CaleHoopes

This page has names at least: http://www.cascadecobbler.com/about.html

I also think FIT is important. It makes a difference whether your hands are cold when circulation is cut off. Anyhow, The OR Extravert gloves are really nice work gloves for ice climbing too. They are not waterproof, but they climb awesome and have great dexterity. Really for cold climates.

I agree about OR. One thing that's nice (even though expensive) are the Arctyrex Alpha Gore Tex gloves. Why? The liner actually sucks, but the outer is super lightweight with a leather palm and fingers and a full goretex membrane. I can always throw the outer glove in a pack for like 2 oz and it offers a great deal of rain pro. Then I stuff any other liner in there. Makes for a nice modular system.

I agree about OR. One thing that's nice (even though expensive) are the Arctyrex Alpha Gore Tex gloves. Why? The liner actually sucks, but the outer is super lightweight with a leather palm and fingers and a full goretex membrane. I can always throw the outer glove in a pack for like 2 oz and it offers a great deal of rain pro. Then I stuff any other liner in there. Makes for a nice modular system.

I bought the Batura's and climbed over at Banks Lake with them. They climbed well and for my foot approached horribly :-( And that was a short 40 degreeish approach where my feet hurt at the base of the ice. Since I shopped at Backcountry, I went ahead and ordered some Phantom Guides and did some HIKES with them to see how they'd do. They fit my foot way better and they were about equal. A little lighter and since there was a sale, a lot cheaper. I think the question here is this - will you use them for ice and mountaineering? I used the Phantom Guides on an approach to Liberty Ridge (we got weathered before the ridge), climbed the Emmons, 3 days of low-angle ice climbing on Baker (with one pitch of AI3) and all the hiking involved. They work pretty well for the environment where you have ice somewhere but also need to hike there. I owned one of the Trango models - and I'd have to say that for me I think they'd be too light for the 9 days in Ouray I spend every year. I think on some of those days I'd end up with cold feet and I believe the ankle is just not supportive enough IMHO. The new models: Nepal Cube and Rebel Ultra GTX are very intriguing. But I also think they might be too corner cutting. I'd love to hear how us normal people fair in them (meaning not Ueli Steck and Dane Burns) ;-) (that's not a jab Dane, you're just a more experienced guy than me and you probably can get away with a light boot with a soft ankle for your ice work)

Hey guys! Thanks for the responses. Great TR. It looks like great rock, and while there's a potentially "long" approach, the camping opportunities are awesome and beautiful. Seems like a great place to put up some new routes.

Hey, Anyone have any beta on rock climbs around Robin Lakes & Granite Mountain ridge? I went up there camping on Labor Day and saw what I think is quite a bit of great multi-pitch opportunities on the northeast side of upper Robin Lake and quite a bit of multi-pitch opportunities on the eastern side of the high point of Granite Mountain. In addition, some really great bouldering opportunities above upper Robin Lake with easy access. Thoughts? I thought I'd see some beta in CAG but it looks like it's too far for Beckey to walk (or the gullies aren't obvious enough).

i think all i've seen about a knot in the middle was quickly making it into a single length as opposed to a double length very quickly (basically, it's always both that way and then just choosing where to clip your biner into. as far as a "keeper knot" which seems like the smaller knot would be - ain't a bad idea at all. never used it myself but kinda nice if you're grabbing at the biner with big gloves. good call

gene is that knot near the end to keep the sling from traveling around through that biner that's clipped to the other end?

Lukas, I had a great very personal experience with Northwest Mountain School in Leavenworth. You can call them up anytime and they will formulate a course for you. By the morning of my second day of learning trad, I had done my first fist crack climb on a 5.7 (multiple pieces as big as #3) and lead it with gear. It was a great course and it was very laid back. NMS rocks. If you call em, tell em Cale sent ya: http://www.mountainschool.com/ Cale

A stab at this... double length sling because it's more versatile tie a knot so that you can quickly make it into a single if desired (and you can clip it back or just leave it I think this is just rigging a picket that can be used for all of this - whether it's an anchor for belay, pro or rappel The girth hitch is to remove a biner - I think the only thing I'd add Kurt is that you make sure the aluminum hole in the picket isn't sharp for any reason...

