tvashtarkatena

11 or 12 70 m raps; redundant anchors were all there already (fixed pro mostly) but bringing some replacement slings might be a good idea. Around 14 hours, I think.

I've added two videos to the TR: our landing on the Root Canal Glacier and a panorama from our camp. Here's a still panorama from camp as well:

I've added the following videos to the TR: a panorama from the summit of Mt. Francis and our takeoff from Denali basecamp.

Trip: Mt. Hunter, Mt. Francis - Minimoonflower, E Rdg of Francis, W Rdg of Francis Date: 5/15/2008 Trip Report: (Narrator’s Note: We last left the two dog-faced boys at Denali base camp, after their crash course in Alaskan meteorology while on the Moose’s Tooth) We’re living proof that anyone with $550 and a hockey bag can suddenly find themselves clinging to some of the baddest mountains on earth. You don’t come to the Alaska Range to conquer; you come to get away with whatever you can. Some get very good at this, like the party who flashed all 35 pitches of Moonflower Buttress on Mt. Hunter this year in a blistering 40 hours. Others, who suck like us, are lucky if they can sneak their way up a few pitches of Minimoonflower; Mt. Hunter’s most benign offering. Still others, like Japanese hardmen Tatsuro Yamada and Yuto Inoue, are swallowed whole by the spectacular landscape, never to be seen again. The range takes all comers with timeless indifference; sponsor-clad Spanish women in matching red will lose their toes, clueless dad’s who leave their teenager’s behind unattended to wander around aimlessly at base camp will lose their climbing permits, and certain Washingtonians will lose an ice screw, an ATC, and a few pounds off their middle aged guts. The Alaska Range simply means MORE: more crevasses, more snow, more weather, more avalanches, more cold. If one learns nothing else, one learns that. After another difficult, sled assisted approach; nearly 100 yards dragging our duffels uphill to a pre-dug campsite, Gene and I set about doing home improvements. I did what Irishmen do second best: I started digging. By the time I was done, we could have fought a trench war from our kitchen and latrine. After a lazy weather day lounging in our luxurious VE25, the sun came out too late for climbing, so Gene and I went up glacier to check out the Minimoonflower route on Mt. Hunter. Unlike the south face of the Moose’s Tooth, this north facing route looked like it was in excellent shape. Denali, from camp. The east ridge of Francis begins on the left. Foraker, from the base of Hunter Quarks: no kitchen is complete without one For our first objective, we decided to climb the descent route (the east ridge) of Mt. Francis to take advantage of a questionable forecast. Another party was in line for Minimoonflower, and we had no interest in another day of playing Dodge the Fucking Huge Ice Chunk. The day was spectacular, and the route straightforward. I only punched through two crevasses, which, unlike here in the Cascades, have a way of straddling ridge crests. The summit was cold, windy, and utterly amazing. Denali, from the East Ridge of Francis Alaska gnar gnar: Gene on the Mt. Francis’ windy summit. The author doing what he does best on the summit of Mt. Francis. Foraker in the back ground. A panoramic video from the summit of Mt. Francis. In order of appearance: Hunter, Foraker, Crosson, Denali. ZuLF9_8yLA8 We finally got our perfect day, got over some of our testicular atrophy, and headed up glacier towards Minimoonflower on Mt. Hunter. It was clear and very cold. The ice was old, rock hard, and sustained; hanging belays only. It was difficult to chop even narrow ledges. A few light spindrift avalanches, but nothing like the Moose’s Tooth. The huge overhanging mushrooms clinging to the shear rock overhead were considerate enough to not rain death down on us. Minimoonflower, Mt. Hunter Gene on the ramp of Minimoonflower Further up route After six 70 m pitches, we looked up at the crux; very thin ice over vertical rock with an overhanging mixed traverse, demurred and called it good. We doubled up the existing v threads and rapped down. For you hardmen out there: Moonflower Buttress on Mt. Hunter. Minimoonflower is to the far left. Mt. Crosson, sporting a baby lenticular. One must first summit Crosson to gain the Foraker’s infamous Sultana Ridge route. No one had yet successfully summited Foraker in 2008 as of our visit. I spent our a couple of rest days skiing up the Kahiltna to the next climber’s camp and taking photos. Every (good weather) day, otters would disgorge more climbers, who would then pack up and drag cheap plastic sleds laden with large duffels up the Kahiltna. From afar they looked like tugs with barges plying an undulating sea of shimmering white. A large storm was forecasted for our departure day, so decided to climb the southwest ridge of Francis, then fly out a day early. The weather was perfect; we waiting until about 9:30 for it to warm up a bit (a luxury of 24 hour daylight), and started up the arduous one hour approach across gently rolling glacier. The route is a must do; a spectacular convoluted ridge with solid rock, fun mixed, and a dicey little ice traverse under a huge cornice for spice. T shirt weather and beautiful rock on the West Ridge of Francis Looking down on the Kahiltna (W Rdg of Francis) The author on the W Rdg of Francis Kahiltna Glacier (W Rdg of Francis) Kahiltna Glacier (W Rdg of Francis) Too much fun in the sun (W Rdg of Francis) More spectacular views (W Rdg of Francis) Goodbye sunshine, hello snowstorm. The author traversing beneath the large cornice on the false summit (W Rdg of Francis) The weather came in that afternoon. By the time we were negotiating the final mile of ridgetop, we were in a full whiteout. Fortunately, we had a previous parties tracks to follow. The following day the weather was changeable, but we were able to fly out. It was a good thing; there were parties in Talkeetna who waited 5 days to fly in vain afterwards. Eerie weather on Mt. Hunter Avalanche, Mt. Hunter. For a sense of scale, note the camp a mile up glacier from the photographer. Our takeoff from Denali base camp: LtHctT41xPE Gene got an early flight home to rejoin his wife and one year old. I stayed in Talkeetna to await the arrival of my friend Don, who was flying up to join me for some skiyaking in Prince William Sound. More on that later. Gear Notes: Spam, Spam, and more Spam. And bacon. Sleds provided at Denali base camp.

