brian_m

This coded typing must be kind of like ebonics but for instant messenger. Amazing what kids are learning in schools these days.

Never had problems getting North... however, was arrested and detained for 3 hours trying to return after climbing in Squamish for 4 days. US Customs agents stated that we looked suspicious (2 white guys in a newer pickup truck with WA plates?) The pulled everything out of our truck, dumped out all haul bags, backpacks etc into a huge pile in the car check area and proceeded to search the car and gear with drug dogs for 20 minutes. During our detention, we were questioned about our "real" reasons for being in Canada and accused of trafficing drugs across the border. Phone calls were made, more accusations followed before they finally were forced to let us go after finding no evidence of anything. It took nearly an hour to get re-packed and back on the road after they had torn apart the cab and sleeping area in the canopy. I was red flagged for years until I got a new truck with different plates.

Thanks for the tip... I understand the outdoor climbing situation in the area. But, I actually enjoy plastic sometimes. You know, turn up the music, hanging with friends, pull till you can't pull no more.

I am new(er) to the North Bend, WA area and need to find somewhere to train/climb indoors during the 9 rainy months??? Does anyone know any indoor walls in my area without having to drive in to Seattle? If not, does anyone in this area feel like getting together to rent some space to build a wall? Might be able to turn it into a money maker???

Sounds like an amazing trip! I am also very interested... what kind of camera are you shooting with? Any time you are looking for a partner for another trip of this type... look me up.

Thanks for the great pics and story. It's gonna be hard to top that one... maybe a winter ascent with one arm tied behind your back and only a pot to dig snow caves with. Nice climb!

Don't play football on the beach drunk in bare feet... it can lead to loads of stitches and a week away from climbing!

#1. Squamish chief parking lot- not only did they wave up to us (climbing Uncle Ben's) as they broke in, but they took EVERYTHING!!! Even disassembled the elevated bed platform inside my truck canopy to get to all the stuff underneath. Lost ID/wallet which made getting back across the border a nightmare. #2. Mailbox Peak trailhead on the Middle Fork road, just outside of North Bend. #3. Exit 38.

Sounds like a fun, quick trip. Pictures tell the story about how nice the weather was. Thanks for the TR.

sounds like fun... any takers?

Jacky, to answer your question with a bit nicer tone... Check out the mount rainier blogspot (see earlier posts for the web address); it has the most up to date conditions on each route (depending on if someone has been up there recently... only if you don't have an afternoon to just go "check it out for yourself" by digging a test pit). About 2 weeks ago the mountain recieved 2-3 feet of new snow. Most of it should have consolidated and formed bonds with all the warm weather, however, like Ryland so politely pointed out... no one is going to say that conditions on the mountain are totally safe from avalanches. When do you plan to climb Emmons? Have fun!

nice climb Dave & group... Dave, sounds looks like the weather was a bit nicer than a few weeks ago on Rainier. Must have been nice to see the mountain you were climbing.

Climb: Rainier-Ptarmigan Ridge Date of Climb: 5/26/2006 Trip Report: The Plan: dbconlin and I would meet at Paradise to leave a shuttle vehicle, get permits, drive around mountain to Mowich Lake Road, hike in to Ptarmigan Ridge, climb, and descend DC. The TR: dropped off car at Paradise, got permits, drove to Mowich Lake Road and started hiking at 1:30 pm friday afternoon. The road is clear of snow for the first 1 1/2 miles and had fair amounts of snow up to Mowich Lake. The rain was falling steadily during the hike and we got a bit wet by the time we reached the lake at 3:15pm. The trail to Spray Park was mixed dirt (trail) and large snow drifts through the forest sections with a few creek crossings that caused no problems. We broke trail to ascend up into Spray Park, traversed the lower slopes toward the ridge in white out conditions and snow falling, navigating by map and compass. During the ascent above Spray Park we encountered ~1 foot of newer snow which slowed the climbing with shin to knee deep post-holes. We made camp part way up a ridge at ~7500 feet at 8pm. Overnight the snow continued with about 12-18 inches of new accumulation by morning. With visibility still zero and the snow still falling, we made the decision that snow conditions were not favorable for an ascent and that the avalanche conditions were primed on the north side of the mountain with the newer snow on top of older. The descent brought knee to thigh deep snow back to Spray Park. It was uneventful but a bit demoralizing having to drive all the way back to Paradise to pick up the shuttle car. Bad weekend for Rainier. Sorry, no pics, nothing to see. Gear Notes: Needed: rain gear, snowshoes, bottle of tequila, helicopter.