I feel like the comparison between the Phantom 6000's and the Spantik's is a little too wide. I actually believe the Phantom 6000's compete directly with the Baruntse's better (and even on price). I feel like the Spantik sort of falls right between the Baruntse's/Phantom 6000 and the Phantom 8000's/Olympus Mons. Anyhow, the Baruntse is a fine winter boot - I love it. It worked great on McKinley and I think it climbs pretty awesome. The Phantom Guide is a fine boot that I love, but I also think it's not really a multi-day winter boot. Single day trip? Sure. Multi-day? Double boot it. Spantik is definitely warmer than all of these boots, but the Phantom Guide is nearer to the bottom of warmth in these mountaineering boots. I really like my Phantom Guides and I tried a lot of boots before I got to them. They climb Rainier fabulously and I can't wait to use them at Ouray. I wouldn't climb McKinley in them just because I'd be worried a bit about drying them out and the ability to warm liners in a sleeping bag makes a double boot much nicer. Just my opinion. What's funny? After a boot fitter, my Baruntse's fit awesome. However I couldn't make the Batura 2.0 work, so I ended up with the Phantom Guides for that level of boot. One manufacturer doesn't matter. Boot fit matters the most.

What an awesome send. Who needs the Alaska Range when you can go here. Someday, I will go to the Waddington Range. K2 movie be DAMNED.

I agree with Kaskadsky... Climbers right keeps you sort of on solid ground. Lib Bell Becky rocks! :-)

I just went through this exercise as I was preparing for lib ridge which got horribly weathered out . Anyhow, I'm an avid ice climber and already had a pair of tools. That being said, after a lot of discussion I bought a "technical axe" - what a great decision. First off, Kautz is fairly easy ice and in the scheme of things, pretty darn short sections. Many of the guided groups DONT bring two tools unless they know the conditions warrant it. Additionally, when I climbed the Kautz (late July a few years ago), I only brought a Raven Pro that was 60cm (I'm 5'7"). So, it can be climbed fairly easy without two tools in the right conditions. In the wrong conditions, I'm sure I would have brought something more aggressive. Secondly, I think in this realm of 40-60 degree, young climbers are far too eager to put emphasis on what tools they have and that experience. Using a tool (unless water ice climbing) is an additional protection but your primary protection is use of your FEET and CRAMPONS. In considering that, footwork is your primary protection. So, make sure you have that dialed. So, on Liberty Ridge - which actually would have had vertical alpine ice - I settled on a Petzl Sum'tek and one of my Cobras. I could have taken BOTH cobras. However, the great thing about the Sum'Tek is that it has a SMOOTH section of the pick under the adze for comfortable holding while walking. This is huge to me. The Cobras have a sharp and aggressive blade on the bottom of the pick that would be uncomfortable to hold in a self-arrest position for any extended period for walking - I've found that because of this I end up changing the technique I use to carry them for long distances. Also, I think the Sum'Tek is a better, more aggressive tool than the Venom. Quite a bit more curve and a fairly excellent movable pinky rest almost turns it into a good leashless second tool. The venom is ok, but I think that the Sum'Tek is a better tool for this kind of climbing. For my height, I actually stuck with a short axe and a tool. So, I had a 52cm Sum'Tek and a 50cm Cobra Hammer. I was happy with this. For me, footwork is more important so I rarely plant my tool unless I absolutely need to. I also use some of those BD Ultra Distance trekking poles as a balancer for glacier travel. In seconds I can stash that and grab my second tool when the terrain gets steeper. The 52cm tool is tall enough for me for when we get above 30 degrees - I start to plant it. Also, ScaredSilly's comment: "Secondary Market" - JUST DO IT. Tools are one of those things that people discard that keep their value. So, check out Mountain Project for sale and various other forums. You'd be surprised what you can get. Second Ascent sometimes has some tools too. I bought my first set of BD Reactors for $199 (two tools total) at Pro Mountain Sports in the U-District. I scored. I got 3 seasons of WI out of them before I upgraded to the Cobras. Craig Luebben wrote a great book for Falcon Guides called "How to Ice Climb" (http://www.amazon.com/How-Climb-Ice/dp/1560447605) - Yeah, cheezy name. However, it has a full list of techniques and suggestions. Finally, if you decide you're NOT ready for this right now... you can rent/borrow some tools and go ice climbing on the lower coleman glacier on Baker and test out all the techniques. It's a great place to dial those skills and an easy day trip. Keep in mind that with the road closed, it's a long bike ride to get there (6ish miles)! DOH. Good luck! Let me know if you want any route beta on the Kautz. So far my favorite route on Rainier (until I finally get up Lib Ridge)