Trip: Talkeetna - Date: 5/25/2008 Trip Report: No northern exposure would be complete without visiting Talkeetna, where the women smell strong, the men are in trouble with the FAA , and the children are feral. Whether it’s listening to Jerry Garcia in a ranger’s uniform berate the Germans for screwing up the “This is Denali” video presentation, shaking your black sweat pants at the Fairview, or enjoying an ice cream and cigarette down by the river, Talkeetna is always a good time. So drop off your poo can, slip on your Xtratuffs, and join me for a quick tour of Alaska’s Gateway to The Mountain. The Alaskan wilderness is temporarily beaten into submission by a motley array of machines that somebody got a good deal on, which take on a second life as yard art after losing their final bout. Who among us who grew up watching James West kicking post civil war ass in his 1870’s stretch pants wouldn’t want to live in a railcar? This one came standard with toxic lead based paint, and so was uninhabitable. Apparently there was a no returns policy. When your dish is bigger than your cabin, you can bet your friends will be over to watch the Vogon Volleyball Worlds, live from the Andromeda Galaxy. Alaska’s most ubiquitous machine. Be careful who you fly with however; you might find yourself upside down on a 40 foot long gravel bar surrounded by 39 degree whitewater 50 miles from the nearest dirt road… …in need of another propeller. An evening at the river: Hunter, Foraker, Denali, arctic terns, and dog shit. Gear Notes: Xtratuffs, black sweat pants, check shirt, chamo ball cap. Lab or Supercub optional.

Trip: Alaska, from Above and Below - Date: 5/11/2008 Trip Report: Alaska, with its expressive, endless light, mercurial weather, raw landscapes, and frenetic springs, can seem like an alien world full of accidental, often abstract art forms. Whether viewed through the omniscience of an aircraft window or the intimacy of a macro lens, it is a place which never fails to stun any visitor with open eyes and a willing mind. Alaska Range Willow catkins (Talkeetna) Rock glacier sinkhole (Kahiltna Glacier snout) Skunk Cabbage (Culross Island, Prince William Sound) Crevasses (Kahiltna Glacier) Bracket Fungi (Talkeetna) River meanders (Talkeetna) Lichen (Chugach State Park) Snowmobile tracks (Talkeetna) Blossoms (Talkeetna) River ice (Talkeetna) Tidewater granite (Deep Water Bay, Prince William Sound) Rock glacier sinkholes (Kahiltna Glacier, Alaska Range) Muskeg (Chugach State Park) Alaska Range Bracket Fungi (Talkeetna) Game trails and waterways (Talkeetna) Horsetail (Talkeetna) Devil’s Club (Talkeetna) Tidal shale (Passage Canal, Prince William Sound) Moss, fungal ring (Chugach State Park)