Anyone want to climb this Wed or Thurs daytime??? I also have a newbie that I want to get out on the rock some and also get her to start learning how to belay. If you have a bit of patience with that... I'll belay you up whatever you want!

Take everything all the other posts stated... cell phone, fm radio, avy beacon, shovel, climbing/crevasse gear, 10 essentials, etc... and don't forget the kitchen sink! Relax, just take what you think you'll need for a summit day. Don't overthink it.

The town of North Bend is situated against the base of Mt. Si. The rock on top is called the haystack. Just East of Si is Mt. Teneriff. Across the Middle Fork Valley from Teneriff is Mailbox peak... If you still can't figure it out... check out a map. The ranger station in North Bend has one on the wall and also sells them. Great source of local information.

Expensive... $1000 deductible!

Climb: Mt. Colchuck-North Buttress Couloir Date of Climb: 5/5/2006 Trip Report: After a short evening of sleep, I left North Bend at midnight. The drive to Leavenworth was made slightly more interesting by a suicidal Deer which decided to end his (yes, a large buck's) life by T-boning my truck on highway 97. Yep, you read that correctly, I did not hit him, he hit me causing costly damage to my truck and sadly, ending his life. I met Zach (cc profile: bigbro) just a few hundred yards from the trailhead (most snow has melted on the road except for just below the trailhead). We downed a few Rockstar energy drinks (the big 24 oz ones) and headed up the trail at 3am. Temperature 45 degrees F. Somehow (in the dark) we missed the trail cut off for the bridge to cross the creek and head up to Colchuck lake and ended up wandering through the valley for a while backtracking to find our way across the river and up to the lake. The ice covered lake was easy to cross and we headed up the moraine for the base of the NBC. After a brief stop to mend a crampon and apply much needed sunscreen we got on the route (in full sunshine) and headed up perfect snow conditions for the col. The route was in great shape but a bit warm as we dodged more than a few projectiles from above. Zach just below the Col. After reaching the col, we found that the climbing had just begun and the exposure began. The backside was in even better shape (being shaded) and had great hardpack for the traverse and climbing through mixed rock and snow sections. The final section just below the summit provided great climbing and even better views. After a brief stop on the summit... we headed back to the cars enjoying perfect glissading down the colchuck glacier and an "enjoyable" hike out dealing with the soft snow conditions in the forest. Back to the cars by 6pm and home by 8:30... Overall a perfect day trip! To see a few more pictures, check out my blog at: http://highaltitudedreamz.blogspot.com/

Nice photos... looks like it was in great condition!

Congratulations Pochi!!! You're right, it was a great weekend for Rainier. Sounds like you are the 3rd summit of 2006.

I just got home from Rainier this weekend and it appears there were 2 soloists that summitted and possibly a party of 2 that I last saw at ~13,000ft. The soloists got Gib Ledges and the Direct route. I am not sure what route the party of 2 took from Muir but we saw them above Gib Rock. Snow conditions on the mountain were great today (sunday) but the wind was very strong. Many summit attempts were turned around or never even got out of camp due to the winds. One party in Muir broke 2 tent poles Sat. night in the wind. On a positive note... big thanks to the Park Service for the excellent renovation on the public shelter at Muir. Lots more light and the bunks are much more inviting than before! Thanks to MRNP for the update to the 90 year old shelter.

I NEED CLIMBING PARTNERS!!! New to the area, live in North Bend and I need partners for trips into the cascades, Rainier, or local crags. I have strong rock/ice experience and some alpine experience on local mtns and on denali. I am looking for partners or teams for trips and hopefully some expeditions in the next few years. Drop me a line if you have some free time and want to push the edge just a bit on some more committing stuff.

Went to Vantage... Weather was okay. Got in lots of routes!!! Anyone who stayed inside because of weather should have come out!