Riley81

Trip: Lincoln Peak - Wilkes-Booth Route (NW Face) Grade 4+ AI4+ Date: 3/13/2015 Trip Report: Lincoln Peak Wilkes-Booth Route (NW Face) AI4+ Grade 4+ ~2000 ft. FA- M. Rynkiewicz, D. Coltrane 3/13/2015 Michal Rynkiewicz and I climbed the NW face of Lincoln peak via a combination of glacial, alpine, and water ice, with steep snow fields and amazing ridge traversing mixed in. I was inspired to climb this route by a 2010 TR of Assassin Spire by the phenomenal Cascade hardman Tom Sjolseth. His trip report included a few choice picture of the NW face of Lincoln with big inspiring flows that would possibly lead to the summit of Lincoln. Given that and the great snow conditions we have been having this year I didn't really have a choice but to go out and give it a try. We were a little concerned with the warm temps and recent snow, but upon views of the start we couldn't resist. We climbed the route in a single push from the Heliotrope ridge trailhead ascending the NW face and descending the SW face (Standard) route. It was a big day and one of the most amazing routes I have had a chance to climb in the Cascades. I feel very fortunate to be blessed with outstanding partners and to be allowed passage by this amazing mountain. Sunrise on the Sisters Looking at first pitch on Descent. This is the same start as for Assassin Spire and the route shares the lower portion with Shooting Gallery until you get to the upper Ampitheatre. Starting up the first pitch. The upper half of this pitch is the crux with poorly protected overhanging ice of dubious quality. looking down at the overhanging glacier while cruising up through the first snow field. Vertical ice curtain headed up to the glacier. Michal climbing the glacier to gain the upper amphitheater. This was a fun step of glacial ice with good protection. First views of the ampitheatre. We climbed the obvious flow in the middle. It was about 120m of amazing WI3+ plastic ice like I have never seen in the Cascades. We climbed it in two long pitches. There are other climbs to be had along the face. Climbers right is a slightly easier variation that would traverse in to the main flow, and climbers left the gully would probably go with a bit of shenanigans at the top. Setting up an anchor for the first pitch. Michal Starting out the first pitch, this pitch was a full 70 meters with a little simuling on 60m ropes. this was the harder of the two pitches with a few vertical step of ice that had good features. So Much Ice! Starting out the second pitch. This was the easier of the two with one short 85 deg. section at the start and about 50m to the top of the flow. Cruising the upper snow field with the amphitheater below. Amazing ridge climbing along bomber snow and rime. Assassin Spire is the rocky spire down and right. Navigating the upper ridge to the first sub summit. From here we had to downclimb a short portion of rime ice to get to the last pitch to the summit. Looking back at the downclimb section. Such amazing position. Michal Working his way up the last technical pitch to the summit. Looking up the gulley to the summit. This was another full 60m pitch, but relatively easy. Summit Selfie! All that was left was getting off #2 on the hardest peaks in Washington. Just downclimb 2000 ft of steep snow... Out of the danger zone and glad to be heading back. From here we traversed back along the north side of the peak to Heliotrope ridge. Thanks again to my amazing partner for the commitment, and strength to get this huge climb done. Special thanks to The Tom Sjolseth for getting after it and sharing the stoke! I would have never known this was an option without his beta. Daniel Coltrane Gear Notes: 9 screws, 3 pickets, small rack to 2", set of Nuts, and small set of pins, 60m rope Mostly used screws and pickets. Approach Notes: Approached from Heliotrope ridge across the lower portion of the Thunder Glacier.

Three fingers and Whitehorse are the two peaks.

Nice Job. Looks like you beat me to the punch on the TR. I climbed it Friday the 6th and thought it was a great route! I would say the crux pitch it solid AI4 as it seemed quite vertical, especially with the marginal gear. I was able to find good rock anchors before and after ech technical pitch though which kept the whole affair pretty sane. Beatutiful route in a great location I'm gonna hijack your post now and add a few pics from my trip. Sunrise at Cascade Pass Looking up the frist technical ice pitch, heads up and right. Third technical pitch that heads up to the ridge Traversing the ridge.

Good job boys! Shits getting climbed this winter!

A proper freeze and it looks like Big 4 could have some nice alpine ice/mixed conditions.

Thanks for sharing your story and best of luck in the healing process. I agree with JasonG and will never casually setup a TR anchor with just one locker again. I think we all feel a sense of safety with a TR that may not be since there is only one point of protection for the entire system as opposed to when you are leading and have many points of protection in the system.

Offer up some ass, gas, and grass and you might find some takers.

Sweet man! Thanks for the TR! Didn't think there would be anything like that on Sunday. You don't want too much snow though because there is a very high avi potential on the slopes above the basin.

Yeah it was in last year.

Did the frenchmen know what happened last time you were up there?

Cam hooks work great at Index and you should use them whenever and wherever you can and feel like it. They are generally less harmful to rocks then placing say a #2-3 LA, which is a pin scar size that cam hooks generally fit well in. (unless it's sandstone, then just looking at the rock makes it crumble.)

Still looking for partners, have a few ideas lined up, but I'll be there for a while. Send a PM if interested.

“Never regret thy fall, O Icarus of the fearless flight For the greatest tragedy of them all Is never to feel the burning light.” -Oscar Wilde

I am planning on being in the valley from October 5th to 26th and am looking for partners. Will be predominantly looking to do longer aid routes, but enjoy any climbing in the valley and meeting new climbing partners. Send me a PM if interested. Danny

and fleece? Looks a tad shady this time of year. Also looks like a fine climb - glad it's catching on. The shade is what made it perfect for the hot day we climbed it on.

The first ascent of this route was done by the late great Chris Greyell may he rest in peace. He had a wonderful sense of humor.

Looking for either a Metolius el cap or a Black diamond Zion size bag.

Sick! Thanks for posting.

Mods please move this TR to the spray forum

I thought we decided on zinc strips across the top of the whole crag.

That's weird I was out there last year and cleaned up the trail, checked out a route I put up two years ago and it was still clean, and helped hanman put up a new route, didn't seem like too much had been lost to the moss.

Way to go fellas. I am going to assume you had some sort of magical foot numbing salve to get through all that climbing. 40+ pitches on one day and 30+ pitches on another! Good thing you took that rest day and climbed the engineers route. SICK!

It is direct, but still fairly runout on the easy parts.

Nice TR. That's an amazing climb, and it looks like you guys had an amazing time.

Willis wall doing its thing.