Dan_Miller

Here's a "little more" knowledgeable media report regarding the still ongoing 'Spire Point Situation' than that earlier released. From: KING 5's Web Site, 2 hikers stranded on mountain ledge 04:07 PM PDT on Thursday, August 28, 2008 By KING Staff MOUNT VERNON, Wash. — A man and woman remain stranded on a narrow ledge in the North Cascades. Sheriff's Search and Rescue spokesman Joel Pratt said the hikers, 33-year-old Matthew Edwards and 27-year-old Robin Gibson, both from Wisconsin, called Wednesday night to say they were stuck at about 6,000 feet in the area of Spire Point, east of Darrington. Pratt said Edwards and Gibson set out on the trail on Sunday and were descending when they lost much of their gear down the side of the mountain. What!! (emphasis mine) A Navy helicopter tried to reach them Wednesday night but deteriorating weather conditions forced the crew to return to Whidbey Island Naval Air Station. A specialized team from Pierce County was headed up to search for the hikers and helicopters from NAS Whidbey and from Fairchild Air Force base in Spokane are assisting. Search and rescue staff are worried about hypothermia. "The clothes that they had for dry clothes were in their packs. They're currently just wearing what they were wearing on their day hike, and they've been through several rain storms by now and one full evening," said Deputy Brad Holmes. The Skagit County Sheriff's Office says if the weather has not cleared enough to allow for an air rescue the tentative plan is to have mountain rescue personnel stay overnight with the stranded hikers.

Re the aircraft debris: Back in the early to mid 1980's a small plane crashed in the area you found it. It crashed on Thanksgiving day on a flight from a departure in Eastern Washington, if I recall correctly. I was asked by the Chief Backcountry/Wilderness Ranger the late Bill Lester to be on the lookout for it in my travels into that part of the Park. It was last shown on radar as disappearing 7 (if again I recall correctly) miles NW of Eldorado Peak. During my travels into that area I never saw any trace. The wreckage was in fact discovered (with the bodies) sometime in the later or possibly mid 1990's by two climbers on your Traverse or some variant of same.

Got to love your dedication to your objective. Keep at it!

When I first read this, and made the post I thought it might get people responding! It's a difficult and often dangerous peak; upon which, many very skilled and 'ballsy' climbers have in the past (and no doubt in the future as well) perished. There is a certain sense that it may be not much more complicated than that.

Paul, You, if anyone should know that Martin Peak, (adjacent to Bonanza peak) is an "official" Top 100. Many years ago I didn't find it to be too chossy, and certainly quite straightforward from Holden Pass. My congrats on your recent completion of said 100, etc.

