CaleHoopes

Pictures Giza?

Oooh, forgot that. Very good call Kurt. Lots of space, good coffee and good food. Totally obvious.

Yep... I'd suggest Good Mood Food too... they have Batdorf & Bronson coffee (which hails from Olympia). Unless I'm mistaken, this place is easily the best coffee I've found in Leavenworth (although Visconti's gelato shop coffee is not half bad). And I think it's quiet enough for study.

Al, I sent a big message about what I learned to Jesse... send me your email and I'll send you my beta.

caledh@gmail.com - Did all the logistics for a 5 person expedition. Cale Hoopes

ivan knows. He just got tired of the ropes and now just uses 2-ply (dry-treated).

According to Alpinist, this is the best US chart on grades I've seen: http://www.alpinist.com/p/climbing_notes/grades Considering this is Alpinist, I think these ratings are fairly accurate... Their definition: WI7: As above, but on thin poorly bonded ice or long, overhanging poorly adhered columns. Protection is impossible or very difficult to place and of dubious quality. Note that they say WI8 is under discussion...

Share the pix from your pocket... or it didn't happen ;-) I also have a gopro. Its not the 1G model, it's the 2G model (not the current 3G model). The biggest issue I have had involves POINTING the camera. So, after climbing a pitch, I stopped and restarted the camera which caused it to point down more toward the top of my helmet. The next pitch has 25% viewing of the top of my helmet. DOH. For editing... iMovie or Windows Movie Maker work great.... Movie Maker does transitions fairly well. You will find some issues. Of course if you're doing something very intensive, you'll want to have something like Premiere. But unless you're really doing PRO work, I'd avoid Premiere.

A very good resource with good prices is justropes.com. They have a coupon code of RBG2011 which will give you a 20% off. I am in the same boat as you and bought a New England Maxim 70m that I'm happy with. It's a great rope. Good luck. :-)

And a few long soaks in a bathtub full of ice... Don't forget to take a dump in a windstorm on a bucket with your hands frozen in ice.

Colorado still has ice.

Kurt! Thanks! :-) Looking for any Washington ice anywhere with these warm temps.

There are adjustments on the lynx for sure to point them in, straightforward and out. I know most of us throw out the manual (little fold up foreign language rosetta stone with warning icons), but in this case, the Lynx was super helpful. The manual shows three modes you can configure. If you're climbing ice, however, you need to find what works for you. Mine came pointed "in" like you are stating - I kept it that way. Feels really weird to look at when you put them on... climbs water ice amazingly. Really good stuff!

So - anyone been up to or seen ice near Mt. Baker? Pan Dome falls? Etc.?

Pete, those poles look performance enhancing. And any true BC skier would do it without the headlamp at night... FAIL FAIL FAIL.

So, those sound like neuromas - basically very frustrated nerves that grow up a bit into a little benign tumor that can sometimes be painful. Runners often get them in feet and cortisone shots can help - surgery is the biggest repair but there is permanent damage usually when a neuroma is removed .

layton, you have the best point. climb for yourself and take all the drugs you want. based on ivan's TR's, I believe he's putting this fully into practice.

Absolutely. I cheat when I can. Because I have no delusions of grandeur of having a full page in American Alpine Journal of my first ascent of Mailbox Peak without supplemental oxygen, Diamox, water and trekking poles.

Folks, I've had great experience with Gingko Biloba & Ibuprofen for altitude. Way safer than the Diamox.

Ok, folks, lets hope this storm brings some cold behind it, huh?

Beware the CRACK climbing...

FYI. These are the best liners made. Ask Dane. I love my Baruntse liners and I hope if I get another double boot, I consider putting these in them. ;-)

I love my one man tent. MH Direkt 2. I guess it would be TWO if you were short and weightless. For one it's BOMBER. Uses DryQ (event), seam sealed, rated 4 season, seconds to put up and just plain awesome. Oh and 2.5 lbs. Half a pound more than a filled water bottle. Yep, expensive. But whatever.

I don't wanna see any naked Ondra pix, K?

Yeah, but OR needs to design climbing clothing that has pockets that ain't by default under my damn harness, K?