bstach

Build a bunker. Buy guns, lots of ammo, food, liquor and cigarettes.

Good movie, but the "MTV-style" editing was annoying and gave me a headache by the end. Anybody seen the other 9/11 movie...the one with Nicolas Cage?

Real grass is better than astroturf. Whateverfuck?!

Care to share a few here? Thats gotta be good for some entertainment.

Shakespeare was the master: "You base football player" "Young fry of treachery" I believe these are from Macbeth

I tried that once and I was sincere. I was looking for MORE beta on a route and I got slammed, so I am under the understanding this web site is for entertainment purposes only. Maybe some joker put a "spray me" sign on your back

Actually, I have noticed if people ask for specific route beta or conditions, they get good info and little spray. Its the threads like "do I need to rope up on a glacier" which seem to get hosed down.

I think Gary brought up some good points. I first started using this board a few months ago to get some beta for a local alpine climb (which I got, thanks Dru). Generally, however, it is frustrating to read through what could be interesting discussion threads but are 90% spray, 10% good information. So now, I mostly visit this board for the entertaining banter. If I get some useful climbing info - BONUS! On the other hand, Gary does seem idealist, naive and over-sensitive. He might have better luck telling Osama Bin Laden to voluntarily curb his abuse. But Gary, I did enjoy your photography thread. And I especially enjoy your incredulous reactions to people heaping abuse on you. Please don't leave us.

Sorry, CBS, its a cc.com stock Avatar - been to lazy to actually add one. Or maybe you all just have waaay more time on your hands. It'll be my shoulder season project when it is too wet to climb, not enough snow to ski. Either that or ordering materials from Focus on the Family. No wait...I'm not taking a chance...if it turns out there really is a God, you guys are soooo going to hell for that.

Oooops...original post was meant for a different thread...Moral: Don't drink and post. Post moved to "lets spray Gary Yngve thread".

I'm soooo surprised this thread hasn't gone to spray yet. What's up?

Did you find my neutrino?

Rotflmfao. You are the king of spray, Dru.

Who would publish it?! Geez, trite drivel is thriving business. Flip through a Cosmo or other chick mag. The specific advice may have changed in 50 years, but its still all trite drivel.

Hey! Sweeet! I'm not a "stranger" anymore.

Thanks for the beta, I'm headin' up this weekend. Clarification, though: thiere is no south side rappel route in the guide. Is this the Krause-McCarthy rappel or a new one in the area of Surf's Up? Does it end up in the Snowpatch/Pigeon Col?

Thanks Archenemy, I was worried I might be the only one.

Actually, Robmcdan is correct. The formula holds for both static and dynamic ropes. Which makes sense considering FF is not a measure of the force on the rope, but a *relative* indication of the force of falls of different lengths given the same rope and climber. In deriving the formula for the maximum force in a fall, the factors containing the rope stretch cancel out. Then you are left with factors containing a bunch of constant stuff -weight of the climber, properties of the rope - and the fall factor. The terms of the fall factor are the only things the leader has control of (by when/where he places gear) - all the other things are constant - which is why the FF is a useful measure. Also, it has been stated several times in this thread that reeling increases the fall factor. This is not exactly correct. In fact, for fall factors < 1, reeling will decrease the FF. For fall factors = 0, reeling has no effect on the fall factor. For fall factors > 1, reeling will increase the fall factor (so Dru's post is correct, just incomplete). Go ahead, do the math. : mathdance : Also, note there is a difference between 'reeling' and back-pedaling (running downhill) wrt calculating FF. If you back-pedal, you are not shortening the total amount of rope absorbing the fall - to do this you actually need to pull rope through the ATC (as in 'reeling'). Of course, you still increase the force on the rope when you run, as you now have two masses falling downhill that the rope must bring to a stop.

Not sure I follow your logic, Skoog. Can you explain your Russian Roulette comment? Anyway...I thought it would be obvious that my post was a cheeky answer to an equally inane question. Granted, did lead to some interesting discussion.

Can anyone report on the state of the approach to the Bug/SnoPatch col? Is the 'schrund passable?

I'm taking this question to its logical conclusion. I know I am going to die doing *something*, so I have resolved to do nothing. I just hope it doesn't kill me.

Gary, How do you pronounce 'Yngve'? You definately need to buy a vowel. Where's Vanna these days?

What is the guidbook I need for this area? i.e. if I wanted to *find* the trailhead for Gimli, where do I find the info?

Has anybody used the Fugawi software? I want similar quality to the 1:50,000 maps I can purchase at MEC. And the ability to select and print my area of interest. I visited the website and it reads to me like a viewer is included in the $100 price. Does anybody out there have this? I'm wondering if it allows me to stitch maps together and print my area of interest (i hate it when the area I want to got to is at the edge of two maps). The Fugawi web site has a demo version of the advanced viewer for download. I guess what I am wondering is if the basic viewer will do what I want...I don't really need all the fancy GPS stuff in the advanced software.

Still looking...bump, bump...you can also contact me at b.stach at telus.net