Riley81

Three fingers and Whitehorse are the two peaks.

Nice Job. Looks like you beat me to the punch on the TR. I climbed it Friday the 6th and thought it was a great route! I would say the crux pitch it solid AI4 as it seemed quite vertical, especially with the marginal gear. I was able to find good rock anchors before and after ech technical pitch though which kept the whole affair pretty sane. Beatutiful route in a great location I'm gonna hijack your post now and add a few pics from my trip. Sunrise at Cascade Pass Looking up the frist technical ice pitch, heads up and right. Third technical pitch that heads up to the ridge Traversing the ridge.

Good job boys! Shits getting climbed this winter!

A proper freeze and it looks like Big 4 could have some nice alpine ice/mixed conditions.

Thanks for sharing your story and best of luck in the healing process. I agree with JasonG and will never casually setup a TR anchor with just one locker again. I think we all feel a sense of safety with a TR that may not be since there is only one point of protection for the entire system as opposed to when you are leading and have many points of protection in the system.

Offer up some ass, gas, and grass and you might find some takers.

Sweet man! Thanks for the TR! Didn't think there would be anything like that on Sunday. You don't want too much snow though because there is a very high avi potential on the slopes above the basin.

Yeah it was in last year.

Did the frenchmen know what happened last time you were up there?

Cam hooks work great at Index and you should use them whenever and wherever you can and feel like it. They are generally less harmful to rocks then placing say a #2-3 LA, which is a pin scar size that cam hooks generally fit well in. (unless it's sandstone, then just looking at the rock makes it crumble.)

Still looking for partners, have a few ideas lined up, but I'll be there for a while. Send a PM if interested.

“Never regret thy fall, O Icarus of the fearless flight For the greatest tragedy of them all Is never to feel the burning light.” -Oscar Wilde

I am planning on being in the valley from October 5th to 26th and am looking for partners. Will be predominantly looking to do longer aid routes, but enjoy any climbing in the valley and meeting new climbing partners. Send me a PM if interested. Danny

and fleece? Looks a tad shady this time of year. Also looks like a fine climb - glad it's catching on. The shade is what made it perfect for the hot day we climbed it on.

The first ascent of this route was done by the late great Chris Greyell may he rest in peace. He had a wonderful sense of humor.

Sick! Thanks for posting.

Mods please move this TR to the spray forum

I thought we decided on zinc strips across the top of the whole crag.

That's weird I was out there last year and cleaned up the trail, checked out a route I put up two years ago and it was still clean, and helped hanman put up a new route, didn't seem like too much had been lost to the moss.

Way to go fellas. I am going to assume you had some sort of magical foot numbing salve to get through all that climbing. 40+ pitches on one day and 30+ pitches on another! Good thing you took that rest day and climbed the engineers route. SICK!

It is direct, but still fairly runout on the easy parts.

Nice TR. That's an amazing climb, and it looks like you guys had an amazing time.

Willis wall doing its thing.

Great, time to head back out to work valley. Can't remember the last time I went out there without a 50+ lb pack and a drill.

I'm not sure anyone can give you good answers to any of your questions regarding conditions two weeks away right now. The cascades are quite variable in the spring months as was shown in a recent 20 degree jump in temps in one day, which has now plummeted back down to normal temps. My only piece of advice would be to watch the weather for freeze-thaw cycles as that is how spring ice generally forms in the Enchantments. Both of those climbs are still considered "in" when you are here so it is worth the time and effort to head up and check them out as long as it is not too warm. As for the road, it just opened up to the trailhead, and flotation is usually not necessary that time of year.