From this morning's Seattle Times and the AP: K2 survivor faults gear, porter in deaths An Italian who survived an avalanche that killed fellow climbers on the world's second-highest peak said Wednesday that poor equipment and... By MUNIR AHMAD The Associated Press Marco Confortola of Italy was rescued Wednesday. ISLAMABAD, Pakistan — An Italian who survived an avalanche that killed fellow climbers on the world's second-highest peak said Wednesday that poor equipment and a mistake by a porter contributed to the tragedy. Marco Confortola was among 30 mountaineers who began their ascent of K2 on Friday. He was stranded after an ice fall swept some climbers away and left others stranded in frigid conditions just below the 28,250-foot summit. In all, 11 people died. Confortola said poor equipment — including ropes and spikes that broke — as well as sloppiness and inexperience were partly to blame for the disaster. A Dutch survivor, Wilco Van Rooijen, has said advance climbers laid ropes in wrong places, including in a treacherous gully known as "The Bottleneck," about 1,150 feet below the summit, where the avalanche later occurred. Confortola was rescued from K2 Wednesday and taken to a hospital with severe frostbite on his toes. "What happened on K2 was the result of many things, one of which was bad luck," he told Italian news agency ANSA. "There has been also some sloppiness. A 200-meter (656-feet) rope, very light but resistant ... has not been brought by a bit of a sloppy porter and we started to get trouble." K2 expeditions hire Pakistani tour operators who support them with porter services to carry gear to base camps and supply the camps. Confortola blamed the first death, of a Serbian climber, on the equipment, ANSA said. The dead included three South Koreans, two Nepalis, two Pakistanis and mountaineers from France, Ireland, and Norway as well. Van Rooijen, who was rescued Monday, also blamed mistakes in preparation — not just the avalanche — for the loss of life. He said the advance climbers who laid ropes caused hours of delays, so some climbers reached the summit just before nightfall, while others turned back. Ice overhanging the route fell as the fastest mountaineers were descending some of the iciest and most difficult sections just below the summit. Confortola said the expedition spent about an hour and a half under a huge block of ice overhanging the route, "and it's something you should not do at 8,400 meters (27,000 feet)." Fatal accidents are common on the treacherous peaks that attract top mountaineers to Pakistan each summer, but this is the deadliest incident in memory, surpassing the seven climbers killed on K2 during a fierce storm in 1995. K2, which straddles Pakistan and China, is regarded by mountaineers as far more challenging than Mount Everest, the world's highest peak. The mesmerizing giant pyramid of K2's knife-edged ridges and icy slopes are steeper and prone to both avalanches and sudden and severe storms. About 280 people have reached K2's summit since 1954, when it was first achieved by Italians Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli. Dozens of deaths have been recorded since 1939. Copyright © 2008 The Seattle Times Company

From this morning's Seattle Times. Not really a TR until this gentleman is 'debriefed.' GOVERNMENT CAMP, Ore. — Crews rescued a disoriented man from Mount Hood. The Clackamas County Sheriff's Office said 55-year-old Jeffrey Stanberry was carried off the mountain Wednesday afternoon and taken to a Gresham Hospital. Detective Jim Strovink said Stanberry told rescuers he rode a bus from Portland to Mount Hood with the intention of climbing to Illumination Rock. Stanberry wore light clothing and walking shoes. He had no food or water — only spiritual books in a backpack — when he was found at an elevation of 7,200 feet. Stanberry, who lists a Salvation Army address, couldn't say how long he was on the mountain, but Strovink said he might have been there for two days or more.

You know, if you keep posting these 'Repulsive' TR's these peaks will lose their 'repulsivity' character. Just a word to the wise.

Check this TR by Larry Goldie, IFMGA out: http://www.ncmountainguides.com/trips/challenger.html

Dan, My experience with it about four summers ago (lateish August, minimal if any snow; could hopefully be a little different this season) was that dropping off the ridge from E of White Pass down into the large basin above the headwaters of the Whitechuck River was mixed dirt/rock and somewhat loose and unpleasant for the first 100 or 200 vertical feet, than fairly easy typical alpine travel essentially North towards Glacier peak. There is a fairly distinct 'way trail' leading you in the direction you want to go from White Pass,(ie,. below White Mtn.) which just abruptly ends after approximately 1/2 to 2/3 of a mile. At that point just ascend to the ridge crest, where you will then have to discern the best spot to drop down off the ridge crest. Nothing you can't do though. Go get 'em.

FWIW from this morning's NPS Daily Ranger Report: North Cascades National Park (WA) Climber Rescued From Eldorado Glacier On July 18th, four climbers were ascending the lower slopes of the Eldorado Glacier when one member of the group had an unwitnessed fall down snow and a short rock cliff. His companions found him unconscious at the base of a rock-snow moat. One climber made a three-hour-long hike out to make a 911 call, while the remaining two climbers, one of them an ER physician, cared for their partner. Rangers arrived to the scene via the park’s on-call contract helicopter. After brief EMT care and packaging, the patient was short-hauled to a site lower on the mountain, where an Airlift NW medical helicopter could safely land. He was then flown to Harborview Medical Center in Seattle, where he remains in the neurological ICU with a critical head injury and bilateral arm fractures. [submitted by Kinsey Shilling, Chief Ranger]

Closed, only refers to automobile traffic. People have been regularily walking it this season with no ill effects.

