Le Piston

Trip: Austera Peak/Primus Peak - Date: 7/3/2011 Trip Report: My friend Rod and I had wanted to climb Austera Peak on our trip to climb Dorado Needle, but bad weather changed that plan. So, with perfect weather we headed up towards Eldorado with hopes of climbing Austera and Primus. The trail was no less steep (my body is getting too old for this!), but the snow on the upper boulder field and slope leading up to the Eldorado glacier was a highway of steps.We wanted to camp at Klawatti Col to be closer to our goal. The Inspiration glacier crossing was the easiest I've ever had before.We set up camp and enjoyed the splendid views in either direction.Sunday morning we awoke to rain and whiteout conditions. I was afraid we were going to be stuck in "tent city" for the duration, but it stopped raining about noon. We ate and headed out in less than perfect visibility.Thanks to all the previous climbers...the tracks made routefinding a lot easier. We decided to do Primus first, as it is a walk-up...safely done in marginal conditions. We dropped down to the base of Austera Towers ridge (about 6800 feet) and started traversing up to Primus. The weather started to improve as we hit the summit.It isn't the prettiest mountain or technically challenging, but after getting skunked on Copper Peak last weekend due to illness, it felt good to summit something.Even though it was afternoon, we figured we had enough time to climb Austera and get back to camp before dark. We retraced our route and headed up to the base of Austera in perfect step kicking snow. We had been told the chockstone gully leading to the summit was solid ice, but I found only a few spots of ice in the chimney. I slung the chockstone (the only protection I set the whole trip) made a stemming move to get onto a small snow patch, then a few feet of rock to the summit.The views were pretty fine of Dorado Needle and the backside of Eldorado. We made it back to camp with light to spare, glad to have gotten to climb two peaks in such a beautiful area.The hike out, the snow was pretty hard, so crampons came out for the first time. Gear Notes: Standard glacier gear. We brought pickets and a small rock rack for Austera (there is an exposed 4th class rock option for the summit) Approach Notes: Lower boulder field snow free. Upper boulder field melting out quickly...lots of holes to drop in (I hit a couple) Well packed footpath on the Inspiration glacier with very little crevasse action. A few cracks on the North Klawatti glacier.

Choss is right! I think we did the same traverse to the summit.

I climbed Spider 3 years ago the first week of July. I found the gullies on the south side pretty wet and slippery, so opted to descend one of the steep snow slopes and contoured back to the Spider-Formidable col and returned via the Middle Cascade Glacier/Red Ledges to our camp at Kool Aid Lake. There's bound to be a lot more snow than we encountered, but I haven't been up there yet this year. Spider isn't the prettiest mountain on the Ptarmigan, but great views from the summit!

Them's my kind of calories! My partner and I have a summit tradition...Ritter Sport chocolate bars. Nothing like a reward for all the hard work getting up and energy to help you get down.

You might check out the REI brands. Not as alpine chic as Mountain Hardwear, Arcteryx, etc. I have one of their older light synthetic puffies (Gossamer with hood) and have gotten good use out of it. I don't know if you can go under $100, but it will probably be at least $40-$70 less than the top models. Otherwise look for sales on-line and at your local climbing shops. Good luck!

I climbed the south slope route 2 years ago using the Depot Creek approach. Except for the waterfall section, I don't think you'd have any more difficulty toting skis that way. Definitely an early summer ski, as by August the glacier was icy. I too would love to see a TR from your trip.

Alpine Climbing: Rod Xuereb on the West Ridge of Forbidden Scenic:Panorama of Monte Rosa, Lyskamm, Polux and Castor: Swiss Alps Humor: Hitching a ride at Hyak

I hope you get some coin for that. Thanks for the update...been wondering about conditions on the NEB couloir. Thanks for the great pictures too!

Sweet! I see what you mean...looks like some sporty climbing and definitely a beautiful location. Nice Pics! Can't wait to see the video. Some of us poor suckers had to work this weekend!

My personal experience with Merino Wool base layers is that they are comfortable, less funky smelling, but take way too long to dry. I hardly ever use my wool stuff climbing anymore, and stick to my Capilene. For summer, I like the thinest variety in white or light grey for sunny weather, and like Genepires, layer over it. In winter, I will go for Capilene 3 or R-1 hoody for baselayer. Hope that helps, but either one should work just fine.

