ScaredSilly
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I can vaguely remember that short. Gotta remember to blow des doigts after a dip in the chalk.
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[TR] Mt Hood - Cathedral Ramp - FA 04/17/2021
ScaredSilly replied to zaworotiuk's topic in Oregon Cascades
When writing a description one wants concise details that makes it easy for others to find all of the information needed. Which of those three routes would one who is unfamiliar wth the area search for to learn about the finish??? The right side gully is primary route, the others including this one are variations. If there is something relevant about the other routes, such as the Ramp and Pencil joining up then list them as you did. -
[TR] Mt Hood - Cathedral Ramp - FA 04/17/2021
ScaredSilly replied to zaworotiuk's topic in Oregon Cascades
Looks a bit popular and crowded ... :-) Suggestion on the MP description: Current : From the end of P4, continue up ~500 vertical feet of snow, ice, and easy mixed to the summit. This portion of the route is shared with Right Gully, Ravine, and The Pencil. Suggested: From the end of P4 continue up remaining ~500 vertical feet of the Right Gully Route to the summit. That is list the primary route, the fact that other "variations" join in are moot. -
[TR] Middle Sister - Emde/Ablao 03/06/2021
ScaredSilly replied to bedellympian's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Nice, I have always thought there was good climbing on the more obscure faces on the Sisters. -
Good article ... basically it comes down to being honest if you are going to boast. With the need to claim one's frame (aka mouth masturbation) the boasting becomes bloated. The first time I "summited" on Rainier, we reached the summit crater but not Columbia Crest. When we were checking out with the rangers they asked if we summited. We said no and that we had only reached the summit crater. The ranger just laughed and said that was where most people stopped and that we had summited. We felt slightly better about our ascent. The next time I "summited" on Rainier I was damn well going make sure I really reached the summit and walked around whole summit crater. Since then there has been only one ascent on Rainier where we finished the route but did not reach one of the three high points.
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What I want to know is how many different tools he had stashed in his pack. And but of course time to stop at the pub on the way home.
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[TR] North Sister - Complete East Buttress 12/23/2020
ScaredSilly replied to bedellympian's topic in Oregon Cascades
As much as I love Hood for its easy access, there is so much adventure climbing to be had on the other volcanos. -
Quit yer bitching youth. My last trip in the Casades the average age was over 60 with one damn near 70.
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Wy'East Gear and Experience Requirements: Should I climb it?
ScaredSilly replied to GranolaEater93's topic in Newbies
Wy'East route is a good route but as said the the rocky area might be more than you want. An alternative is the Mazama (aka West Crater Rim) route. Not really off the beaten path but away from the typical south side clown show. It can have some any danger. If you were going with some more experienced climbers then the Wy'East would be worth considering. Also study the descent off Hood for white out conditions. -
Bend climber dies on the north side of Mt. Hood
ScaredSilly replied to ScaredSilly's topic in Oregon Cascades
Having been on Sunshine in October and having caught a fall on ice I can say the same about Copper's Spur in October. The top of the spur was ice. Though solo with a single axe, I was competent enough to climb through it. I will admit that I descended the S. Side and walked around via the Newton Clark back to Cloud Cap cause gong down Cooper's Spur was not going to happen. It was a lovely walk around - so lovely I did again after doing the N. Face gulley. -
Sounds like a fall and tumble into a crevasse: https://ktvz.com/news/bend/2020/10/29/air-and-ground-search-underway-for-missing-bend-climber-on-mount-hood/
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question Bibler Big Wall I-Tent - value?
ScaredSilly replied to AlaskaNative's topic in The Gear Critic
Your best bet is to just put it up for sale on on CC and MP. Could also list on fleabay. Here is a prototype from 13 years ago on CC: -
Foiled again: https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/british-columbia/sea-to-sky-gondola-vandalism-2020-1.5723042
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Not sure if folks have been following the fires but Mt. Jefferson is getting hit hard by the Lionshead fire. https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/incident/7049/ At this point Jeff Park (Whitewater Trailhead) is gone with the fire burning right up to timberline. The Pamela Lake area has not yet been burned. Much the of the Detroit Lake is gone as well.
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We once dumped 3/4 of a gallon into a rental car after a climbing trip. Another time we dumped about a 1/2 gallon into a friends old van when it ran out of gas. Burns hot.
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I have friends in both locations. They all like where they are living and all get out. One thing to consider for the very long term and the unexpected short term is access to health care. I would also be looking at taxes for both, income and property.
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This time of year is known as bowling for climbers.
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[TR] Mt. Rainier - Tahoma Glacier 07/03/2020
ScaredSilly replied to jstluise's topic in Mount Rainier NP
Don't you mean a couple of Stinkydog climbers ... besides that is what pickups are for :-) -
[TR] Mt. Rainier - Tahoma Glacier 07/03/2020
ScaredSilly replied to jstluise's topic in Mount Rainier NP
Nice job on getting out. And yeah, when starting low taking two days to get to a high camp makes the climb much more enjoyable. Also we have found that for routes that start low and go long that it is worth carrying up and over, coming down the DC. It does require a shuttle but one can stash a car or hitch down - though this summer that might be problematic. -
The Cascade Brush and Bushwhack Rating System
ScaredSilly replied to ScaredSilly's topic in Climber's Board
USGS has an online database. Just gotta find the closest upstream station https://waterdata.usgs.gov/nwis/uv?site_no=12451000 -
One needs put a few things in perspective about the classic routes such LR. If one thinks about the FA it was done in August. 50 Classics was written in the late 70s. Since then anthropomorphic climate change has greatly affected many of these routes. In the late 80s when I did LR people regularly did the route through July. Rarely is that the case now. What makes LR a classic over PR? That is pretty simple. LR has a bit of everything ... glacier travel, a climb to a high camp in a great position, long sections of exposed climbing that does not end until right at the summit. PR has little of that, a long hike to a high camp, at best 2000' of climbing, then a mostly leisurely 2000' stroll to the summit.
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Sounds like a fall just above Thumb Rock. https://www.nps.gov/mora/learn/news/search-underway-for-a-climber-missing-on-librty-ridge.htm https://www.nps.gov/mora/learn/news/liberty-ridge-search-confirms-skier-fatality.htm