In a nutshell: 1. Up the North Fork Sauk River Trail to White Pass. 2. Then, to Red Pass on the Crest Trail. 3. Down the Crest Trail to the White Chuck Meadows at roughly 5000ft., then East up onto the greatly receeded White Chuck Glacier. 4. Then as terrain allows head North to Glacier Peak. Yes, it certainly is a considerable distance. Check Beckey's CAG Vol. II, I believe it is chronicled there.

Harts Pass 5400 Open to Harts Pass. Snow blocks road 1/2 mile above Harts Pass, blocking access to Slate Peak and trailheads to the north. Snow blocks road beyond Meadows Campground to trailhead to PCT and to Grasshopper Pass. Snow blocks 700 Road toward Chancellor. 07/03/2008

Here's the latest (07/03/08) from the NOCA NPS website: Cascade River Road is closed at mile 20 (the Eldorado parking area). Closed at mile 12.75 on Wednesday July 9 and Thursday July 10 from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. for bridge repair. Check the park conditions page for more details, including all road conditions. Expected to open to Cascade Pass trailhead on July 12.

Check this out Pete: http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7967899 It will likely answer most of your questions.

High marks for this one Tvash!. Thanks for sharing.

My guess is that the road to the viewpoint at Artist Point will be passable in early August possibly.

This post from NWHikers.net, may assist in determining the relative accessibility of the Teanaway and its upper branches: Wed May 28, 2008 9:41 am -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Two more bits of possibly useful info, plus a reminiscence: 1) By this coming weekend, I bet the hike:ski ratio will be a tad high for my tastes in Bean Creek Basin. I suspect there would still be skiable areas on the north-facing slopes. 2) The Teanaway road past Beverly Creek was blocked by a significant pile of snow sormewhere before we reached the Iron trailhead. We investigated tihs on the theory that if this road went past Iron, we'd rather ski up toward Ingalls Peak. If that road opens up over the course of this week, then the time would be about perfect for hitting Ingalls, which can have a high slog factor if you hit it just a little early or a little late. And the reminiscence: in our first 3-4 trips skiing in Bean area, we found that when the road was clear to the trailhead, we picked up skiable snow at about the creek crossing. Once we even managed to ski over the creek on deep snow, had to take skis off for a brief bit of the Bean trail near the junction with the Beverly trail, and then were able to put skis back on for a glide nearly to the car parked at the trailhead! In the last several years, we seem to find that as soon as the road is open to or even just near to the trailhead, we have to hike to well above the creek crossing. There's something different about the deposition and/or meltout pattern in more recent years, and I don't like it!!

Take a look at the Montrail CTC Mid's. Enough ankle protection and I've used my Stubai aluminum's successfully on them a few times.

Here's the NPS's latest on the Cascade River Road as of 05/22/08: Cascade River Road (off State Route 20 at mile 106) Partial Elevation at road's end: 3,600'. Closed at mile 12.7 due to bridge damage caused by avalanche. Temporary repairs (one-lane bridge) expected by June. Additional road repairs at mile 20 and beyond still will need to be fixed. Road currently passable to mile 12.7, small turn-around, no trailers. Leave room for repair crew rigs to pass by. For skiers or bikers, road has patchy snow from mile 14 to ~ mile 20, then solid snow. Lots of downed trees and some avy chutes to cross.

