother chestbeating tick list...... Colin wins, the end.
  17. I am in school
  18. Do you want to see MY TICKLIST (puff out chest)you will be VERY IMPRESSED with my BADASSNESS!
  19. Sweet.... I'm trying it a.s.a.p
  20. I doubt its that bad... you're probably just a wuss
  21. Whats so bad about it? Flaky decomposing rock? It looks pretty nice....
  22. sure looks it!
  23. Yep.. one in my back yesteday!
  24. Some of my personal faves.... Waddington South Face (weissner/house) Combatant- south buttress/'Belligerance' Slesse - East Face Serra 5 Steinbok - Edwards/Spagnut
  25. I remember googling this route for some information and not gettin any results cuz I wrote 'Greybeard' instead of 'Graybeard'.... it's a Canadian thing. Anyhow, geat job! Looks like a nice route.... I would like to try it but right now I'm fully enjoying cragging in the sun and getting burnt like a lobster... all that snow looks cold!
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