Riley81

It was pretty nice to see theose ASCA stamped hangers on Saber ledge when I climbed Canary this weekend. Thanks Kurt.

Thanks for sharing. I recall getting my ass kicked just getting to the southern pickets.

My condolences. That's a crummy part of life. Can't say I'm looking forward to when the time comes for my little pup.

Sounds like you've been busy lately. Way to get it buddy.

I like to carry a small crescent wrench for that stuff. I just hang it with my nut tool.

The mosquitos can be easy to forget with such great climbing.

Crazy potato farmers is more like it! and there are so many deer on the road at night one would be lucky not to get impaled by a set of antlers. They seem to just come straight for you.

Trip: Prusik Peak from Dragontail - Stanley-Burgner Date: 8/14/2011 Trip Report: After finishing up Backbone ridge Nelson (Gaucho) and I headed over to hit up the Stanley-Burgner route on Prusik. I was planing to meet a friend at prusik pass to make it a threesome, but he had to move on with his permit group and could only leave us with some extra cams to beef up our rack. We bivied at the start of the west ridge route only to find that the difference in mosquitos between here and our sweet ass bivy on Backbone ridge was night and day. Here they were HORRIBLE so we spent most of the evening in our bivies. We went to bed around 8:00 PM and hit the base of the route at 6:30 AM for an early start. Fortunatly it was warm which made the climbing bearable on the hands. I linked the first and second pitch, Nelson lead the third and fourth and I took the fifth and sixth pitch. Nelson heading out on the third pitch. Looking up the fourth pitch of chimney and crack climbing. I had been itching to battle the offwidth and was drooling over the final crux pitch ever since I looked down on it after climbing the west ridge route. Getting ready to squrim through the chockstone, make sure to haul your pack unless you are an octopus. Great view from the base of the flaring OW while Nelson waits for me to haul the pack. Definetly makes the section more enjoyable. Enjoying the long lower section of the final pitch. Best top out ever, ever. It was a quality sustained route that had a little bit of everything including a few difficult crux moves that put you right on the summit. The Flaring offwidth isn't that bad if you face the forthcoming ledge and do a knee to heel chimney move with your outside leg. I think the final pitch gets all the hulabalo because the crux is right at the top and it puts you right on the summit. Not many alpine routes stay susatained right to the summit of a mountain. Definetly 4 stars and something I would love to do again. Another view of the awesome final pitch. A little summit action. A little summit Pron. It was a great way to spend a weekend in the Mountains with a great partner, and even the ranger was farily generous about our circumstances if you know what I mean Gear Notes: Gear to #4 C4 doubles in the .75 to 2 C4 range and a set of stoppers. Long runners to link pitch 1-2 and 3-4 if your feeling it. Approach Notes: Climb Backbone ridge to avoid Asgard pass and snow creek trail

Trip: Elephants perch - Various Date: 8/8/2011 Trip Report: After responding to a partner request Powderhound and I set out on a little 3 day mission to the Sawtooths to get some good alpine granite in. Since we had a short amount of time we settled on the Elephants perch. I wanted to do the Mountaineers route and he had his eyes set on a little known route that was slightly adventerous. We left PDX around 4 and hit Stanley at 2:00 AM Monday night. Slept at a sweet spot he knew of just south of Stanley. Caught the boat at redfish around noon and were up at the perch by 2. After setting up at a spot with a nice view of the perch we headed up to do a quick jaunt up the MT. route. View from the boat heading up to Transfer camp. Nice views of the perch on the approach trail. The Elephants perch in all its Glory. The Mountaineers route is a pretty sweet little 7 pitch 5.9 that heads up the SW face. Pro was pretty good and the route finding was not to bad. I think we topped out around 9:00 PM in time to enjoy some beautiful sunset views. Since this was my first time here I decided to scramble the extra 400-500 feet to the summit instead of just traversing around to the descent gully. Looking up from the base of the route. Powdy following the third pitch. looking up the slabalicious 5th pitch. Pow-pow hitting the crux after linking the 6 and 7th pitch. Always getting the full value from the 70 meter string. Sweet sunset views from the summit. On Tuesday we went after Pacadermal plesantries 9 pitches 5.9 A2. This was a more adventurous route that didn't work out quite as planned. Due to a short overnight torential downpour the rock looked pretty wet in the morning and pushed back our departure time a little. Combine that with some difficult route finding on some loose and choosy rock and we got as far as the 5th A2 pitch. After P-hound finished the aid pitch we decided we didn't have the time to finish the following 4 "5.9" pitches and decided to bail. Powdog working a lovely 5.9 flaring offwidth section just before the aid pitch. YUMMY! After getting spanked off our slightly overly adventerous plans we decided to get back to a classic and hit Sunrise book on Wednesday. This climb was ridicuilous awesome. 5 pitches of sustained 5.9 and up crack climbing with a crazy traversing chimney and an ubberlong first pitch with a few hard face moves thrown in for good measure. We did the 5.10 C0 variaton of course. "5.12- my right eye" I took the first, third, and fourth pitches and Powdiddy took the second and fifth pitch. He was really eyeing the Bombay chimney and I was happy to let him lead it. A real scrunch fest. The full route, starts by coming from the right along a ledge. Good view of the 3rd through 5th pitch. The chimney is a little shorter and deeper than it looks. Looking down at Diggidy Pow working through the 5.9+ face moves on the first pitch. PH starting up the second pitch to work the aid section. Pretty stout for 5.8 C0. Looking up at the 5.10- crux pitch. Not sure which was harder this one or the third pitch. In the end I took about 6 or 7 whippers and fell on every pitch I climbed on this route. It was freaking awesome. We finished the book around 2:30 and decided we might as well get a jump on the ride home. We headed down to transfer camp to catch the 7:00 PM boat and made it there around 6:30. A nice family out wakeboarding offered us a ride back to the lodge but we said no were catching the boat. Unfortunatly for us we had never transferd over to Mt. time and it was actually 7:30 PM when we got to the dock. Alas no boat that night. But left early Thursday morning and were back in PDX by 7:00ish ready fro the next adventure... Great trip with a great partner. BTW there is no good climbing in Idaho. Gear Notes: Pick a route and get the beta. Approach Notes: Easy main trail and farily easy climbers trail up to a plethora of sweet camping spots by the lake.

