Tom Fralich

Trip: Forbidden Peak - West Ridge Date: 6/12/2009 Trip Report: Bill Ayers and I climbed the West Ridge from a camp in Boston Basin. The route is in excellent condition and completely snow-free. The road is still gated at the Eldorado Trailhead, but the work crew told us they hope to have the road open by July 3. The trail to Boston Basin has minimal snow until about 300 ft below the basin, but is difficult to follow in spots due to heavy debris. We had better luck following the trail on the way down. The snow was generally well consolidated getting up to the couloir. We never sunk in more than shin deep and the cramponing on the avalanche debris leading to the couloir was surprisingly good. Bergshrund crossing is easy, with steps in place in the couloir above. Some loose gravelly stuff led to the ridge. The ridge is dry and climbable in rock shoes or boots. We down-climbed most of the ridge, making 3 rappels from obvious fixed anchors. The couloir was easily downclimbed, but softening and balling at 10AM. Descent back to camp was quick (less than 1 hour). We didn't have a camara, so there are no photos. Gear Notes: Small rack to 2 inches. Approach Notes: 2.5 hours to Boston Basin with some tricky routefinding where the trail is obscured by debris.

We did Ice Cliff on 6/8 and it was pefect. A bit soft on the descent, but fast.

We did it from a lower camp at 5,600 ft on 6/4/09. The route is probably done now, though. The lower ice pitch was total slush and falling down as we were climbing. It looked possible to get past it on some easy mixed terrain to the left. Comparing the photos from Sunday with how it looked today, I'd say it won't make it to the weekend.

Sol...do you have any more details on Ice Cliff? Also, did you get a sense of how much snow is on the north ridge? I'd love to get up Stuart on this trip. Would you say that Ice Cliff is the best bet right now? I'd be up for doing SGC, Ice Cliff, or N Ridge.

What about camping lower at 5,400 ft and then going really early on the 2nd day?

Hey all, Planning some alpine routes over the next 2 weeks and looking to possibly start with Eldorado on Wed/Thur. Do you think it's still hanging in there? Also, which way did you guys approach? Eldorado Creek or Sibley Creek? Thanks a ton. -Tom

Heading north to Seattle and looking to climb Hood on the way through. I'll do any route except the normal...prefer Leuthold Couloir or Sandy Headwall. I can do it on Thur or Friday...or Thur/Fri with a bivy for Sandy if preferred. Send me a PM if interested.

I'll be spending some time in the NW before starting residency in Fresno and I need a partner from May 22 until June 3. I'll be driving up from Fresno on May 21, so I could provide a ride if needed from anywhere along the route. I'd be up for doing something in Oregon (maybe Sandy Headwall) and pretty much anything in WA (up to AI4 and 5.9). I'm happy to climb easier routes as well. Send me a PM if interested or e-mail to tjf24@columbia.edu. I have 10 years of experience in trad and alpine (see my profile on SummitPost for details).