CaleHoopes

Very nice work! Nice trip report! ++ for your partner's lead up ice that he hadn't done before at 13k.

Hey folks, After a smattering of pack weight related injuries from Denali, I'm cutting down my glacier rack greatly for grade 1 climbs. Therefore, I'm looking for suggestions for lightweight, large, lockers. Something with a gate clearance above 20mm & lightweight (60-80g). Seems like the contenders really are the Wild Country Helix, Petzl Attache 3D, etc. Thoughts? Cale

Yeah, I wasn't very specific about Mark, but he's awesome. I've spent a bunch of time with him and can vouch for him technically and personally. He will steer you toward whatever goal. He's had two first ascents in the Alaska Range including a peak he named with his partner Graham Zimmerman. Mark is a rock star and an IFMGA guide.

Mark Allen: http://alpinelines.blogspot.com

LOL. Just checking. I felt old on Denali and I'm ONLY 41.

Loren, Very nice! Oh, and what is "old"?

Should be comfortable with using crampons & ice axe. Experience snow camping if you haven't had that. Getting onto the spur can be steep and Suksdorf ridge (going up toward the Piker's Peak summit) can be steep - especially if it's frozen.

So, I sat in on one of those timeshares at 14. Didn't even get the free wine they promised. They sat us down for 2 hours and told us it was great real estate that you needed to access through 62 mile dangerous airplane ride and 9 miles of suck walking over dangerous holes. Made Vegas timeshares look downright safe.

Thanks Alasdair for bringing some intelligence to the conversation. I was stuck in the storm at 14 and I don't think I would have been moving then. That was a great deal of snow and wind deposit in a 48 hour period. I was glad that we'd already moved through there twice. However, you look up at that slope, and you don't necessarily think it would slide big like that. I can tell you, we had a fair number of slides at 14 that made you pause a lot. We got one on video that dusted the ranger tents at the end of camp and sent people running. With that being seen, we took an extra rest day at 14 before heading up the fixed lines - just because of instability. Not to mention, there was an avalanche that came across the area BELOW the fixed lines that slightly injured a team of four that required some time in the medi cal tent for them. That storm was significant for sure. And yes, objects in mirror are closer than they appear.

Your name says it all... 25 year old guys poop more than a 24 year old. More stink == more cash to pull it off. $42 would have been too prophetic. $43 is ONE MORE. Like 11. It's ONE MORE.

Yet another two thumbs up for a great job by cascade cobbler.

Very good point DPS. I've seen that same trend on guided climbs on Rainier. I've noticed less of that on international expeditions - but I guess that's because the clients are usually more "dialed" by the time they get out of the country.

If you're gonna spend on the I-Tent, check out the new MH Direkt 2. Awesome for that size and pretty darn bomber. (And 2 lb 8 oz). I'm a fan. Note, most of these tents don't have vestibules... but good stuff. Also, consider the La Sportiva Baruntse's if you want a beefier boot with a heat moldable liner. I've been really happy in mine and have used it anywhere from a sunny Rainier summer climb to a very cold bivy on the muir snowfield. And, definitely get the Prodeal. Why'd you become a guide anyway? DUDE, PRODEALS! LOL. Oh, and clients who just give tips to guides who have poor gear are stupid idiots. Guides do a ton of work and deserve whatever tip you got. End of story. Screw respect - the dude put your tent up and cooked your dinner (not to mention belayed your fat ass up that last slope). He deserves a fricken tip despite the look of his gear. Um kay?

Crocs are overkill. Open toe sandals or nothing. Don't forget the swim shorts too.

I wouldn't be surprised that focusing only on Crossfit reduced someone's bouldering performance. The only way to increase bouldering performance is to BOULDER.

I think I actually trashed my rope a different way. This last weekend we did some training with sleds up at paradise. I forgot to totally screw the cap on one of the bottles for the stove (XKG) and when I pulled the rope out of the sled, it was soaked in white gas. DOH. Anyone ever have that happen to ya?

Here's what the park service sees. You can clearly see the big chunk of broken up ice at the top of the chute. Is it also just me but is the rock melted out over into the chute more than usual? Also, doesn't it look like you could traverse under that breakup to climbers left and then navigate above the hanging ice wall? Anyhoo... nice pic from the NPS from 5/1:

This makes the route sound kinda nasty. I'm wondering how it will be this weekend. I guess I'm gonna find out.

Thanks! That's some decent news - about the Ledges. Make sure and bring some probes to make sure those bridges are good. Thanks to anyone else who has beta. We're looking at the Ledges this weekend if the weather holds and the route goes.

I have a team looking at Gib Ledges this coming weekend. Anyone have beta on Gib Ledges, DC or ID?

Jorge is amazing. What he does in his ultralight is pure real adventure. For someone who lives at 480 feet, hearing of his flights at 20k in open air while photographing is totally spectacular. Good stuff - gotta go back to get Chimbo and finally get up Cayambe.

Really appreciating the tips! Keep em comin!

We got the Trangos too Skoolsukz. When do you fly on? (or at least scheduled). Scared -> Yep, some booze is a good idea. A little flask with 151 or schnapps or somethin...

UPDATE: I just had the Hawk Vittles Hash Browns, Sausage & Egg and its the best camp meal I've ever tried. Fantastic!

DPS, you rock. That's great stuff!