Dan_Miller

I have no direct (being guided, or trained per se) experience with them but I would certainly not leave Alaska Mountain Guides, located in Haines, AK out of the mix. I've spoken with them on two or three occasions (trying to pry some beta out of them) and they've been more than helpful and quite forthcoming with information. They've a website, and their guide roster looks pretty strong and experienced.

House Bill 2619 Sponsors Here they are folks. Doubtless, they're 'way' more knowledgeable about mountaineering and PLBs, ELTs and EPIRBs than anyone else! Here's their contact information. Let's have our voices heard gang, especially the professional guides among us (read real government intrusion here). Link to their emails: Rep. Sherry Appleton (D) 23rd LEGISLATIVE DISTRICT Olympia Office: 424 John L. O'Brien Building PO Box 40600 Olympia, WA 98504-0600 (360) 786-7934 E-mail Rep. Jim Jacks (D) 49th LEGISLATIVE DISTRICT Olympia Office: 322 John L. O'Brien Building PO Box 40600 Olympia, WA 98504-0600 (360) 786-7924 E-mail Rep. Roger Goodman (D) 45th LEGISLATIVE DISTRICT Olympia Office: 320 John L. O'Brien Building PO Box 40600 Olympia, WA 98504-0600 (360) 786-7878 District Office: (425) 739-1810 E-mail Rep. Marko Liias (D) 21st LEGISLATIVE DISTRICT Olympia Office: 434 John L. O'Brien Building PO Box 40600 Olympia, WA 98504-0600 (360) 786-7972 District Office: (425) 776-7959 E-mail Rep. John McCoy (D) 38th LEGISLATIVE DISTRICT Olympia Office: 132A Legislative Building PO Box 40600 Olympia, WA 98504-0600 (360) 786-7864 District Office: (425) 257-1769 E-mail Rep. Jim Moeller Deputy Speaker Pro Tempore (D) 49th LEGISLATIVE DISTRICT Olympia Office: 436A Legislative Building PO Box 40600 Olympia, WA 98504-0600 (360) 786-7872 E-mail Rep. Mary Helen Roberts (D) 21st LEGISLATIVE DISTRICT Olympia Office: 315 John L. O'Brien Building PO Box 40600 Olympia, WA 98504-0600 (360) 786-7950 District Office: (425) 744-3130 E-mail Rep. Geoff Simpson (D) 47th LEGISLATIVE DISTRICT Olympia Office: 426 John L. O'Brien Building PO Box 40600 Olympia, WA 98504-0600 (360) 786-7918 E-mail Rep. Brendan Williams Majority External Relations Leader (D) 22nd LEGISLATIVE DISTRICT Olympia Office: 132F Legislative Building PO Box 40600 Olympia, WA 98504-0600 (360) 786-7940 E-mail

I still have my original #1 and #3, and never hesitate to place them. They were such a great benefit over most other pieces at the time. I guess I haven't really gotten over the impact they originally had on me.

The reason for Yes is that there are no crevasses enroute on the standard southside route up Adams. This does not however, mean that the upper mountain snow conditions will never be icy. Reasonable common sense and due caution will most likely allow you to ascend and descend safely. Plenty of little grandma's have successfully made the climb. Best of luck!

Garth, admittedly your a 'big guy' thus a useful rule of thumb with respect to appropriste ski length for you would I believe probably lie towards the 188 cm. length. Tou, with all your gear, boots, skis and binding weight, pack and associated equipment will take you in the neighborhood of 300 lbs. Oftentimes it's all about flotation ability, especially in unconsolidated powder snow. The ski length plus its dimensions (tip, waist and tail widths) will dictate a ski's ability to support your weight. Obviously you don't want to wallow in unconsolidated deep snow if at all possible. I little research at K2's site reveals: HardSide 131/98/119 This means 131cm, widest part of the ski tip; 98cm underfoot and 119cm at the widest portion of the tail. From my brief time at the K2 site, this would certainly be in the general class of skii's you should be looking at. However, there is a ton of skis in this general all mountain randonee category, by several manufacturers. I currently ski in the backountry on two different skis, an older Atomic Kongur and last years Black Diamond Verdict (a little more of a powder, soft snow ski). FWIW I'm 5'8'' and 157lbs. The Atomic's are 178cm and the Black Diamond's are 180cm.

