Le Piston

Any forecast is just that...an educated estimate, but I use NOAA Weather for weather forecasts, and have a fair amount of faith in their accuracy. I don't think it covers all of Oregon, but Norhwest Weather and Avalanche Center has good info on avalanche conditions and snowpack analysis...but again it is general info and no substitute for good on-site judgement. I'm sure there are other sources out there (especially for Oregon), but hope this helps. Cheers!

I've got the #5 version, so a lighter summer bag. I love it. It is super light, compresses very small, and is plenty warm above freezing. It doesn't have zippers, so no venting to adapt to varying temperatures...just layer as needed with clothing. Hope that helps.

I outgrew my sweater a long time ago, but still have the mitts...super durable,they will outlast me. Can you still get Kendal Mint cakes anywhere? I liked them...just don't give me any Pilot Bread outlets, my teeth still haven't recovered. Thanks for the trip down amnesia lane Dan.

Thanks for the update Dan...yeehah! I appreciate you taking the time to keep us informed. Thank you!

I only have a 3 day weekend 6/25, but I live in Kent and if you need partners for future climbs would be interested in meeting you. I could use another reliable partner.

I have painful memories of hiking with a Trapper Nelson in my youth...I even owned one. Ivan said it eloquently. I figure it was some parental form of discipline or extracting information from me.

It may be bigger than you want, but I have really liked my Deuter Pace 30. It's very lightweight, handles two axes, and has external pockets on both sides for stowing pickets, poles, or whatever.

I got the same e-mail. I'm just glad I saw it before my wife did, or I'd be banned from Cascade Climbers. I just hope this person didn't load some virus or spyware on the e-mail. I wished I saw this post sooner, but thank you for the alert. (I am sad that I'm not the sole object of some babe's desire...besides my wife)

I also have the North Face Fission. I've been very happy with it. It's about 2 pounds 4 oz., so well under 3 pounds and rated at 20 degrees F.

Is it the blue Stinger? That is one of my all time favorite alpine ropes!

Very nice, I was curious what conditions were like up there. I've been drooling over the recent nice weather and cursing because I had to work. Glad you got up and down safely and enjoyed the stellar weather. Thanks for the TR!

I'm with Genepires, flesh out your rack and basic gear with a little of the money, and spend the rest on a nice road trip or long local go at your ticklist. If you've got the time, take advantage of it. You can hopefully hook up with a climbing partner who has the big wall experience and equipment...add to your rack as need and experience dictate. One more thought...got a camera to capture your climbing trip? Have fun!

I agree...as a fellow working dad old fart, great TR and inspiration (I'm planning on a Picket's adventure this summer!)

I totally agree with Layton on "pick a goal". I notice that if I have a specific goal, my motivation to slog with a heavy pack and watch what I eat and drink goes up exponentially. When the time comes for that long anticipated climb, I think back on the conditioning slogs while I'm cruising and enjoy the climb all the more. A climbing buddy of mine says that half the battle is showing up...so agree that a lot of success is mental. Thanks for the thoughts you shared.

I wish! Some of us have jobs and families=less time for play, so it's difficult. I envy folks like Dane who can get away for that long, and don't begrudge them their good fortune. All of us have different motivation, time commitments, budgets, and goals. Climbing isn't all about the gear, but the gear can greatly increase the comfort, safety, and enjoyment of the trip. I agree that fitness, skill, etc. are more important than the latest titanium thingamajig. But, we do use gear don't we? I don't see (thank goodness) my fellow climbers out free soloing in the buff. All the comments (less the finger-pointing) are helpful and thought provoking for those of us who like talking about the gear we use. While I'm trying to get more fit and lose the extra lard off my body trudging up Mt. Si after work for the zillionth time, I envision my planned trip to Challenger this summer...and think about what I'll need and can leave behind.

Excellent ideas Dane...enjoyed your post. Light and fast is usually the safest way to climb. It seems to be a constant art to match the climbing route, conditions, fitness of the climber/climbers,and skill level (read: comfort level) to the gear you take...and still leave a margin of safety. I must admit to being a bit of a gear geek, so it's part of my fun to ponder what to take and what to leave behind so I can move efficiently on a climb and minimize my exposure to objective hazards. Keep up the good work!

I've used sleeping bags made by both companies and found them to be well made and durable. I like the WM Ultralight (rated to 20 degrees)for 3 season climbing here...except when it gets hotter weather, then I go for a lighter bag (Montbell Alpine Down Hugger). My FF bag hood fit just fine, so I can't support that rumor. DPS is right, conditions can vary...as well as individual comfort levels. Good Luck!

My thoughts exactly...I like my Yates pickets.

I won't go back in time to my leather double boots and Galibier's, but the best fit I have had were the La Sportiva Trango S (on my 3rd pair) and Asolo Expert GV (2nd pair) La Sportiva Nepal EVO good except in the toe (too narrow) Koflach Viva Soft too loose in the heel Scarpa Invernos great fit, rubs my shins Hope this information helps, though I find you have to try on a wide variety to get a good fit.

Does this Chad happen to be an RN? Looks just like a guy I used to work ER with.

Check out the CosleyHouston.com web site (professional guides) There is a section "Alps Advice" with helpful information for climbing in the Alps...it helped me out a lot. Summitpost.org also has some good information on specific climbs. Hope that helps and have a great time!

Great TR! You guys had quite the adventure. Extra hardman points for sleeping in space blankets. I tried it once...nuff said. Loved the pictures...inspiring.

When I was in Taiwan 2 years ago, I didn't make it to Long Dong. The extent of my "climbing" was a hike up Phoenix Mountain. It is hot and humid in the summer...but at least you'll probably miss typhoon season. It might rain a lot. Try googling Climbstone.com Rock Climbing Taiwan and Rockclimbing.com. There is supposed to be a couple climbing guides by Matt Robertson (Rock Climbing Taiwan and Long Dong Trad Climbs). I hope you have a great trip!

Thanks. The Alps have a lot of beautiful peaks to climb.

That brought back good memories. Strong work on a classic route. Thanks for the nice pictures too!