Maine-iac

I dropped the money for the 2 person version of this. It is awesome. Two things that stand out for me with it, and maybe why it is worth the extra $$$ is cuben fiber is waterproof and cuben fiber is nearly completely rip resistant. I spent 18 days in the Brooks Range this summer and luckily for me I had sun for 4 of those days. That means 14 days of rain. A waterproof shelter was pretty nice as it still weighed 17oz the entire time. Secondly, I didn't have to worry about being careful with it. Make it taught and it just hums in the wind. Pile rocks up on the fabric and you don't risk ripping it. Third, bear pokes his nose in one side, you roll out the other. Floorless is the way to go.

France. The hostel I stayed at in Chamonix was "run" by Brits (cute gals as well from what I remember!) over there for the summer. I bet there would be a fair amount of summer work in those types of situations. Cool climbing with tons of culture and easy access to all of Europe.

I did an abridged version of this trip this summer. Started in Anaktuvuk Pass and followed their route to Takahula lake (50 miles packrafting/50 miles hiking), then spent 6 days headed up into the Arrigetch mtns, where we got totally skunked with the weather (40 miles hiking). Then because I had trashed my feet got a quick bump over to Walker lake and then paddled the Kobuk River to the village of Kobuk (125 miles). 18 days total, 265 miles. 12/18 days I was solo. 14/18 days it rained. Minimal bugs, bears, wolves, moose, and terns (seagull like devil monsters who shit on you). The Brooks range is amazing. The bushwhacking sucks. You earn every mile, and boy are those miles awesome.

Just depends on the type of chicks you are after $2500 could be very enjoyable if that's what I was wanting to spend it on. I was set up for a Denali Exp last year, but some things fell through on both my partner's end and mine so we dissolved it. Now he is busy, and I am not so sure about going with a random group, especially since I would be the odd one out coming from the midwest.

I looked at his website and was not overly impressed with the picture of the glove through the hole. Might pass on that geological gem as I have already spent many hours tromping through the woods in search of old mines and the Oregon Hell hole or whatever it is called.

All right adventurers. I just got vacation approved in May. Starting the 16th I have 24 days off. Any suggestions? I live in the mid west currently and want to get out- no explanation needed as to why. I have no travel restrictions, and can probably drop up to $2500 on a trip if needed. More than likely I'll be solo, unless I head back to the PNW when I can probably find some partners, and stuff is familiar. What to do? Ski/climb/hike in the Cham area (spent about 10 days there a few years back)? Get flown in some place in AK and "explore"? NZ/Australia, surf, hike climb? Already done SE Asia... but something in the Nepal area? Annapurna circuit- barring another accident like earlier? Drive out to the PNW and ski and climb the whole time? I only get one vacation a year, so I want to do something worthwhile.

Mt Yoran off of Diamond peak? Enjoyable little scramble in the summer time on your way up to the top of Diamond Peak, but hardly worth the effort, in my opinion to get back that way in the winter time. There is no good access to the mountain, except off HWY 58, which is still like 12 miles or so through the woods, with no real trail if my memory serves me correctly. There are a few waterfalls off some of the spur roads off of 58 that occasionally freeze up.

Yes, I realize that. Out of town climbers also hire guides, and thus why i mentioned 'guide commitments.' Perhaps it will turn out to be an entirely local group, but at first glance the decision to keep pushing up in marginal weather leads me in that direction. Though given the information so far, weather may be a red herring. Regardless, it goes without saying the point is moot and the end result sucks none the less. My mistake, I understand what you were getting at now. And yes, a moot point indeed.

JoshK it was a guided group from Alpine Ascents.

Few years back I met a Russian online to climb with while in Chamonix for a few days. He said he was "new" to the sport, but I figured if you are traveling to Cham to climb you might be alps new, but not new new. He agreed to all the climbs, and knew the skill level involved. Showed up at his hotel, so we could get in line for the first tram. He is late. 15mins later he opened the door and let me in saying he had to have breakfast first. Then after breakfast he said he needed to pack his backpack. His school backpack- not backpacking/climbing pack. Then he said his crampons didn't fit his boots and he had to find an extension bar before we left. Find the crampon bar, spend $$$ and get on the Midi tram. He manages to loose his ticket at the halfway station (didn't tell me, just disappeared- I got on the tram thinking he was right behind me) so I go to the top and see he is not there. 30 minutes later he shows up saying he didn't check all of his pockets after all. Manage to rope up, and get down to the flats, where I notice he is missing one of his crampons. He didn't notice until I pointed it out... Found the crampon, then proceeded to step on the rope a few times. Get to the base of probably the most classic climb right off the Midi. Go up. "Running belays" the whole time, slow as Fcuk. Looses a nut- just forgets to take it out of the rock. Make the committing rappel- find out he has never done one before. 8hrs in to a supposed 5hr climb, 2 or 3 pitches away from the top, and the tram, we hit the "real" climbing. 5.4 with fixed gear. I lead, and put in more gear to pull on, plus the rock has drilled crampon holes in it. Sit at the belay and wait... He gets 2 moves off the ground then says he can't do it. I tell him he has no choice and he has to. He tries- but can't/doesnt want to. I rappel back down and ask what the Fcuk is going on with him. Tells me he can't do it. I have a pounding headache from going from 3k-12.5k in 10 minutes and tell him to smarten up. We look to back off down a few gullies. Realize I would loose all of my gear and they were death gullies because of loose rock. Decide to sit for the night and wait for people to come up the next day to help us out. Have no warm gear because again, this is the easiest route in Cham and we had 10hrs of daylight to do a 5hr climb. Storm starts coming in. He calls the PGHM. They say they can't fly because it is too late at night but they will see if they can start up the tram. (2am mind you). 3am- a spotlight shines down on us, I give the Russian the middle finger. A rescuer is lowered down, and walks over to us and tells us to get going. I am waiting with all my shit. He can't get his crampons back on. Ride back down the tram with all the PGHM, he exploded his backpack in front of them all and needed help stuffing it all back in there. I bang my head against the wall and try to apologize in what little French I speak. Says he will meet up with me the next day to pay for the gear he lost of mine. Emails 2 days later to say he flew to the south of France. Never got any money or a thanks/apology. Once back at the hostel/bar (when it opened) I proceeded to drink away my sorrows, and met a Brit who said he was going on a hut trip for 3 nights and wondered if I wanted to come. Fcuk it- I'd already been rescued can't get much worse than that, and this was just walking. Joined up with him, had the time of my life!

