marc_leclerc

Ive only ever been interested in via ferrata if I did it without the harnes/biners

I dont have STD's.... I place my nuts wisely

Absolutely agreed!!!! That pitch was phenomenal!

haha.. I posted beta on the crux pitch.. got the answer I was looking for and erased the beta. Now you have to figure out the crux for yourself

Dunno I've never been to the bugs. Jk.. the only bugs we encountered were wasps with an attitude just beyond the end of the clearcut. Beware.

We took he righthand route... It was awesome! One of the coolest sections of the routes.

to tell everybody to go climb it because its F**king awesome....

Trip: South Nesakwatch Spire - West Face - Dairyland Date: 8/22/2009 Trip Report: Me and my buddy Lorne made a day trip of the superb 'Dairyland' route on the South Nesakwatch Spire and it was amazing. We climbed it as 5 pitches and 4 of them were superb. The final splitter is the best pitch I have climbed in the mountains and was on par, in my opinion, with famous pitches like Exaperator or the Split Pillar! The crux pitch has a few plants on it that could be pulled out but is still one of the best too. I'm going to keep the spirit of adventure and not give away a pitch-by-pitch description of the route for all to see on this page. We had to discover the route for ourselves, I knew where it started and ended and that somewhere it has a 5.11a pitch but that was all. I could make a desription and post a download to it for people who really want to know exactly what they will be climbing... but anyways, go climb it because it is phenomenal! Gear Notes: We had cams to a No. 3 Camalot. A No. 4 could be nice a the end. Doubles from fingers to wide hands, purple (0) Metolius was nice to have. We brought 8 draws and a few slings and that was fine. Approach Notes: Up the Rexford trial to the base of the route... about 2 hours... look out for wasps just past the logging cut.

Powerthirst n00b!! [video:youtube]v=qRuNxHqwazs

work routes from the top down before the red-point attempts.. it helps a lot. Just go from the last bolt/rest stance ect.. to the top then from one lower and so on. After that work on red pointing, pulling the rope after each attempt.

In that case is it alright to keep climbing as long as I don't hang from fingerlocks above roofs for a while?

So today I was leading a semi-hard crack climb. I reached up past a roof really far and got a bomber, thumb up, fingerlock for my right hand in a constriction. I hung from the lock above the roof with pretty much all of my weight on the lock while I placed a cam and suddenly my pinkie finger started to feel like it was covered in warm water. I assumed it had slipped and I was bleeding badly but after I placed the gear moved up and took my fingers out there was no blood and my pinkie was shooting pins and needles like crazy. Anyhow, I finished the lead, got the red point but now, 8 hours later, my pinkie is still tingling and I can hardly feel anything with it. I'm not sure if I really damaged a nerve hanging entirely from my one fingerlock... have any of you guys done samething similar and how long should I expect to wait before the feeling returns to my finger???

thats a shitload of shit!

Nice! Looks super stellar!

fixed

you h-core anti bolters have probably all had the experience where youa re run-out like fuck on hard climbing and have been sooooo happy to find a bolt and clip... dont deny it

what the fuck dude ^

I hope my future children climb Too bad thats probably 15 years down the road

I pretty much just about sent a 5.13 sport route

fuck my life

I know this is in B.C but if you can get to the SE face of Stonerabbit Peak or the SW Butress of Old Settler's South Peak, those are both low 5th, 4 star routes. Also, the Ensakwatch Enchainment is good.

A LOT OF IT TOO!!!!

My girlfriend will handle that... and Im pretty sure shes hotter.

Hmmm..... I'm interested some day. Die? Remember what I said, I don't die so easily, what kind of crazy place would you take me up? Joking about the dying thing, I would just bring you somewhere easy... maybe a scramble (no glacier travel) with a couple low 5th class pitches that I could tie you onto a rope for. A non-technical descent would be ideal, perhaps the West Ridge of Mt Rexford would be good. Also, there wouldn't be liability problems as I am also a minor

Josh... if you can get yourself to Canada you can tag along on ONE of my trips.... you might learn something, or die... not sure which one.