Here's a little more on the Upper Icicle Road Washouts: News Release Flooding and debris flow impact Icicle Valley access USDA Forest Service Okanogan and Wenatchee National Forests Contact: Wenatchee River Ranger District office at 509-548-6977 May 21, 2008 A drastic change in weather patterns created rapid snow melt, triggering a snow and debris slide that closed roads and campgrounds in the Icicle Valley this past weekend. The large debris slide carried trees, mud and huge boulders into Icicle Creek, effectively pushing the already flood swollen waters over the main Icicle Road ( FS Road #7600), approximately 15 miles southwest of Leavenworth, WA. Several campers were temporarily stranded because of the blocked road, but no injuries were reported. The mud and debris flow roared down Doctor Creek, a steep creek drainage located near Victoria and Ruth Lakes, and tore out portions of FS Road #7605. Roads and campground closures will remain until flood waters recede, damage can be assessed, and repairs made. It is apparent after initial aerial surveys that this is going to be a long-term closure due to extensive damage to the main Icicle Road. Closed indefinitely are: FS Road #7605, at the bridge where it crosses Doctor Creek. Icicle Road #7600, at Ida Creek. Chatter Creek, Rock Island and Blackpine campgrounds. Trailhead access to upper portions of the Icicle Valley may be impacted. Access via Eightmile Road into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness is not affected.

This, just in from WADOT: Hi all, It happened. The highway closed itself. We're getting slides now - the crew is cleaning up one at Liberty Bell #2 that came down a little while ago. The gates won't actually be closed and locked for another couple of hours since we've got cars parked up there and we've got to find and get those recreational users out. In the meantime, we don't want anybody else up there because we don't know when or where the next slide is going to come. (But we know it will!) Hi all, The North Cascades Highway is closing at 6 a.m. tomorrow morning unless it closes itself sooner than that. Our avalanche team won't go back in to reassess the conditions until Monday. Right now, they've got a couple dozen avalanche chutes between Diablo and Silver Star that are full and becoming more unstable by the hour as the temperature continues to climb. You'll find this information on our traffic and roads web page and on 5-1-1 and on the North Cascades web page and the information is also going out in a statewide news release from Olympia that will also include avalanche and snow melt and river level issues statewide. The NW Avalanche Center has also issued a back country avalanche warning advising everyone to stay home this weekend. You can stop reading now - that's the news - but to answer some questions you haven't asked yet: "No, avalanche control isn't an option under these conditions on the North Cascades." Here's why: As opposed to the passes that stay open all winter, we don't have any avalanche control facilities in place on SR 20. On Stevens, we've got two M-60 tanks positioned to shoot explosives into the starting zone of the avalanche chutes on the west side of the summit. We've also got a remote radio controlled box of rockets to address some avalanche chutes on the east side of the summit and we've got some snow-cat-usable trails cut above the starting zones of some of the other avalanche chutes that aren't in the range of either the tanks or the remote controlled rockets. (Those are the places where the avalanche crew has to drive up and set off satchel charges by hand. It's what Mike Stanford was doing in the 3 a.m., 100 mph wind video that KING TV ran back on Feb. 10 when we were closed for 54 hours. By the way, that's still available on the WSDOT YouTube site). The only avalanche control tool we've got for the North Cascades is the howitzer which can be mounted on the snow cat's trailer. It works okay to dislodge snow from the lower portions of Liberty Bell's chutes, but most of the other chute's starting zones are out of range and we don't have any snow cat trails cut in because that's Park Service or Forest Service land and for a highway that's closed 5 months a year, it would be pretty hard to justify putting those kinds of permanent "roads" in place. Besides that, we couldn't put them in above a lot of chutes at all, due to the terrain. The North Cascades, besides having more avalanche chutes than anywhere else, also has some of the tallest/longest ones. Delivering ordinance to the top of an avalanche chute that starts between 7 and 9,000 feet isn't feasible. This weekend's situation is highly unusual in that by this time of year, the chutes aren't still full. This spring has been so cold that, while full, the chutes have remained stable. This 30+ degree rise heats up the top layer of snow, making it heavier and creating a slip-plane with the layer below. That's what's happening now and if it slides, what's coming down is going to have the consistency of wet concrete and will probably bring rocks and wood debris with it, so you wouldn't want to be on the highway when that happens. If they find significant slides on Monday - it could take several days to clean up. All we can do is tell you to check the web pages or call 5-1-1. I'll send another e mail Monday when the crew gets back in radio range and tells me what they found and what happens next. Jeff

