marc_leclerc

[video:youtube]v=lu6KkiqHcl4 I love this! Great impression of Niel Young!!!

I didnt bring a rack, I free-soloed it. So I can'r really tell you...

How many of you wore helmets on your first leads? I was 10 on my first lead and I wasnt wearing a helmet!!! OMG!!!

Nope.....

Trip: Cheam Peak - North Face Date: 6/10/2009 Trip Report: After my grade 12 graduation this past weekend I wanted to kick off my summer by doing something big and committing and to do it solo. I look up at the North side of Cheam every day and I had noticed that the 1976 route on the North Face looked to be in nice condition, so I put that on my itenerary. Cheam Peak has some burly relief on the north side rising just about 7,000 ft from the highway to the summit, the first half of this gain in elevation is mostly steep, dense bush and the upper half is composed of a mixture of steep snowlopes cut by steep rock bands of crumbling choss.... perfect! I packed up my bag, bringing no rope, harness, or protection other than my ice tools. I threw in some food, 2 liters of water a sweater and some shell pants too. My parents forced me to carry crampons even though I knew I wouldn't need them.... I mean seriously, I'm graduated! I set me alarm for 5:15 AM and slept a few hours, then I had some breakfast got dressed and woke up my Dad to give me a ride over to the base of the mountain. He dropped me off on a powerline road branching off the Highway just East of Bridal Falls. I started hiking up at 6:00, hit the creek draining the face in a few minutes then reached the wooded ridge I would follow a few minutes later. I was hiking up a bear trail low on the approach when I ran into a big black bear. I the bear politely let me pass and I had no other encounters for the next two hours of thrashing up the ridge. At 8:00 I emerged from the forest onto the moraine and snowlopes below the North Face. I got my first real view of my objective then and was rather intimidated by the large steep face. I ate some food then hiked up the snow to the left of a large rocky outcrop then cut back right onto the knoll at the top of the outcrop. I started the technical climbing above the knoll at 9:00. I traversed some steep snow right of the knoll, then skirted around the bergshrund on some rocks to the left. I climbed up a short but terrifying rock step made up of crumbling, wet choss sprouting moss and grass. It was probably only about 5.4 but it was extremely dicey, especially the last 15 ft which was pretty near vertical. Above this I hit the long, right trending snow ramp leading to the NW ridge. This section was tiring and took a long time, I had to be careful not to slip and fall down the face but not linger too long and get hit by rocks falling from the summit. By the time I reached the upper NW ridge I was pretty tired of snow so I avoided the upper section of the ramp by climbing rocks to the right. The headwall was surprisingly easy but very exposed and the rock was awful. The last 200 ft to the summit was loose, exposed and steep, but 4th class gravel covered ramps led to the summit ridge and I topped out just west of the summit at 1:00. A few victory whoops later I was on the summit enoying some 'pop tarts' and cold water. I descended the west ridge then glissaded easy snow slopes into the bowl below the NW face and hiked a long ridge beside the drainage gully draining the NW face. The descent was quite fast and I reached the Highway at 4:00 PM, making this a 10 hour round trip... not bad. Overall the route was pretty loose and exposed but definitely worth doing once. For a grade like 5.4 and snow to 45 degrees it is quite serious. Definitely my biggest, most commiting solo yet. Pics: A long way to go... from the approach. Me and the North Face.. Objective Up the snow and rock bands, then around the corner onto the ridge. Looking down the NW ridge... I came up from behind the ridge. Looking west shortly before topping out. Self Timed shot of me on the Summit. Edited photo showing my route, I had much less snow, the rock crux isnt even exposed in this shot! Gear Notes: Ice ax... if you plan on using ropes and crap bring some LA pitons and runners and leave everything else at home. Approach Notes: Bushwack... lots of it.. unrelenting... look out for bears and wasps, I ran into both.

thats one of the funniest things Ive ever heard!

Go as light as possible and do it in a day, bring bikes for the road. A single half rope should be good, depending on how comfortable you are on ice bring 3 or 4 (to simul) or 6 or 7 (to pitch out) the serac pitch. Its a nice route have fun.

