marc_leclerc

SE Face of Stonerabbit 1000m of rock, no bush. perfect granite.

Do the Crossover Descent but leave a bike at Slesse Creek incase time or weather does not permit a return via the crossover descent route. It is much less punishing especially with the new trail (at least what I saw of the new trail looked good)

You should go to Pen Island... or join the Pen15 club....

BB cannot take AA off belay because all the rope is run out and they are now in simul-climbing position with BB at the bottom end of the rope. Whether the belay device is on the rope or not AA is still on belay.

Damn, if only you were in B.C you could take him up the west buttress of Old Settler. 12 pitches of 4th, low 5th....

Nice! Did you ever hear about when Croft Soloed this route and almost got blown off the upper section by freak wind? Sounded scary!

Ive only ever been interested in via ferrata if I did it without the harnes/biners

I dont have STD's.... I place my nuts wisely

Absolutely agreed!!!! That pitch was phenomenal!

haha.. I posted beta on the crux pitch.. got the answer I was looking for and erased the beta. Now you have to figure out the crux for yourself

Dunno I've never been to the bugs. Jk.. the only bugs we encountered were wasps with an attitude just beyond the end of the clearcut. Beware.

We took he righthand route... It was awesome! One of the coolest sections of the routes.

to tell everybody to go climb it because its F**king awesome....

Trip: South Nesakwatch Spire - West Face - Dairyland Date: 8/22/2009 Trip Report: Me and my buddy Lorne made a day trip of the superb 'Dairyland' route on the South Nesakwatch Spire and it was amazing. We climbed it as 5 pitches and 4 of them were superb. The final splitter is the best pitch I have climbed in the mountains and was on par, in my opinion, with famous pitches like Exaperator or the Split Pillar! The crux pitch has a few plants on it that could be pulled out but is still one of the best too. I'm going to keep the spirit of adventure and not give away a pitch-by-pitch description of the route for all to see on this page. We had to discover the route for ourselves, I knew where it started and ended and that somewhere it has a 5.11a pitch but that was all. I could make a desription and post a download to it for people who really want to know exactly what they will be climbing... but anyways, go climb it because it is phenomenal! Gear Notes: We had cams to a No. 3 Camalot. A No. 4 could be nice a the end. Doubles from fingers to wide hands, purple (0) Metolius was nice to have. We brought 8 draws and a few slings and that was fine. Approach Notes: Up the Rexford trial to the base of the route... about 2 hours... look out for wasps just past the logging cut.

Powerthirst n00b!! [video:youtube]v=qRuNxHqwazs

work routes from the top down before the red-point attempts.. it helps a lot. Just go from the last bolt/rest stance ect.. to the top then from one lower and so on. After that work on red pointing, pulling the rope after each attempt.

In that case is it alright to keep climbing as long as I don't hang from fingerlocks above roofs for a while?

So today I was leading a semi-hard crack climb. I reached up past a roof really far and got a bomber, thumb up, fingerlock for my right hand in a constriction. I hung from the lock above the roof with pretty much all of my weight on the lock while I placed a cam and suddenly my pinkie finger started to feel like it was covered in warm water. I assumed it had slipped and I was bleeding badly but after I placed the gear moved up and took my fingers out there was no blood and my pinkie was shooting pins and needles like crazy. Anyhow, I finished the lead, got the red point but now, 8 hours later, my pinkie is still tingling and I can hardly feel anything with it. I'm not sure if I really damaged a nerve hanging entirely from my one fingerlock... have any of you guys done samething similar and how long should I expect to wait before the feeling returns to my finger???

thats a shitload of shit!

Nice! Looks super stellar!

fixed

you h-core anti bolters have probably all had the experience where youa re run-out like fuck on hard climbing and have been sooooo happy to find a bolt and clip... dont deny it

what the fuck dude ^

I hope my future children climb Too bad thats probably 15 years down the road

I pretty much just about sent a 5.13 sport route