BACKCOUNTRY AVALANCHE STATEMENT FOR THE OLYMPICS WASHINGTON CASCADES AND MT HOOD AREA NORTHWEST WEATHER AND AVALANCHE CENTER SEATTLE WASHINGTON 830 AM PDT TUE MAY 13 2008 NWAC Program administered by: USDA-Forest Service with cooperative funding and support from: Washington State Department of Transportation National Weather Service National Park Service Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission Pacific Northwest Ski Area Association Friends of the Avalanche Center and other private organizations. This statement applies to back country avalanche terrain below 7000 feet and does not apply to highways or operating ski areas. WAZ513-518-519-019-042-501-502-ORZ011-141700- && ..RAIN AND SIGNIFICANT WARMING TO PROVIDE SUBSTANTIALLY INCREASING AVALANCHE DANGER THIS WEEK... With the exception of a few periods of brief warming, an unusually cool and snowy spring has been experienced in the Northwest to date. This has produced periods of great late season powder while maintaining a mostly stable and generally refrozen mid snowpack below a diurnally developing layer of moist to wet snow or slush in the upper 1 to 3 feet of near surface snow. Field reports have indicated surface snow conditions ranging from the good-a few inches of recent soft snow over a firm base, to the bad-a trap crust over mush, as well as a variety of conditions in between. The overall cool conditions have produced some, though rather limited spring avalanche activity as daily warming has slowly warmed and weakened near surface snow. Most meltwater percolation and associated snowpack weakening have been confined to upper snowpack layers, at least at mid and upper elevations above about 4 to 5000 feet. However, this rather benign spring snowpack evolution is expected to change significantly this week, when rain at slowly rising freezing levels Tuesday into early Wednesday should be followed by sustained high freezing levels reaching 13,000 to 15,000 feet later Wednesday through Saturday. These prolonged and unusually high freezing levels for May are the highest since last summer. In any case, rainwater weakening and lubricating of near surface snow Tuesday should be rapidly followed by increasing amounts of meltwater percolating into and weakening progressively deeper snowpack layers. Combined with some early winter faceting and weakening of several layers near the ground, this sudden and sustained warming of the Northwest snowpack should result in a significant spring avalanche cycle, with some slides possibly involving all of this past winter's snowcover. An increasing moderate to considerable avalanche danger from rain on Tuesday should precede a considerable to locally high danger expected to develop in many areas mid-late Wednesday through Saturday. While the rain affected danger increase should develop on all exposures, sun and warming related danger should initially develop most significantly on southeast through southwest exposures Wednesday and Thursday. However, its cumulative effects should progress to most exposures and to increasingly high elevations later Thursday through Saturday due to the combined effects of very warm temperatures, high sun angle, substantial snow melt, light winds and only minimal overnight refreezing of surface snow. Due to the evolving danger, a variety of avalanches are likely and should range from initial small wet loose releases to increasingly large wet loose or wet slab slides, with some isolated slides possibly extending full path length or more, and some extending into relatively flat terrain runouts. As a result, back country travelers from climbers to snowmobilers, skiers to snowboarders, hikers to snowshoers, should all exercise increasing caution in avalanche terrain Tuesday and Wednesday, with travel in steeper avalanche terrain not recommended Thursday through Saturday, especially on slopes not experiencing recent avalanche activity. Travelers should be especially cautious on slopes with overhanging cornices or below icefalls, which may become very active later this week, and may be the trigger for some of the larger slide releases expected. This statement will be updated as conditions warrant. &&

Way to keep your head about you Amar! It seems you two did just fine. This has been one of the most informative TR's in awhile in my opinion.