giza

I don't know how to post a .jpe image, but here's a photo of the BS col from August 10th, two days before the slide: http://six.pairlist.net/pipermail/mcr/attachments/20090813/c39fb91a/attachment.jpe The approach around the S face of Snowpatch via the Snowpatch Pigeon col looks like the way to go..... http://six.pairlist.net/pipermail/mcr/attachments/20090813/c39fb91a/attachment-0001.jpe

I'd be surprised if you couldn't find water between the memorial and the start of the route, either from a melting remnant snowpatch or from runoff further up.

More pics North ridge with Tantalus in the clouds Sean on lead approaching summit

nice work fellas

Pm sent for screws

Sick yo that hogan dude is hella badasssssss

Will this watch make me more hardcore?

Sorry for the drift - why don't you look into Crossfit? I know some people who've seen big gains from the program. As far as i know there are two crossfit gyms in van - one d/t and the other near Clark. Worth looking into if you want to tear shit up.

G-spotter, what's it like dodging bullets out there in gangland? I heard that the Bacon Brothers have taken control of Pick-a-Part, Dinoland, and the Tim Horton's on Vedder rd. That's some 'wack shit yo

In summary, Americans should not visit Canada because it is like a third-world socialist country whose citizens say 'eh' a lot, like beer, and grow the dank chronic. You're likely to get better health care service in Haiti or Rwanda. If you come to Canada you could DIE!!! Stay home - leave Canada to the savages.

bump

pm sent

But doesn't Bill Gates own a majority share of Apple? I understand that if his family had Apple products it would appear that he endorses them, but he owns everything!!

thanks for links fettster

Nice work fellas! After seeing you at the Rambles we climbed Isadorth - it was in decent shape but no harder than 2+. The previous day we climbed the lower half of Belmore Gully, which didn't exceed grade 2 in difficulty. We walked off on climber's right. Upper pitches looked adventurous, fat, and steeper. My partner, who had only climbed ice twice before this weekend, swapped leads with me while climbing in flexible leather hiking boots and strap-on, hinged, Salewa 10 point glacier crampons. I am amazed not only by the size of his cajones but by what he was able to do with non-technical gear. As mentioned on westcoastice.com, approach is currently easy to both Belmore and Isadorth - park directly across from them on the hwy and cross Cayoosh creek using snow/ice bridges.

haha you are a perv Dru. How can you take this thread to 'that' place? Deeply twisted......

PM sent

Looking for partner(s) to climb ice in the Pemberton/Duffy/Lillooet area this weekend. Have car and will be leaving from Vancouver. Send me a PM.

Scarpa Spirit sz 31 at MEC. Not sure but if you're lucky the inner boot size options may be 31 and 31.5... edit: BTW, I wear sz 48 Scarpa mountaineering boots and was sized for a sz 29 AT boot during a boot fitting session. So maybe you can squeeze into a 31 and be comfortable after head molding.

This behavior is limited to residents of the Fraser Valley. You'll know you're there when you smell shit and hear dueling banjos.

Fellas, IMO anti-American sentiment in Canada is directed toward U.S. political figures and foreign policy, not the American people. Thefts and vandalism occur everywhere. Don't worry about getting stuff ripped off in Canada. Thieves and vandals are as likely to target a vehicle with U.S. plates as they are Canadian plates. Use common sense and 'fly under the radar'. If your gear is in your vehicle do your best to hide it. Don't advertise the fact that you're a climber or skier by plastering your vehicle with stickers - you'll attract attention. The only thing I've ever had stolen from my car was a pack of cigarettes that were on the dashboard while parked at the Grand Wall parking lot in Squamish.

Canadians will break into your car for cigarette butts, steal your tent from a campsite, siphon your gas, scam your fancy Arcteryx jacket from the front seat of your car, smoke your weed and steal your girl. They are the lowest of the low...

Dane, you briefly mentioned North Twin above. A friend of mine shattered his elbow on an attempt of the North face of North Twin. Whenever I want to get scared I read this: It is, hands down, the hardest face in the range. Five thousand feet of sheer, black, and north facing limestone, steeper than the Eiger, one and a half times as high as El Cap, a great dark cape of a peak. Hundred foot seracs calve thunderously and with violence from its belly, wisps of water ice hang from its brow like icicles tacked to a ship’s prow, and rockfall darkened icefields foot its soaring pillars. Then there is the loose rock and the falling rock ... at times it makes the Eiger look like a kiddies sandbox. Climbers are familiar with almost every crack on El Cap, yet, after thirty years of attempts solely two routes have been established up the shadowland of North Twin; mystery unmarred, aura enhanced by each and every one of the vanquished. The dog days of August, 1974, George Lowe and Chris Jones venture onto the Twin in full-on Eiger Sanction mode: full shanked leather boots, wool knickers, and Dachstein mitts, nylon tops. They find climbing similar to the hardest ground in the Dolomites (5.10, A4) yet their situation, in what local climbers refer to as the “Black Hole” of the Canadian Rockies, is far more serious than any climb in the Dolomites. They are a full day of mountainous travel from the nearest road, and once past the first quarter of the wall, rescue--even given today’s techniques--is impossible; furthermore, the wall they are on is glaciated, vertical to overhanging, and brazed with alpine ice. The Readers Digest version is that there is really nothing comparable to North Twin in the Alps. George and Chris strive; wet blowing snow frequently smears slush onto the holds. On the fifth day they are battered by hail and George “goofs-up” a hop step while waiting for Chris to remove and send up a piton from the belay; George falls 30 feet and loses the critical aid placement of the pitch. They are 4,000 feet up the wall. That night, their fifth on the wall, neither man sleeps until 3 a.m.. When they admit to each other that they no longer have enough gear to retreat and that there is no chance of a rescue, they agree that there are no options; if they are to survive they have to climb. The dawn of day six brings swirling clouds and snow. George leads an improbable and time consuming traverse across a snow-peppered slab then escapes into an ice runnel that he gains by liebacking the edge of a roof and pressing his knees into the remains of the winter’s snow/ice! Falling snow matures into hail, avalanches run, George leads through the storm for 15 pitches on ice. They have all of three ice screws. Chris and George summit and set-up their small tent right there and accumulating snow collapses the tent twice in the night. Writing in Ascent Chris stated that he and George had crossed an indefinable line and that on their eighth day out, searching for their descent by compass atop the Columbia Icefield, the brief glimpse of helicopter and warden Hans Fuhrer’s words, diced by the rotor, “ARE YOU OK?” “We realized someone cared about us, that we were not alone ... tears ran down my face.” I’ll suggest that, in 1974, the route that George and Chris opened on the North Face of North Twin was the hardest alpine route in the world. I believe that nothing then accomplished in Patagonia, the Alps, Alaska or the Himalaya measured up to what George and Chris accomplished with “a rope, a rack, and two packs.” Further, I’ll assert that George Lowe has contributed every bit as much to the evolution of alpine style climbing as Reinhold Messner ... and perhaps more. THE NORTH FACE OF NORTH TWIN, TOUCHSTONE OF THE RANGE By Barry Blanchard COURTESY OF THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL, 2002 VOL. 44 FROM TEN CLIMBS TO REMEMBER - PAGE 29

pm sent for BD Carbon Fiber Black Prophet ice tool.

$$$ Looking for winter mountaineering or plastic double boots for ice climbing. Depending on make and model I'm between sz 12.5 - 13.5 (euro 47 - 48).