ryanb

the screen will be much nicer then a 1k toshiba. i found the built in apache is kind of limited for serious use but the os is quite flexible and can be extended etc if you know some linux admin tricks and are willing to go beyond the preferences dialogue. or just run a linux server in a vm for development.

Hey man, we talked to you and boyd on your way out, glad you are okay. You mentioned that the draws at the base didn't have anything left on them meaning the bolts broke through the eye I think.

Nice work! We did the traverse instead of the bombay as well it kind of seems like the better option...how hard is the bombay? Also did the right (wide) crack at the section you call awkward and dirty but can't say it wasn't awkward...

I was down there last time they cleaned it (2000 or 2001 ish?) with straight pressure washing. It just got a bit more gritty but none of the holds got much less greasy...the holds can stand up to some cleaning but the concrete turned to sand. Sandblasting would probably remove the patina on the stones? Maybe vinegar?

Roslyn is not super close to leavenworth unless you are taking highway 2 for another reason or accessing Stuart up mountaineers creek in which case its on the way...I think second ascent is your best bet and closest to north gate too...they have an eclectic selection with lots of discontinued models/odd sizes but stock more comfort/beginner shoes then any other store in town. Vertical world (not sure what they stock...anyone else know?) and stone gardens are in the same area too. Failing that head down to feathered friends and failing that rei is right across the street...

What is NE? Pro Mountain Sports has very limited rock shoe selection...awesome store for other stuff but abismal for rock shoes. Feathered Friends (across the street from rei) has these... mostly performance models: http://www.featheredfriendsretail.com/footwear-climbing.html Second ascent is a good bet, they tend to have the best variety of not-super-agro shoes that might work well for long routes...alot more then are listed on their website too. Stone gardens has anasazi vcs, mocasyms and mythos. If he is allready on the east side leavenworth mountain sports had a surprisingly good rock shoe selection last time i was in...lots of performance shoes from several brands but i don't remember if they had good long route shoes.

This may be a stupid question due to the hardness of metals in bolts or something but assuming you are in an area that allows power tools can you just drill the old bolt out of its hole with a normal drill bit?

In the past there had been a note posted on the stop sign by the railroad tracks when cleaning is going on in the quarry, it is easy to miss though. Most of the talus below thin fingers came down on its own from the large overhanging white section left of where routes are going in...its not exactly a safe spot. Brad L and I gave the finger crack part of pressure drop a quick scrub a couple of weeks ago... it may need another once it is fully dry. There are lots of other routes in that area that could be re-de-mossed.

Dave Page's shop has ruined pairs of my shoes and pairs of my friends shoes. I hear he himself does a fine job but his help sucks. I just got my first pair (anasazi vcs) back from cascade cobblers via stone gardens. I'm letting them cure for a week before i use them (the key to a lasting resole or so they say) but they look great. He also sent me a partial refund because i paid for a rand job and he didn't think they needed one so the total was only 28 bucks. If they climb as well as they look they will be getting more of my business.

Do you have a Topo or pitch-by pitch beta for this route? I've been wanting to get on it for a while now. We used a topo out of brudo's "north cascades rock"...out of print but I think they might make you a photo copy at second ascent or feathered friends? Sol (poster below you) has a good pitch by pitch trip report... or mine is here. Going by Sol's pitches fitz face traversed below the roof to gain the cracks instead of (or before) chimneying on p5 and climbed the right wide crack on p6 (a bit of burly 5.9 wide without wide gear. ) I think mark westman said he left a cam in the roof at the start of p5 (we somehow missed it by traversing lower) so if you see one its his. Are newer routes like the hitchhiker in the new beckey book?

I don't think that is the passenger. Here is a photo overlay I made of it.