Strong work gentlemen and great TR!

Nice first posting and sweet pictures. I hope we see a lot more of these from you. Brought back good memories of those peaks...except for my own postholing hell coming back from Klawatti!

This is real good advice. I've been up there many times and often have seen footprints near the crater rim with cracks forming behind them. I also second the ice axe and crampons...and knowing how to use them. I hope the weather cooperates for you! Myself I'd rather have snow on the route rather than nasty ash and rocks. Have fun!

Trip: South Early Winters Spire - Southwest Couloir Date: 6/4/2011 Trip Report: More of a conditions report on a well known route. My usual climbing partner was concerned about avalanches with the recent warm weather, so I decided to try the Southwest Couloir solo...hoping that an early start would see me up and down before things warmed up too much.I left home about 1:30 a.m. and arrived at the trailhead about 5:00. The snow was firm, so the snowshoes stayed in the car. The approach trail was easy to follow. The couloir was in perfect shape...no chockstone, no ice, nice step kicking snow!There was snow all the way to the top of the couloir, and just 20 feet or so of 4th class scramble to the summit. I shared the top with a couple of guys named Nick...enjoyed the company! I had lugged up all sorts of gear, so we set up a rappel, but the downclimbing was faster and solid. The late morning snow was softening, so there was a little postholing until we got to tree line. The Nicks were kind enough to give me a beer back at the cars...great guys. Thanks! The weather and views were stellar. Now is the time to climb the route. Gear Notes: Took a picket, rope, rock rack and only used it for balast and one rap that wasn't needed (new rope needed stretching). For current snow conditions my Venoms worked perfect, better than ice tools...especially for the downclimbing. Approach Notes: Better make it early, unless you enjoy character building postholing. The trailhead parking lot is still snowed under, but plenty of roadside parking.

Any forecast is just that...an educated estimate, but I use NOAA Weather for weather forecasts, and have a fair amount of faith in their accuracy. I don't think it covers all of Oregon, but Norhwest Weather and Avalanche Center has good info on avalanche conditions and snowpack analysis...but again it is general info and no substitute for good on-site judgement. I'm sure there are other sources out there (especially for Oregon), but hope this helps. Cheers!

I've got the #5 version, so a lighter summer bag. I love it. It is super light, compresses very small, and is plenty warm above freezing. It doesn't have zippers, so no venting to adapt to varying temperatures...just layer as needed with clothing. Hope that helps.

I outgrew my sweater a long time ago, but still have the mitts...super durable,they will outlast me. Can you still get Kendal Mint cakes anywhere? I liked them...just don't give me any Pilot Bread outlets, my teeth still haven't recovered. Thanks for the trip down amnesia lane Dan.

Thanks for the update Dan...yeehah! I appreciate you taking the time to keep us informed. Thank you!

I only have a 3 day weekend 6/25, but I live in Kent and if you need partners for future climbs would be interested in meeting you. I could use another reliable partner.

I have painful memories of hiking with a Trapper Nelson in my youth...I even owned one. Ivan said it eloquently. I figure it was some parental form of discipline or extracting information from me.

It may be bigger than you want, but I have really liked my Deuter Pace 30. It's very lightweight, handles two axes, and has external pockets on both sides for stowing pickets, poles, or whatever.

I got the same e-mail. I'm just glad I saw it before my wife did, or I'd be banned from Cascade Climbers. I just hope this person didn't load some virus or spyware on the e-mail. I wished I saw this post sooner, but thank you for the alert. (I am sad that I'm not the sole object of some babe's desire...besides my wife)

I also have the North Face Fission. I've been very happy with it. It's about 2 pounds 4 oz., so well under 3 pounds and rated at 20 degrees F.

Is it the blue Stinger? That is one of my all time favorite alpine ropes!

Very nice, I was curious what conditions were like up there. I've been drooling over the recent nice weather and cursing because I had to work. Glad you got up and down safely and enjoyed the stellar weather. Thanks for the TR!