ryanb

Found it:

I can think of specific placements where the narrower head width on the black master cam (or orange alien when my fiance lets me borrow it) are an advantage over the .75 Camelot (pockets like the ones early on left ski track at jtree) and I routinely carry both when carrying doubles in that size but I haven't felt the same need in any of the larger sizes.

You can download the mounting templates off wildsnow.com but i'm pretty sure the vertical and the speed have the same hole pattern but I think they require different gaps between the heel piece and boot so you will need to make sure that the speeds have enough adjustment range to accomplish this with your current holes.

If you haven't all ready, you should take them to a good shop and have them check the shell fit (without liners) and thermo mold the intuitions if it looks good...intuitions are ment to be molded and you can't really try them on without molding. My scarpa spirt 4's were too tight in all the wrong places and didn't evenhave room for a footbed until i had them molded with one in place and now they are awesome.

Yeah I'm not crazy about the nicros but its fine if you just want something to do pull ups off of...if any one else wants to buy it let me know. I replaced it with the beastmaker 2000 which is the best board money can buy in my opinion. I'm curious why you want two hangboards in your life? I consider myself a hang board addict but I really feel that the key to getting strong and staying uninjured it so limit oneself to 1-2 weekly sessions and warm up slowly with sets of dead hangs and repeaters (see the training articles here: http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/training%20page2.htm) on easy holds before you even think about touching the harder holds...people who just do a few pull ups with out warming up every time you walk past tend to be the people who pull tendons and give hangboarding its bad reputation.

Its that shape but i think it is light blue instead of white, possibly with dark blue stripes...I can dig it out when I get home. It has a good variety of jugs and pockets but I found I wanted more slopers and some edges between the sizes it has.

I have an old nicros warrior board I'd sell for a reasonable price...I'm not crazy about the design and replaced it with something less curved and with more edges. I'm located in magnolia.

The Bailey range is a really good suggestion both for its beauty and remoteness and for its history. The OP should do some research into Herb Crisler the filmmaker who explored much of the olympic high country including the bailey range but is now mostly forgotten. I would actually really love to see a film that retraced his footsteps and legacy with a dose of adventure thrown in. And you can take a ferry to get there.

That's not the case in the DB w/ CF that I posted above (or really any bowline variant). Not quite sure what you mean? That a bowline tightens up just as much weather you use the double wrap around the tie in point or knot? Then why do you use the double wrap? My experience is only with the double wrap plus a figure eight and I haven't scientifically tested it but I find that I can generally get my knots undone after repeated falls unless I am pumped out of my gourd in which case i might have to wait a minute. I suppose there are lots of other thing that could effect it ... type of rope, partners getting better at giving soft catches, type of harness etc. There is a 'yosemite' finish for both bowline and figure 8 tie-ins but I find it disagreeable in case of bowline tie-ins due to it turning them into a visual mishmash. Agreed but, as I said, i've moved back to the figure eight.

I used to use alternative knots but have since found that, If one double threads the rope through the harness tie in point (creating an additional complete loop of the tie in point) that section tightens up first in falls leaving a standard figure eight with the Yosemite/Archie/Olevsky finish easier to untie while preserving its other benefits. Plus I forgot how to tie the other knots during a stint as a boulderer.

knob goblyn???? i wouldn't be caught dead with a pair of shoes called knob goblyn's on just sayin Oh man, totally missed that when i typed it ... How a bout just "the nubbins"

Kudos for posting info about the working conditions your shoes are made under. That honestly makes me consider your shoes more then I ever have before as I always felt mad rock were sweat shop rip offs of five ten (I do have to say that the color choice and velcro strap on these makes them look a lot like the 5x). Some Index Footwork Inspired Name Suggestions: The Smedge The Foot Dyno The Knob Goblyn

I have also been wondering about this. I tour/walk in my at boots with all the top buckles undone and in tour mode for comfort. Do you ice climb in tour mode or ski mode? Top buckles done or undone? I've been eyeing the new line of sportiva ski boots wondering how well they walk/climb: http://www.wildsnow.com/4361/winter-outdoor-retailer-show-2011-1/ http://www.tetonat.com/2011/01/24/more-from-outdoor-retailer/

Feather friends has one of the better rock shoe selections in town for people who actually want shoes that are useful for free climbing and there staff has always been helpful with my obsessive shoe trying on though I only end up buying anasazi. I've actually tried to purchase a drill there but they didn't have one ... either that or they thought I was a chump who was going to grid bolt the LTW. Mark, What route/pitches are you talking about? Bits of Snow White have gone free for years and p1 with slight variations is a fixed sport route (Dwarf Tossing...it is even listed on mountain project). I don't know about the upper pitches and I'm willing to give you the benefit of the doubt as far as intentions but it sounds like you may be working from out of date information and I can understand if someone thought you were going to nail a free route.