Dane, Gene, Ivan and Monty all are suppling 'state of the art' technique and advise. Catching one's front points and swiftly flipping head over heels ia a real posssiblity in firm snow. I've seen it happen and it's not a pretty sight, pretty sickening really. Heed what they're saying.

I strongly second Mr. McJizzy's experienced opinion above. Doubtless, you could do it mid-winter; but by no means would it be the optimal time for crevasse rescue practice. Let it be said that he pretty much knows what he's speaking about. Hate to be in the spoilsport category on this proposal. My Esperience, I've been alpine climbing almost forty years, if that means anything.

I suspect Dane yould concur here. If you can get a properly fitting pair of the Nepal's for $200.00 buy them guick.

I can hardly beleive I'm posting in "this" paticular thread. The Opsak may be your answer. Best of luck! http://www.loksak.com/products/opsak

Thanks for the "heads-up" on this telecast CC! Great useful, informative first post. Possibly most of interest to us, the program will include a profile of our "beloved" Fred! A profile of legendary mountaineer Fred Beckey who has been climbing in the North Cascades for nearly seven decades, racking up more "first ascents" than any other climber in history. The 86-year-old is the author of the Beckey Guides, indispensable guidebooks for climbers and hikers exploring the backcountry.

Kudos to Jens for his insightful and poignant article in the current issue of Alpinist 29 (Winter 2009/10 Issue). I was quite aware of the climbs put up last year by both Jens and partner as well as the climb by Alpine Dave and partner. These strong efforts have been published here and elsewhere in the climbing media, however it is really great to read some details and view more photos. The Stikine icecap area holds a special place in my alpine heart. As an oldtimer who climbed in that part of the Stikine Icecap (Mt. Burkett and attempt on Devils Thumb plus a couple other lesser peaks) over thirty years ago now; I find that there has been no real change in this wonderful vast wilderness. Nor any apreciable lack of alpine challenges to be found either. Great work by a couple of CC.com locals, Jens Holsten and Max Hasson.

I,ll 'second,' Heinrich's "strong work" gentlemen. Great use of that portion of the Face, that was in shape. Quite timely thinking in my humble opinion.

This nearly three year old report (from Jason Hummel) may be of some assistance. http://www.cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/westmacwinter2007.htm

No new official email from WSDOT yet this morning, however their Mountain Pass Report indicates the following: NORTH CASCADE HWY SR20 Elevation: 5477 ft / 1669 m Temperature: Not Available Conditions: Washington Pass is closed for the season at milepost 134 near Diablo to milepost 171 at the Silver Star Gate. Weather: Not Available Restrictions EastBound: Closed for the season Restrictions WestBound: Closed for the season My sincerest condolences to all the stranded 'Methowians/Methowites.' We'll see you again in late April when WSDOT plows the Highway for the opening of lowland lakes trout fishing. 11:37am from WSDOT: Hi all, The North Cascades Highway is officially closed for the Season. It had unofficially closed itself with the slides last Friday afternoon at 3:30 p.m. (Turns out Friday the 13th really was unlucky this time.) The avalanche crew went up to do the assessment early this morning. They found 20" of new snow at the closure gates since Sunday and 38" at Washington Pass. With the temperature fluxuation we've experienced, there's layering in the avalanche chutes and the forecast calls for more snow. If you were waiting for this so you can head up with your skis or snowmobile, please check the NWAvalancheCenter's back country avalanche advisories - The danger in the backcountry is high, too. We were all hoping that it would keep itself open through Thanksgiving, but I suppose if there's a bright spot - it's that the closure comes far enough before the holiday that no one is going to make plans to use SR 20 to get to grandma's house, this year. This is likely the last e-mail update until the crew goes up for the reopening assessment in late February or early March. Happy winter! Jeff Adamson adamsoj@wsdot.wa.gov 509-667-2815

Bump, just so folks aren't surprised.

Professor Cliff Mass (U of W Atmospheric Sciences) indicates a serious 'consolidation' of our current wonderful, early season snowpack given the Pineapple Express scenario. He characterizes the event as "serious and threatening." Thus; be prepared for a soggy mess, coupled with significant 'wet slab' potential. I'm somewhat bummed, but what can you do? More details @ [http//:cliffmassblogspot.com/] Cliff Mass Weather Blog (sorry, I can't seem to get the hyperlink to function)

I'll sure second Wayne's kudos to Polish Bob for an extraordinary video. Great to see the Professor (in more ways than one) Slawinski in action.