Looking for a cold weather sleeping bag- something in the -20 range. Down, something newish (few years old is fine, not really looking for something 15 years old), well taken care of, and would love a FF or WM bag (beggars can't be choosers though). Thx.

I flew into PDX last weekend (10/11/2013) and took that of Hood. It was taken with my iPhone, but I think you can get a rough idea of what things were like at least last weekend. IMHO the gullies were looking dry.

Vagabond hostel. Great fun. When I was there it was run by a bunch of brits. The Stella was flowing and it was fun. Probably a casual 10 minute walk to the heart of town. Can't remember the prices off the top of my head but it was reasonable. The room I was in had 2 bunks- a few nights there was just one other person , then the other nights it was full up. All people had similar outdoor interests. I'd stay there again.

Once of the BEST places in all of Cham I think!! This photo is hiking from the Courvecle hut over to the Leschaux hut. Directly under the pointed peak you can see the new and old huts! Phenomenal photos which bring back so many great memories. Thanks.

AWESOME!

Why not just stick with the mouth wash? You don't have to do any science experiments to separate it out, and you get REALLY fresh breath. I picked up a guy the other day (I'm a paramedic) who had been huffing pain and passed out on the side of the road. I walked up asked what was going on and he sat bolt upright and took a huge hit out of his paint filled soda can. He had gold paint all over his face and was high as a kite! Made the ambulance smell for quite a while. Gold paint gives you the best high, in case you were wondering.

Check out this video: http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=2bc_1300257828 If you are going to fight- lay the fucker out. No excuses. BUT like everybody says choose the fight wisely. At a party where you arn't good friends with everybody there and they are the odd one out, sure maybe... but when it is a mixed crowd it typically isnt worth getting anything going. Tell the guy to STFU if that doesnt work and the group isnt about to remove him from the party it might be best to walk away. The big thing that Dane and a few others pointed out is be careful if the police get involved. Even if you are fully in the right you could get ass rapped by the law. Best to have the police on your side. If you have to leave the party and the kid follows you out wanting to start something- get the police involved or lay the fucker out. I work closely with the police and when they want something accomplished it happens. A story of my own, a bunch of my buddies and I were all drinking beers on our stoop, with the front door open and music going. It looked like a rager because of the people outside and the tunes, but it was just 10 or 15 of us. It was a halloween gameday (UO versus USC) and the police were everywhere. These two guys showed up on our stoop and started to get pushy with the women around. They were told to leave by the owners. They didn't, one got ejected from the staircase. At this point a state trooper was stopped at a traffic light right across the street. The owner seeing this makes it known to the other guy (back against the road) to leave and the kid kept running his mouth. The trooper saw what was going on and pulled a Uturn and as he is getting out of the car, again my friend (without touching the other guy) told the guy to get off his property. The kid told him to fuck off and pushed him. At this point a Navy Seal looking Trooper stepped right in front of the kid and asked to have a little chat.... Like I said before, when the police have an agenda it gets done.

AWESOME!

Raindawg, you read the book Mountains of My Life by Walter Bonatti? You might enjoy it. I am a few chapters into it and so far it seems to be quite similar to your Messner quotes.

It is not the type of beacon you have... but what your partners have. I always make sure they have the longest probe, the grain scoop, and the best beacon.

I must have done something right during the interview because.... I got a job offer!!! WOOHOOO

I've got a Wild Things Belay Jacket and it is warm. I have not taken it up big mountain peaks (edit: 5 summits of Hood), but walking the 3 miles to and from class in -10 to -20 degree temps gives me a fairly good idea of its warmth. Even in those types of temps if I am walking quickly and not dicking around, I have to have it slightly unzipped or unhooded. Since I am going to class I don't have layers underneath it, so it is uniform and jacket. Wild Things is selling it for $250.

Hahahahaha thanks Ivan. Yeah being in an ambulance is great fun, you get to see many interesting things.

It is for a paramedic position in a large city (primary 911 calls go to these guys). The phone interview was very brief but was with a hospital HR person, and at the end of that talk she said they wanted to have a face to face. The panel interview consisted of a paramedic, a supervisor, and the assistant director. It lasted about 35 minutes and was the fairly generic why do you want this job, tell us about overcoming a challenge, tell us about solving a problem/challenging call... Then there was 4 scenario questions that I had to write answers to. Clearly it went well enough that I got called back for a second and final interview. It is scheduled for an hour in length, but I am unsure who it will be with and the format (I've sent an email asking about the format, so that I don't show up in a suit and then have to do a physical fitness test). I did my field training with this group and so I am quite familiar with the organization, and have meet many of the people before (if they remember me). But I REALLY want the job and so I am trying to put in as much effort as possible. Hopefully they'll let me know the format which will probably answer a few of my questions, but I was just trying to figure out the main goal of a second interview, which Chris (and others) have said to be the personal character and how well you fit within a company.

No. I was not told about the format of it. On Monday, ill shoot them an email and try to figure that out. In my line of work it could very well be a physical test, and I would like to know that before I wear my good suit.