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Everything posted by mountainmatt
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You forgot one: E6 You are fisting the void and you run out of tacos
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Especially if you are wearing one of these!
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[TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 5/1/2010
mountainmatt replied to Tom_Sjolseth's topic in Alpine Lakes
Nice Tom and Steph! Way to get after it! Sounds like a fun time until you hit the rime covered west ridge section. Bummer about heading down the wrong side, but at least you found a nice bivy. Were you on the route Sat and Sun then? The winds were howling on Saturday above the valley, that must have made things exciting. . -
Does this help clarify it?
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It all depends on what you can lead and how many days you want to hike versus climb. A couple of the classics are: South face of Prusik West face of Colchuck Balanced Rock Backbone with Fin on Dragontail Complete north ridge of Mt. Stuart This set of climbs does cover a range of hiking distances within the enchantments though. If you wanted to do several climbs in one area, use the hike as a rest day, then repeat, I would suggest looking into other climbs. Although I have not done them yet, Solid Gold and Der Sportsman are on my list and appear as 4 star classics in the new Leavenworth guidebook. Acid baby is also supposed to be a nice climb near Asgard pass. There also as been route development on CBR, Sherpa, etc. Just depends on what you are looking for. That being said, the enchantments are awesome! Enjoy your trip and post a TR so all of us weekend warriors can drool at our desks.
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Hooks make great anchors as well... Fisher Towers
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I don't know, the first stone looks bomber to me. Perhaps the danger is in the redundancy of slinging a second stone.
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Sweet! What an awesome sea of granite... So psyched to get up there! .
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Takargo FA, Nepal
mountainmatt replied to joepuryear's topic in The rest of the US and International.
Awesome! Looks like a great set of climbs for sure! Skirting the huge serac field must have been fairly exciting at times. Was it mostly stable when you came around it? . -
Local residents shotcrete Burgers and Fries, squam
mountainmatt replied to G-spotter's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Think of all the FAs that are now available! I am going to get my bolt gun and hop in the car ASAP! . -
Mmmmmmmm..... beer and schwag... :brew: :brew: .
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Sweet! I can't wait to see the update! .
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Leavenworth - Snow Creek Wall Conditions
mountainmatt replied to yasso1am's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
I was out there yesterday in the lower Icicle creek area (Sam's hill and such). That area is totally dry and mostly clean (some moss on the slabs as usual). I looked up at Snow Creek wall and there is a descent amount of snow at the top of the wall. Most of the routes are likely wet (you could see the water run-off from a long ways away), and the walk off would probably suck right now. A few weeks of warm weather should help that out. We saw lots of ticks, but were lucky enough to avoid them. -
[TR] dragontail - triple couloirs 3/8/2010
mountainmatt replied to quikclimber's topic in Alpine Lakes
Nice! Way to get after it! . -
Definitely a great day out Stewart! I was glad that you took p6 after seeing the loose flake, I guess the dome gets its name for a reason eh? I will second the thanks to MattP for doing an amazing amount of cleaning at the second washout. Thanks man! As for the bolt pulling, it was definitely nice to have the wet pitch excuse this time, next time I won't be so lucky I am sure. I would say that wet shoes did make the end of that pitch spicy as well.
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I don't know, I thought the movie reminded me a little bit of the Passion of the Christ in that you know what is going to happen, and there are people screaming in pain/fear for an hour. I did like the movie (especially the first half or so), but I would definitely eliminate the girl screaming 'Toni Toni' over and over at the end. .
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Grab the pack you are taking on Rainier, load it up with ~40 pounds of water and head to the top of Si. Once you are up there, dump the water out and head back down. If you can make it up the boulder field in under 2 hours with a 40 pound pack, you will be just fine. Of course more weight and faster times will help you, but you will be "fit enough" at that point. Good luck and have fun up there!
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A whole bunch at Vantage, Blue autumn comes to mind, but there are more over in that same area.
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[TR] Green Giant Buttress - Dreamer 3/6/2010
mountainmatt replied to benmurphy's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Awesome! We were wondering if other people got out to Darrington on Saturday. We were up on Exfoliation dome, looks like similar conditions to ours. . -
first ascent [TR] Assassin Spire - NW Face (IV, WI4+) FA
mountainmatt replied to Tom_Sjolseth's topic in North Cascades
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[TR] Tatoosh: Pinnacle Peak - North and East Ridge 2/28/2010
mountainmatt replied to icmtns's topic in Mount Rainier NP
Looks like a good one! Nice work! . -
Sweet Matt! I can't wait to see the slide show! Mmmmmmmm... limestone... .
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[TR] Mount Rainier - Nisqually Ice Cliff 2/21/2010
mountainmatt replied to jiri's topic in Mount Rainier NP
Nice! .