Cool, I spot checked a favorite local and it looks like your coverage of old roads is better then USGS but coverage of trails lacks behind green trails.

You need to get the url for the image file. You have the one for page it is on. I get image url's by right clicking on the image and using "Copy Url" (google chrome but other browsers have similar). For your first image it should be: http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/600x450x100_1411.JPG.pagespeed.ic.BCz8VFuJaA.jpg Notice that if you put that in your address bar it shows only the image and not the page. You can also do this from flickr but you have to click on all sizes and select the size you want first as they override the right click on the main image page. Also I find your trip reports useful for judging current conditions but you should really learn to ski tour so i'll find them more usefull

I spent much of my climbing time this year way off the beaten path with the fiance and got in a few (possible) first ascents and one first (crash pad) descent: (not a great shot or route but my first ground up FA)

More info here: http://www.wildsnow.com/3895/atk-rt-backcountry-skiing-binding/ Sportiva is the importer for a euro brand ATK. The ski brake on the atk site looks really cool, hope they import that as well and it seems it has an adjustable din like release in tour mode. Maybe they will go on sale in the spring...

I haven't actually used one yet... i'm in the market for a gps and saw it. I am leaning towards one of the basic garmins with an altimeter as I don't have an altimeter watch just my dads old dial altimeter which is bulky. They have a cool search tool on the garmin site that lets you select the features you want and shows you which gps matches it. Amazon seems to have good prices.

Garmin has the eTrex H which has 500 way points and goes for 99 MSRP. I don't think either have a barometric altimeter which is a worthwhile/necessary feature for many.

I don't think there is enough snow there quite yet but we learned out near Blewett pass ... there is a fair amount of mellow terrain in the diamond head, tronsen meadows and forest service road 800 areas and it should be possible to find a decent slope to yo yo. See: http://www.justgetout.net/Wenatchee/pages/page/?pgid=69 http://books.google.com/books?id=L3RvawmhbkgC&printsec=frontcover&dq=seabury+blair+backcountry+ski&source=bl&ots=f1FSj_5eKS&sig=cD3T_YHNNviWI9b8aH8Ov4dC1Q8&hl=en&ei=WzD0TIrIKZK6sQOkt5zdCw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBsQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false for some specific ideas or just head out and explore. Usual caveats about avi danger apply.

I like it. Nothing more objective than that. If you aren't hashing together the blueprints for Entropos, LLC - the green certifying company to end *all* green-certifying companies right now, you're doing both your bank account and the planet a grave, grave disservice.... The second law of thermodynamics only applies to closed systems ... plant growth actually decreases (local) entropy thanks to the giant glowing ball in the sky beaming energy at us.

I consider myself an environmentalist but I also consider myself a scientist and a critical thinker. The evidence shows that the idea of wilderness is a western myth ... people traveled through, lived in and even maintained many of the places we consider "wild" and our ancestors chased them out with disease, guns and now 14 day stay limits. Our mountains looked a lot more like the habitated Andes or even the Alps before the white man arrived. http://westinstenv.org/histwl/category/the-wilderness-myth/ http://www.williamcronon.net/writing/Trouble_with_Wilderness_Main.html http://www.amazon.com/Dispossessing-Wilderness-Indian-Removal-National/dp/0195142438 On a personal level, I have found (and left) arrowheads and other signs of long use along high "game" trails on unnamed peaks and have noted that, in dry country ranging from Eastern WA to the great basin to Utah, many hidden springs and watering holes are marked clearly with simple petroglyphs. I don't see trail markers as that different, and I'd rather them be rock piles or well made signs then neon grid tape that becomes brittle, flakes and blows everywhere. Cordillera huayhuash, Peru Sky Valley, WA

I have the black diamond agent with avi lung. It works well enough as a pack that my fiance got one this year. She has a voile shovel, it fits if you take the blade off though the part of the blade that the handle slides into is annoyingly (and unnecessarily) long. I think they make a version that will carry a snowboard (bandit?)

That is a hammer drill which might be okay for basic home repair stuff, you actually want a roto hammer for rock with any sort of hardness. I have the same one as bill, it is light enough to lead with and can drill a half inch hole it drills 3/8 holes in granite like it was butter and 1/2 inch reasonably quickly. Bosch 11536C. 11536C-1 is one battery, 11536C-2 is two. the C is for compact so make sure you get that one or you will end up with a bigger tool. http://www.cpotools.com/bosch-11536c-1-36v-cordless-litheon-compact-sds-plus-rotary-hammer/bshn11536c-1,default,pd.html?start=3&cgid=bosch-cordless-rotary-hammers#prReview Note all the reviews are from climbers. Cpo tools reconditioned is the way to go but they seem to only have new at the moment.