rob

Silvretta bindings, on sale Too bad I'm out of cash

Dude, Kev, I'm getting so sick of your "if you don't like bolts, it's ego" thing. Take hiking...my wife is an avid hiker. Does that mean she would enjoy walking the length of 405, hiking along the shoulder? I mean, any REAL hiker would LOVE hiking along a freeway, right? God, I want to like you but sometimes you sound like such a dickface. I didn't realize you were such a sporto.

plus, I'd worry about crossloading the biner against the anchor.

Don't thank the author, thank god. "Thank you, God."

A guy I was in a band with had a bike accident at that same spot -- broke his collar bone.

We joined 6mm static cord with a 10.2 mm single rope using a triple fisherman knot. We had no problems, other than a single stuck rope (caused by the knot creeping into the rap ring and sticking). We alleviated this problem on subsequent raps by placing the knot on the other side of the anchor (i.e. pull skinny) so that the knot would creep away from the rings instead of into them. The knot crept about 12-16 inches per rap, despite best efforts to prevent it.

Because it's not in the alpine lakes wilderness?

Err, I think you have it backwards? You want the thicker rope through the rap rings. Anyway, that's how we ended up doing it after getting it stuck, and it worked for another 8 or 9 raps or so. I don't think it's so much due to rope stretch, but due to the ropes being different diameters and passing through your device at different rates -- i.e. the rope didn't "Stretch tight" -- it actually slid and moved until the knot got caught. When we placed the knot on the other side of the rings (i.e. pull skinny), the knot continued to move, but it moved away from the rap rings, instead of into them.

good thing someone let you borrow their whisperlite

I had a stuck rope due to this behavior once. The skinny rope got pulled into the rap ring and the knot got stuck. Two people couldn't get it unstuck, I had to jug back up and fix it.

Anyway, why do they call it stealth rubber? Is that so the mountain won't hear you sneaking up on it?

That's not my lucky green snot rag wrapped around your head, is it?

These guys must be from Seattle.

Woah, not only are we all land-speculating yacht-owners, but we're also narcissistic? SNAP!

One time, while rapping on a triple fish, I couldn't reach the next rap anchor because I had unwittingly used an extra 4 inches of rope tying my knots! Oh noes! I had to extend my rope with 6mm cord (tied with quadruple fishermans, of course), pass the knots and then hang off the ends of the cord with my teeth to reach the next anchor. Whew! Next time, I'm tying double fishes for sure.

This problem is corrected with a subtle adjustment of the location of your chalk bag.

I generally use a triple fisherman's when joining two ropes of different diameters. I don't know if a double is less safe, but I feel better with that extra wrap so that's what I do.

I'm still looking to find a suit made entirely out of stealth rubber, for those tricky friction problems and OW elbow jams. Suit up, throw myself against the rock like a wet sock, and slurp my way up like an inch worm. WTF, now I'm a cheater?

Just remember, despite whatever Jim tells you, there is no sex in the champagne room.

I've been hearing this a lot lately. "Oh man, Index was totally crowded. It ROCKED!" Weirdo.

Anybody done this route? How was the rock? What was your descent? TIA

keep an eye on that forecast for Monday, dude, it's starting to turn sketch

I have a few forged friends in larger sizes, they work good for me. I prefer them to my friend's large BD's, and they're lighter.

Yeah, I know, short notice anybody up for a quick day at Index tomorrow morning until noonish?

Laser. In your eye. Dude, what more do you need to know?