marc_leclerc

It was hot... I don't like the feeling and slipping, sweaty fingers when unroped. Or when climbing steeper stuff in general....

cool man.... when it doesn't touch down it goes at M7 with some bolts... I wouldn't mind trying that either.... but we may have to take turns leading

I want to climb Shreddie.... who's leading?

I beleive Don fell off Shreddie once on lead but was okay... but Im not sure.

wtf?

How was it placed man? I repeatedly took 10 footers onto my puple metolius when I was working Zombie Roof... back when I was in Squamish for a few days..... I didnt damage it at all!

Serac climbing is quite decent at the moment.... there was an excellent serac in particular that we found..... about 105-110 degrees for about 70ft.... had to borrow a pair of Nomics to climb the thing

Yeah.... that one is quite amusing! [video:youtube]v=5ecEF0nNNoM&feature=related The best thing about my day was that immediately after this climb in the vid, I decided to have a go at a sort of longstanding project... I manages to send first go, hanging all the draws and placing the gear, so I guess I got the FA or FFA.... tons of fun!

I had a good day in Hope... yes I know I am a cheezy poser for making these videos.... [video:vimeo]6938429

He's talking about Shreddie.. the route on the right. Don Serl led that thing at like 60 yrs old, totally bad-ass!

I just did my first one arm pull ups a couple days ago... Ive been working up to that for way too long! Im psyched!

Yes its open... I climbed at the seracs yesterday. however I wouldnt recommend tou go on the glacier/attempt the summit right now with your limited experience right now Josh, the routes look like they are in brutal shape at the moment, very broken up.

My experience in winter climbing tells me that you can never plan to climb a certain mountain at a certain time (washington in Jan) as you never now what conditions will be like and it is extremely hit-and-miss on the Coast. As for Puffy Jackets I like my Westcomb Himalayan, and I also like my Westcomb Mirage Shell, very light.

I strongly disagree....

I thought I mention, although this is now an ancient TR, that Don and I did return and lop all the branches off of that tree and it should remain as a highway accross the river for many seasons to come I hope that helps more people get out to Sumallo, the climbs are excellent!

Good one Josh! I`m surprised I didn`t see this one earlier. You know, you`re not the only young guy here with an interesting Baker story: when I was 15, last year , I got abandoned on the summit of Baker by a responsible adult. His reason for leaving me was that he was feeling cold and had to go down, but I refused to descend becasue two good friends of mine were still trying to top out the upper north ridge in extreme winds and 15m visibility. I wanted to downclimb and get them out (as I knew the way out)As I was starting to downclimb over the edge of the summit rim I saw my buddy pop up over the lip of a steep section and I yelled to show him the best route up... man that was a gong show!

Roger and Dylan were able to pass the high point last winter but didnt finish the route! Bring your drytooling skills! how many bolts did they add to the ladder? Roger doesnt need to aid climb... as long as there are ice tools in his hands and crampons on his feet he simply levitates past the difficulties..

Dude I'm no badass. I'm a solid 5.9 climber! Being a solid 5.9 free-soloist in the alpine (while enchaining big, committing peaks) is NOT the same as being a solid 5.9 climber. Im not saying telemarker is not badass... but when soloing I find that you climb so focused that 5.8-5.9 and 5.10 all feel about the same and you never fell like a total badass after a solo, you just feel like you had lots of fun! Now soloing 5.11 is hard and scary for me at least....

In that case what about a solo link up of Nav Wall, East Pillar and NE Buttress in a single winter day On a more serious note, I second the NE Buttress 2nd winter ascent, and what about Heart of Darkness? Isn't it time that went down?

totally awesome!

Thats a weird-ass story. I wonder why someone would take all those pics and obviously do lots of work to tell a made up story? huh...

you dont often zipper 5 bolts and a bolted belay.... then catch your rope on another team, tear their (5 bolt?) belay rip a million cams and force them to cut their rope killing a guy....

funny, I'm sure, to a kid who's too young to have a list of friends who didn't survive such incidents. sorry.. I was intoxicated