Damn Sol, that is a training routine. How much weight, what edges and grips do you use for the various hangs and pulls? I've gotten serious about training the last couple of years, focusing mostly on fingers and have also seen hugh gains (sending index 11's and starting to think about harder stuff, bouldering 3-4 grades harder then i was). My routine is not very organized, I try and follow what I'm psyched on each week (either PE or P) and do at least one pure power (hangboard) work out every week. Basically I do: 1 yoga class a week taught by a climber/skier + additional light yoga every day with a focus on pushing and opposition to climbing movements. Bike commute 2-5 days a week (10 miles round trip). Climb outside 1-2 days a week depending on weekend weather (either bouldering or routes at index recently but hopping to start throwing WA pass in the mix and get in some after work sessions in the sky valley thanks to the long days) 2-3 midweek sessions preceded by long warm up traverses and some bouldering either at SG or the UW rock. Breaks down as follows: Hang board 1-3 days a week (Usually 3 sets of 5x~8 seconds four finger open handed on the small campus edges, and 1-3 sets each using each three finger grip and the two stronger 2 finger grips on the large and medium edges). Frenchies and front levers 1-2 times a week (my elbows can't take more). The last month or so I have started to focus more on PE during (2-3) midweek sessions, first using steep traverses and foot on campusing at stone gardens and more recently doing traverses and link ups at the UW rock...PE really kills me and i've had to cut down to one light hang boarding session a week, loose the frenchies and watch the elbows but am feeling really strong and psyched for this season. I also feel like I end up taking at least 2 real rest days (no climbing, maybe bike commute) a week when i feel i need them, usually monday and friday.

Perly gates, no chance. They don't get sun until late afternoon this time of year. I looked up at them last weekend and the right side still had ice. the left side might be dryish but you would freeze your ass off. You should be fine on south facing stuff (most popular crags, buttresses and boulders between carino crag and JY crags had climbable spots last weekend)

As of sunday most south facing rock is snow free, trails not so much. 8 mile road was still closed.

Thanks for doing that Porter, I think a lot of us would be willing to donate a lot of time (fundraising events?) and what money we have to a purchase effort. I'd also like to point out that the wcc article asks for help valuing the land (in terms of quarry feasibility) from people who have experience with environmental regulations or railroad easements. As far as climbing out there currently, i've been out recently and have had no problems. I imagine the most important thing is to be very respectful and polite in any interactions you have with the owner? It is their land and we'd like them to be willing to sell it to climbers. If they don't want you climbing on the LTW, there is a lot of Index that is not affected by this. Everything from the country to the upper walls I believe; there is a map on the wcc page. The traditional parking lot is on railroad land and there are other places to park as well (I think the city has a parking lot at the end of their foot trail near the gun club?).

Doesn't the custom knife shop advertise cabins? I've never been inside but it seems legit. ish.

Index was perfect monday.

I believe the holds were glued on by members of the greater-montlake-cut-artificial-structure-climbing-community and I don't think it was leadable...more of a dws. The rumor I hear was they were chopped immediately after 9/11.

Watch the cheap rope thread, buy cheap buy often: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/860259/Re_Hot_rope_deal_60#Post860259

Have you used that rope before billcoe? How does it hold up? This review: http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=30&type=fieldtested made me think i might wait for a deal on something more durable and longer as my metolius 70 9.8 (got cheap thanks to this thread) is still going strong and the extra 10m are really nice for index.

mammut 8.5x60 = $55 (one color only) pmi 9.7x60 = $60 edelrid 9.8x70 = $165 10mmx60=$114 http://www.rei.com/search?cat=4500081&sale=Y&hist=cat%2C4500081%3ARopes+and+Bags%5Esale%2CY%3ASale+%26+Clearance

No kidding, we all know corduroy offers better traction in wide cracks and knee bars but khakis wear better and are cooler in hot temps.

Have the rest of the week off and would like to climb some rock. Closest dry rock looks to be bishop, looking to swap driving shifts. I would prefer someone I have already met but last minute planers can't be choosers. I am competent and safe and climb more or less v6 or 5.11, whatever style.

Ben, What is your opinion on the rating of Amandla without the extension? I seem to recall hawk thinking it was easier then Chronic but very temp dependent? (not that i am going to do either of them any time soon but its nice to dream)

I think Hawk B did it in 2000 or so and estimated it was the 4th ascent.