Trip: The Moose's Tooth - Ham and Eggs Date: 5/12/2008 Trip Report: TR: The Moose’s Tooth (Ham and Eggs) The Alaska Range from the air “Avalanche!” Jesus, not again. I sunk my tools, lowered my head, closed my eyes, and hung on. First a loud whoosh, then a chilling surf of spindrift, sifting through every fold, every opening, 10 seconds; still going, 20 seconds, abating a bit, then silence. I brushed a foot of fine powder from my head, shoulders, and arms. After 15 seconds or so, another loud whoosh from above. “Here it comes again!” The snow and wind were steadily worsening, as were the spindrift avalanches. I brought Gene up. He turned to me. “Getting schooled by Alaska.” We topped out at the col after twelve pitches, and decided that gale force winds might not make for a very good ridge traverse to the summit. Both of us were climbing with everything we had on, including our puffies, and we were not warm. Kevin and Andy, the only other party on the mountain, had gone on, but eventually turned around due to dangerous, unprotectable sublimated ice and extremely high winds. They put a few dents in my new helmet, but fortunately their aim wasn’t on that day. So went day 1 in the Alaska Range. We’d been rushed onto a flight into the Root Canal Glacier to slip through a closing weather window. While in Talkeetna we ran into some familiar faces, waiting for a hop into the Revelations. Waiting for weather The flight was like a phantasmagorical hallucination; more spectacular than my brain could possibly process. I dragged The Gretsky, a hockey bag I’d just acquired from the Anchorage Salvation Army, a whole hundred yards from the idling deHavilland beaver and began to set up camp. Rough approach, but that’s Alaska. Beaver’s eye view (Kevin riding shotgun) Moulons from the air A video of our landing on the Root Canal Glacier: XsCUNFrHPIw The Gretsky has landed Nice beaver Kevin from Colorado, sponsored by Walmart: Cooler in one hand, poo can in the other. Denali from the Root Canal Glacier A panorama from our camp: 4GxzNvG-85I Our camp At 3:00 am we woke up to a white out, and zipped ourselves back into our bags. At 7:30, the weather appeared to be clearing, with just enough clouds to keep the route cold. Oh, it stayed cold all right. Our route (from camp) Gene enjoying a fine Alaskan spring day on route Andy from Colorado savoring a refreshing spindrift shower on the overhanging crux. Gene had trouble dragging a large pair of balls over the lip, which required searching desperately for a solid stick in the sublimated mush while dancing on two crampon points fingernailed to vertical rock. The view while descending An evening panorama Back at camp Denali frontage Looking down upon the Ruth Glacier Amphitheatre Ham and Eggs was not in good shape; too late in the season. Shaken Not Stirred looked worse, with whole pitches bare of ice. Based on some favorable reports elsewhere, we opted to move house. After stomping out a fresh runway, and otter gathered us up, dropped our colleagues Andy and Kevin off in the Ruth Amphitheatre for their (successful) attempt on Peak 11300, and flew us to Denali base camp on the Kahiltna for our attempts of Minimoonflower on Mt. Hunter and the Southwest Ridge of Mt. Francis. Gear Notes: Big comfy tent, lots of clothes, Walmart cooler, and a can to poo in. Approach Notes: Brutal. At least 100 yards.

Did the previous owners throw in the wall butterflies?

With or without the axles?

What the fuck is this, Jenny Craig? STFU, midget. Nobody gives a shit about your Allbran diet.

Scott Hall. He was one of my students during my Mountie days. Really great guy.

Fuck this, that, and the other thing. And another thing; fuck that, too. Fuck fucking fucks and the fucked up fuckers who fuck them.

Fuck all militant CC chicks. (I wish).

Your knees are on your face? Is that due to nature or nurture?

Fuck tely (primadonnas), fuck AT (yuppie day hikers), fuck splitboard (if you can afford 'em, you're too fucking old for 'em, granpa). Mini skis with universal bindings: 84 cm x 110mm. That's where it's at now. Anything else is SOOOO last year.

yes, at least until Colombia shuts down their supply chain.

STFU you God-hating lesbo libtard sporto

Jesus, you DO sound like a meth head. Have you seen any Treeples, lately? What do you do when your Crank Bug gets real bad? I've been going into the woods all over the world since 1970 and I have yet to meet anyone who required anything more than a 'hello'. I guess you get back what you project.

Maybe I SHOULD start packin.

A friend of mine was commuting to Everett when a chunk of cement the size of his torso came through the windshield, fortunately on the passenger side; dropped from an overpass that was being worked on. Hey, sorry 'bout that, man!

Judges can be wrong and ignorant of history, just like anyone else. A quick read of some of other quotes from our learned judges reveals that in spades. No one knows how long homosexual unions have been recognized and accepted. The Cheyenne accepted them. The Greeks accepted them (with Alexander the Great being their prime example). England has been 100% gay for centuries. Historically, the U.S. attitude towards such may well be 'abnormal', not the other way around. The judges here are simply ignorant of history, no more.

And then again there are all those recent court decisions, but let's not let real events get in the way of opinion....

I think you are missing the point Tvash. The "groundswell" to legalize gay marriage??? What is this groundswell you speak of??? Every time the issue has been put to a vote - "marriage" that is - the vote has been against gay marriage. So the groundswell you speak of is not popular opinion, it would seem. This is not an issue of the people vs. "the church", this is the courts declaring that californias law which reflected the will of the people - as indicated by popular vote, is unconstitutional. California, our most populous state, passing legislation like this (in addition to other states) constitutes a groundswell by any measure. If you'll carefully read my posts, you'll realize that I refered to recent court cases, not the California law, when framing the religious issue. You've cited an argument I never made.

Most of the litigation in question was filed by congregation members, not outsiders. They were gay, but whether or not they would 'libs' was not mentioned in any of the accounts I read. There are no churches today that (openly) disciminate based on race. That is a much more accurate comparitive measure to the issue at hand than divorce status or other exclusions. KKK meetings are private affairs, not open to the public. Entirely different animal.

Hey Cap'n Tolerance. You won't want go down to California....a whole bunch of JEWS live there! I'd come up with a better comeback, but I've got to run...to have dinner with a bunch of Jews.