It was definetly a sweet trip and a good way to avoid hiking up Asgard. Glad I had a 5 and 6 for the OW. Thanks for the vote of confidence. Couple extra pics for the viewing as well: Great views of the Fin from our bivy spot. Little route map showing the highlights. Go on th farside of the first gendarme at the top of the fin or suffer through choss central.

I love that solution!

I supposed to meet a friend for the Stanley Burgner on Sunday so I kinda need to try to get the permit. Would you want to do that on sunday and something like Backbone ridge on D-tail on saturday? If the permit fell through we could still use the N ridge as a fall back plan. PM me if you'd like to put something along those lines together.

Looking for a partner to head out to Leavenworth on Friday 8/12 in the morning and try to lotto in for a permit for the weekend. Would stay till Saturday or Sunday. Down to climb whatever.

Checkout Orange wall or Post Modern wall, both have some pretty good routes. Moutain projects link This was my fun experience out there. Banks Lake TR I thought seam-iotics was an especially good climb as wall as good rock. If you want a guide book pickup Rock climbs of central washington. It has all this stuff plus more boat accessed stuff. REI book link

Sweet looking trip! Where can I get one of those pencils?

Mt Adams Climbing Report

Route goes up to the right. The one/two bolts on the route are to the right of the older scar. Can't imagine that it has affected the route. You should be good to go.

Roc pec is good for a few bolts, but eventually you might hit your hand on the small guard. The fixe is a little heavier, but much less of a chance of hitting your hand since it has a fatty guard. I've got a fixe and I like it pretty well. Another important thing to think about is your hammer, a heavier hammer can make drilling go alot quicker, but do you want to haul the extra weight? Can't say I don't perfer a nice power drill though. :

Here is a picture of the rockfall Hanman is mentioning. (brown scar directly below old scar that changed the blueberry route) It is amazing how much seepage there has been up there this late in the year. Generally one would think that most of this type of rockfall would occur in April through early june, but the last snow season has caused a lot of unusual occurances in the outdoors.

Looks like a sweet piece of granite. Thanks for the idea for a fun Idaho trip!

I gotta say it's a little funny that the guy in the photo looks nothing like the two guys you showed up with that night at exfo dome. A little like a bear, but nothing like a care bear.

Great TR Tyson. Always good adventure to be had in Durrington. Thanks for taking out those trees, thought it looked different on the way down. Definetly have to take weedwhacker to that road soon so I can stop scratching up my sube heading up to the dome.

To me it reads that there has to be a sign that says area closed. No sign no closure. I would think you would need to rope the area off as well, or you could claim that you came in to the are from a non-signed location. Every law has a loophole.

I was able to get across with my 06 outback, but water was coming over the hood for a short period. I didn't see the usual quantity of people camping past the creek, but there were some light trucks that made it past. I would not attempt it in a sedan. The water level is definetly higher this year now then it was last year a month previous when I was out there.

Good to here some more people are getting out and enjoying that Monolith of Granite. Rainman has worked really hard on putting up some great routes out there that I have had the fortune to enjoy. I climbed Excaliber last October with Benmurphy and was stoked after the getting the crux pitch clean, and the excalibur flake is very fun and physical climbing. Though I have a fear that the block just below and right of the Excalibur flake pitch may not be long for this world. The abundance of chickenheads on that plate doesn't fit in with the smoother granite surrounding it. Fortunatly the belay is just above it. Great TR. Flake is just right and just below the Excalibur flake.