Maxtrax

Also, for getting your stuff back to the lower 48 you can often get cheap freight with Lynden on their back-carries because they're coming south mostly (or entirely) empty anyways.

PMed on jacket.

I'll take all the "thin gear." PM Sent.

Ahh, didn't recognize the Aztar with all the grip tape on it. The other one definitely isn't a venom though - the bolt pattern for the pick is wrong and the venom doesn't have a removable hammer.

What ice tools are those summitchaser?

Regarding the decision to descend a different route- I was up there planning to climb Gib Ledges a week before but we decided that even with an early start conditions were warm enough to increase the objective hazard from rock and icefall well above our comfort level. Even with freezing levels lower on the 2nd than they were on the 26th I still wouldn't want to head back down Gib Ledges after the sun was up and especially after I'd spent additional time searching for the lost climber. Additionally, the ID route is still in good shape and is well wanded which could have been a factor in the decision, especially if one had doubts about finding the top of Gib Chute in whiteout conditions. Granted this is all speculation on my part, but from my armchair I would select the ID as probably the faster and definitely the safer descent route.

As the title says, I'm looking for a pair of Dynafit TLT Speed bindings. Willing to spend up to $175 depending on age/condition. Bonus points of they are already mounted for 295-305 bsl on skis that are around 88mm waist by 163-174cm length. Additional bonus points if you have two pairs of bindings to sell, a friend that is looking for a pair as well. Contact via pm or email, mkawaky at g mail dot com

Cascade designs does not recommend the universal repair kit for the NeoAir pads, the ultralight repair kit is the one you are looking for.

Hoh river approach, wear trail runners at least to elk lake. Go really light (don't carry much water, if any at all, you cross streams where you can filter/refill every mile or two until elk lake), hit the summit block before any other parties, be comfortable soloing up and down exposed 4th class. Eat at the Haven or Chestnut Cottage in Port Angeles and stop at Sunny Farms in Sequim for fresh produce on your way home.

Aid climb. A lot. Go somewhere like Nevermind at exit 38 or World Wall at exit 32 where you can take some bigger sport falls safely. Climb some nice easy granite trad routes with easy gear - Apron and Smoke Bluffs or L-town come to mind.

Josh, from my own experience I favor the Reactor over the Jetboil for almost any trip for three key reasons - faster boil times, way better/more consistent performance in the wind (i.e. brew stops) and a large enough pot to actually be useful for 2 people or melting snow. I rarely take either during the summer, typically opting for cold food or my Brunton Crux which with a lightweight Al pot is a smaller package and is lighter overall for trips up to about 9 or 10 days. Edit to add: One stove I'd still really like to mess around with but never have is the MSR WindPro. I'd be curious to see if combined with a lightweight Al pot and a good titanium windscreen it could give the Reactor a run for its money melting snow by keeping the remote canister warmer and/or inverted to burn off the butane faster as it liquefies in the cold. Another interesting test would be to compare different brands of canister fuels/mixtures of isobutane and propane to see which (if any) performed better in colder weather or as the canister is diminished.

http://www.thenewstribune.com/2010/06/07/1217164/some-climbers-warnedbrof-avalanche.html Any loss of life is tragic, but it's remarkable that the guided parties were in close enough proximity without being buried themselves and able to effect a rescue of the other 10 climbers who were caught. Kudos to them for their quick action. Other news sources are reporting the missing/presumed dead man to be Mark Wedeven. Condolences to his friends and family.

Haven't skied the Megawatts but for one run but have skied the Justice and Zealot a bit, both of which I think would be a more versatile front/backcountry ski for the PNW. The Megas are a pretty specialized powder ski. If you like to rip get the Zealots, if you like to ski hippy pow get the Justice.

The Exposure series was replaced by the Variant series last year. If you can still find the Exposures they're alright packs but always stuck up too far behind my head in the appropriate frame size.

I haven't used the Pro's yet but I'm on my third pair of their precursor the Exum Ridge and they are by far my favorite approach shoe. Comfy enough for 15+ mile days (with my orthotics in them) and they climb great, I use them on alpine stuff up to 5.9. There are other shoes that climb or hike better but for me nothing else has the balance between those two aspects as dialed as the Exums.

The American Alpine Institute is actually based out of Bellingham, Alpine Ascents International is the other AAI which is based out of Seattle. From all accounts I've heard both offer great courses and guided climbs. Also check out the NW Mountain School in Leavenworth... I've never taken a course with them but every time I talk to John and Olivia I am more impressed with them both in terms of technical competence and how detail-oriented they are and just being super nice people.

Off of whistler/blackcomb (along the spearhead somewhere? I've only heard it mentioned in passing). I'm guessing some sort of giant impromptu spectre... seems a bit desperate though.

5'8" 165 currently on 170 Verdicts (128-98-116). My next pair of skis will be 175 BD Justice (138-111-123). I used to ski 167 or 174 Mt Baker Superlights but got tired of getting bounced around and once you ski a rockered/early rise tip ski it's really tough to go back.

John definitely knows what he's doing. I sent a pair of Katanas in last year, he said they would take at least 2-3 weeks, had them back in my hands 10 days after I shipped them to him and they were better than new.

I guess more of a reaffirmation rather than an alternative to your idea but basically if I can skin all the way up or only boot short sections I take my tele skis or on freshy days (i.e. no pons needed), otherwise I take my short/light Dynafit setup with old/light/walkable red TLT boots. Petzl does make a toe bail specifically for tele boots but my mountaineering crampons are Grivels so I haven't tried it out. FYI there's a pretty good deal on a ski mountaineering setup over at ttips right now: http://www.telemarktalk.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=67341

Strong work Wayne and Beau! Do you have a larger copy of that topo picture, if so I'd love to take a gander.

PM sent

pm sent

Bumpety bump.

In my experience the Nuptses are difficult to get a correct fit in without trying them on because they run on the narrow side. Most folks I know wear them around 1 size above street shoe but to fit my E-width foot I would take between 1.5 and 2 sizes above street shoe.