Don't worry Gene. I won't quit posting such access information as I encounter it. It's a 'Public Service" dear friends!

A big loss to the Alpine Climbing community. I just read in yesterday's Climbing Magazine e-update that a rescue party was about to reach his elevation and I'd hoped for the best.

Oh No! Here we go again Fred (and Larry and Blue and Paul and Scott and everyone else in the Mazama, Winthrop, Twisp Corridor) You should of expected it. It is Friday the Thirteenth after all! Today, Fri., 11/13/09 from WSDOT: Hi all, Bad news. Just got the word from Twisp - Liberty Bell #1 dumped snow six feet deep across the highway and the chutes next to it have become unstable, too. They're closing the gates as soon as they can get the traffic cleared. Too soon to say when/if it will reopen. If you were planning a trip over the North Cascades this weekend - your trip just got longer... Sorry, Jeff Adamson adamsoj@wsdot.wa.gov 509-669-8778 (24 hr. cell)

Sadly, both the G-Tex jacket and the blazer will be purchased by someone. Doubtless, both items will be in full display by the patrons at Whistler. What more is there to say?

Mr. Rogers' they just opened the highway again, perhaps just for you! Hi all, It's 12:40 p.m. - They just opened the gates. The North Cascades is open. Jeff Adamson adamsoj@wsdot.wa.gov 509.667.2815

From WSDOT on Tuesday, 11/10/09: Hi all, Just got a call from the avalanche crew. The North Cascades will reopen at 2 p.m. They found conditions much better than expected. Between now and two, the maintenance crews are cleaning up what dumped from some of the avalanche chutes (that are now stable) and clearing about 9" of snow off the pavement. Good News! Jeff Adamson adamsoj@wsdot.wa.gov 509.667.2815

From WSDOT 11/09/09: Hi all, Just a quick update. With the fronts coming through now and tonight (more snow has already started falling) and a forecast calling for 4 to 6 more inches, it's not safe for even our avalanche crew to go in today. (Of course with more snow falling, the avalanche threat will likely be different by tomorrow morning in any case). They're now planning to go up tomorrow (Tuesday) morning to see how many chutes may have filled and dumped, how many are still full, how stable the snow is and whether we can safely reopen it. If we can, bear in mind, it won't be just a matter of a couple hours. Clearing 2 to 3' or more of snow from 37 miles of highway takes some time... I'll let you know when I find out what the avalanche crew finds up there - probably late morning or early afternoon, when they're done assessing and get back into radio range. Jeff Adamson adamsoj@wsdot.wa.gov 509.667.2815 PS: WSDOT has closed Chinook and Cayuse for the winter.

From today's (10/21/09) NPS Morning Ranger Report. Always a great source for laughs. Grand Canyon National Park (AZ) Hikers Evacuated After Three SPOT Activations In Three Days On the evening of September 23rd, rangers began a search for hikers who repeatedly activated their rented SPOT satellite tracking device. The GEOS Emergency Response Center in Houston reported that someone in the group of four hikers – two men and their two teenaged sons – had pressed the “help” button on their SPOT unit. The coordinates for the signal placed the group in a remote section of the park, most likely on the challenging Royal Arch loop. Due to darkness and the remoteness of the location, rangers were unable to reach them via helicopter until the following morning. When found, they’d moved about a mile and a half to a water source. They declined rescue, as they’d activated the device due to their lack of water. Later that same evening, the same SPOT device was again activated, this time using the “911” button. Coordinates placed them less than a quarter mile from the spot where searchers had found them that morning. Once again, nightfall prevented a response by park helicopter, so an Arizona DPS helicopter whose crew utilized night vision goggles was brought in. They found that the members of the group were concerned about possible dehydration because the water they’d found tasted salty, but no actual emergency existed. The helicopter crew declined their request for a night evacuation, but provided them with water before departing. On the following morning, another SPOT “help” activation came in from the group. This time they were flown out by park helicopter. All four refused medical assessment or treatment. The group’s leader had reportedly hiked once at the Grand Canyon; the other adult had no Grand Canyon and very little backpacking experience. When asked what they would have done without the SPOT device, the leader stated, “We would have never attempted this hike.” The group leader was issued a citation for creating a hazardous condition (36 CFR 2.34(a)(4)). [submitted by Brandon Torres, Canyon District Shift Supervisor]