I crag on a 9.4 mm rope.. I like alpine (5.10 or easier only) and ice climbing on a single 8mm half rope cuz its light and I dont plan to fall off anyhow...

Okay.. well wanna hear me resume bitches! I have been climbing indoors for 5 years, outdoors for 2 or so. I won several climbing competitions including the Canadian Nationals on toprope. I am an utter badass and even graduated high school last week. I don't have a criminal record only cuz I never get caught because my running and fence jumping skill are fucking raging! I even have a girlfriend... I swear shit loads and everyone knows thats fucking badass! I even swear in front of less badass people just to be offensive. I climb 5.12 trad and sport and I swear on every send! Even when I am cranking down V8 boulder problems without a crash pad under me I yell swear words so everyone looks at me and thinks Im so fucking awesome! I even climb with other badass people so respect me and bow in my awesome presence!

Man, this is terrible. These guys were awesome climbers, this is really sad news.

This is why the word 'take' (take me) started in the eighties... no coincidence I swear... [video:youtube]v=vFlSpM1cnvQ

I use mine in the Alpine and on Ice.... or on serious r/x rated routes.

Wow.. another thread all about grades and ego's.... pathetic.

Any idea if it is possible to downclimb the rappel on the Crossover Descent if you were solo w/o a rope?

Climb Slesse... its a cool peak with many epic routes...

Actic wing looks pretty tough right now... you can see it well in the last shot. I would like to get up there but I have grad next weekend and by the time I'm free it will probably be melted out. Shitty how things work out sometimes...

Guy Edwards got turned around..... its gotta be friggin hard.... Something about a possible neccesary bolt ladder, and he didnt want to hang out drilling 12 bolts by hand in that couloir in winter....

Well I climbed your mom.... big mountains but bushes everywhere...

That's real impressive there sporto boy wonder. Those top-ropin' skills probably won't help you too much when you are out there in the alpine pushin' it on the sharp end. I'm talking about real climbing. Like Yellowjacket Tower for instance. Let me know when you head up there so I can get my rescue gear ready. Haha.. fooled you homo bitch....

Salmon fishing net.... industrial strength bungy.... crap to anchor from and your good to go.. its surprisingly simple.

Trip: Fraser Valley Rock Climbing - A Picture TR - Date: 5/19/2009 Trip Report: I heard a complaint about there being a lack of new climbing TR's on CC recently. I figured all my cragging is pretty boring stuff but I decided to try and up the hype by posting some pics and short stories from the past couple months. For the past couple months i have been climbing a lot at the Harrison Bluffs and Nicolum Knob in Hope. I've cleaned stuff on the Up To Here Wall.. the Change Room Wall and the East Wall in Harrison and Dru and I put up a new line in Hope a while back... I spent some time bouldering in Harrison and at the Old Hope Boulders too... Le Predateur V6 Battle of Five Armies - V4 Rendezvous With Rama - V3 Change Up - 5.10a - Harrison Bluffs Root Picker - 5.8 - Harrison Bluffs Tubby and His Pal - 5.11+ or 5.12a? Harrison Bluffs Bel-Air 3p - 5.10+ A0 or 5.11 (I freed the bolt ladder) - Harrison Highway 12 - 3p 5.10a - Nicolum Knob, Hope First Blood - 5.6 - Nicoum Knob, Hope Life on a Chain - 5.11d (ish) Nicolum Knob, Hope I tried for the FA of this but fell off on the redpoint crux times in a row.. Land Down Under - 5.10a - Nicolum Knob, Hope I went to Squamish for a day and climbed at the base of the Grand then met pro climbers Matt and Steve at the cacodaemon boulder and 'soloed' above a net they rigged... sweet stuff Apron Strings Exasperator - 5.10c Net Soloing Photo Attack!!! The route is called Young Blood - 5.13a Thats all I got for now... hope that helps get you a little stoked..

According to your avatar you have no nuts...

Well im pritty sure that i could jump into the artic oshen and my dick would still be bigger than urs... im like 14 and have been climing in the gym for 5 months and can alredy top rope 5.12.... so shut up cuz u arnt that speshel

Pretty ganrly! Great TR...

It's all Fun and Games 'til someone loses an eye... then its a scavenger hunt.