Honestly, even with the hyperbole, it sounds like we have consensus. Get a light 30m climbing rope that can fit through a device and then attach a tag line that you DONT rap on. You will rap on the single climbing rope and then at the bottom pull your rope down on the tag line. This is a very common practice AFAIK. Something like a 8mm rope should work fine in a reverso - they are rated only to support 7.5mm ropes and larger. So, using a reverso with a 5mm would be a bad idea. I agree with Coldfinger. Don't trust your safety to cord. Also, don't forget to attach your tagline with a good knot that will work between different diameters (like a double fishermans, not an EDK).

Gene, as of a few weekends ago - I don't think so. The snow conditions are the SUCK on the emmons (for skiing). Fine for climbing, suck for skiing. I helped a couple skiiers navigate around some nasty snowbridgy stuff and got accolades from them. They were pretty much having a scrape fest over stupid sun cups and we were coming down around 10-11 am so the sun was already hitting. Maybe if they make a late start and hit it around 5 pm it would be a little better, but honestly it didn't look great and they didn't look like they were having much fun. The rangers did a few ascents while we were there and I never saw any skis leave Sherman. I have a feeling that in the wake of last years accident they are being extra cautious. They seemed pretty serious about talking to every team in a more pointed fashion than I've heard before - since their ability to rescue has been greatly diminished. I'd think that the NPS would consider them skiing down the route at this point - likely unroped - would be way too risky and they'd put an end to it.

How about bring a 30m 8mm that works with a single device (like a reverso) and then bring a tag line to pull the rope (30m of 5mm?). Then rap off the larger line and pull on the other. Gives you a limit of a 30m rap but reduces weight greatly. So, seriously: http://www.justropes.com/store/p/278-MAXIM-Unity-Climbing-Rope-8mm-x-30m.aspx And then just add some Perlon for the tagline - or even the Mammut Pro Cord or Maxim Tech Cord like suggested. So, that would at least get you down to 3.15 lbs for the rap rope and then around 1 lb for 5mil cord (30 meters @ 19.4 g/m) Then of course, you need a device that fits: http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/belay-devices/reverso-3 - That device goes down to 7.5mm (rated) That system could work great. I get the lighter, but I think gene's comments are valid - do consider how much risk you want to buy off on.

CAT CRAP for the win. Spray on CAT CRAP almost always leaves my glasses fog free. You can get it at REI. Get the spray on not the "paste" and spray both sides of the lenses BEFORE your trip (if it's like 3-4 days) and you can leave the bottle at home for the ultralight trip. I'd say after a few days, you'll want to re-apply. It worked great for me for a 3 day on Rainier in ok weather and a 2 day on Rainier in CRAP weather.

There is a truck stop and a hotel at exit 34 too. I bet rooms are pretty cheap honestly. North bend is a great little town - lots of options for food, coffee, shopping, etc. http://www.edgewickinn.com/ The MF camping will be pretty far IMHO but it IS in between. The Edgewick Inn would probably be worth the money and puts you within a few minutes of both areas. So, more climbing and less camping stuff. However, if you want a fire, I'd not do that in the room ;-) Farside is usually less populated than Deception IMHO and there's lots of climbing. Note that the "times" in the guidebook to get to areas are not cumulative. When it says 5 minutes to Gritscone than 10 minutes to Easy Street it doesn't mean 15 total minutes from the car to Easy Street it just means an overall 10. When we first looked at the book we stupidly thought it was 45 minutes to interstate park. It's like 15 if you're slow. DOH.

I was just on the summit from the Emmons side. I believe the routes are breaking up fairly good. The DC route seems to have some various Home Depot style hardware above it as far as the pix I've seen rolling around lately. Things are getting SOFT so go early IMHO. Also, this time in the summer the crowds are big. If you can get out of camp at 11:30, you will rock the summit without getting into the traffic jams. Don't forget to check the blog: http://mountrainierconditions.blogspot.com/2013/03/disappointment-clever-2013.html Also, if you have any guide friends or are friends with guide services, they might give out some beta if you ask. I've sometimes asked the guides I know and got some really good beta on how the route is looking and where the features are. Finally, a few obvious pieces of advice that a few young mountaineers always miss: 1. Move fast through rockfall zones (Cathedral gap and around the corner on the traverse to Ingraham - and all of Disappointment Cleaver) 2. Coordinate with other teams when passing through these zones - make sure they are not above you and/or you're not above them 3. Move fast through icefall zones (Right before the nose of the cleaver) 4. Feel free to pass teams in safe areas - don't get hung up on staying behind a team and controlling your pace. 5. Don't cut corners - make sure your anchor doesn't cut corners and ends up in a crevasse as a result after the leader makes a safe trail. 6. DONT PRUSSIK INTO GEAR. There are fixed ropes on the cleaver at times. Feel free to use them as HAND LINES but do not attach gear or prussiks into it. You don't know if that gear would hold you in a fall and you also are creating unnessary risk for other teams as you fool around with a inefficient means of protection. 7. Coil ropes for scrambling. Go ahead and short rope up Cathedral Gap and carry coils. For the cleaver, coil in and short rope up the cleaver but wear - not carry your coils. Class 4 carry of coils may create unnessary risk. It's always best to not have a fully extended rope while trying to pull switchbacks in class 3/4 terrain with loose rock. In addition, coiling keeps the rope clean. Finally, being close together will help you keep someone getting momentum in a fall and facilitates good communication in a unsafe area. It just makes sense. 8. NO COTTON HANDKERCHIEFS - YER GONNA DIE. That's my two bits. Good luck and drive safe.

One of the best threads started from a TR that I've read on a real volcano route that was epic'd in style. I appreciate the perspectives of everyone including the OP and his partners. I think you got away with one - and I think you know that already - but this is indeed how you learn lessons by confronting the problems straight on and figuring out the solution. Good luck in your future endeavors and I think a bunch of us hopes we hear a TR from you folks again.

I also thought the Carbon was impressively broke up when we got there (late June a few days before Oleg & Anastasia did it...) It was interesting because a few weeks before an IMG trip had taken a pic from Curtis camp and the Carbon looked nicely filled in. By the time we got there it was very much still crossable but already looked like an unmitigated mess.

That's a damn good point DPS. I forgot about that trip report and forgot that the route was pretty good right after the storm that thwarted my team.

I agree with the assessment that you should have been able to cross the Carbon and up to Thumb Rock in a day. It is unusual to bivy on the Carbon and ScaredSilly is right - it's not a good place to stay long. If it was, I'm sure that there'd be more reports of a camp there. Just being under either wall for any extended time is putting you at risk. I'm glad you guys duked it out with LR. However, I also agree that this was just not the time of year to make it happen. The route has such a really short window of safety and you folks were just about 2 weeks too late. Good luck with your future climbing - I'm sure you've learned a lot.