Dan_Miller

Just noticed this bit of info on the WTA website: Bad news for north-side Mt. Baker Access. Glacier Creek Road Closed Posted by Steve Duda at Feb 18, 2009 11:25 AM | Permalink Recent storm damage has washed out Glacier Creek Road, closing access to the Heliotrope Ridge trailhead and the Mt. Baker Vista Viewpoint. Glacier Creek Road (Forest Service Road 39) starts at mile post 35 off the Mt. Baker Scenic Highway (Scenic Route 542). Road damage at Glacier Creek “The rain and snow initiated a rock and debris flow down a creek drainage washing out half the road,” said Jim Mitchell, roads manager with the Mt. Baker Snoqualmie National Forest. The road is closed at the Thompson Creek Bridge crossing eliminating recreational access. “Glacier Creek Road is the access point to the Heliotrope Ridge trailhead and the Mt. Baker Vista Viewpoint,” said Mitchell. “Heliotrope Ridge Trail is a major climbing route to Mt. Baker, and Glacier Creek Road during winter becomes a snow park popular with snowmobilers,” he said. At this time there is no way to construct a temporary bypass. “The road could be closed well into the summer season and may be open around August,” said Mitchell. “We will know more as soon as we can determine what can be built,” he said. For further road and trail developments check the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest website at http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/conditions/index.shtml.

By the show's producers thinking; surf instructor, rock climber, caterer, or florist are all essentially the same when it comes to mid-life crisis folks. I suppose that's essentially correct.

My understanding is that the road has been plowed to the area of the bridge over Lookout Creek. This is about seven (?) miles from Marblemount. This bit of info was gleaned from a trip report on NWHiker.net from last weekend, wherein someone trudged up to Lookout Mtn. Dan

As usual, I pass this email on to those who may have an interest in such matters. Hi all, Our Avalanche Crew has set Monday, February 23rd as their target to do the reopening assessment trip to Washington and Rainy passes. They'll measure the avalanche chutes, and snow depths, and do their snow analysis and look at the long range forecasts and then determine when it might be safe and reasonable to start the spring reopening effort. Expect to get the next update Tuesday or Wednesday, the 24th or 25th, provided the trip takes place as they're planning. (I know a lot of you are avid winter recreationists, but after December's snow and January's floods - I'm looking forward to spring!) Jeff Adamson WSDOT NC Region Communications Manager Wenatchee What's the deal? Do they know something about winter coming to a close early or something.

It seems, the consensus opinion on this board would be Verizon. A search of this site should reveal the same.

Typically, this time of year the Cascade River Road may be plowed to the 'Cascade River Park' development at about the four mile point. Not certain if anyone lives (at least on a permanent basis) further up the road than this. The road up to the North Cascade Park boundry (approx. 18 mile point) is maintained by Skagit County. Some years the road is fairly passible to the NOCA NPS road gate (at about the twenty mile point) located at the gravel pit parking area adjacent to the start of the path between Roush and Eldorado Creeks which leads up towards Eldorado and environs. I bet right now it's not very driveable even with 4WD. Bring skis.

From WSDOT's Jeff Adamson 12:43p, 12/15/08: Hi all, We got 14" of new snow (bringing the roadside total between Rainy and Washington passes to 30"), but we didn't get any major slides. Avalanche Control tells me that's due to the -5 degree temperatures which is keeping it stable at the moment. At the same time, Avalanche says the only prudent thing to do is leave it closed. In a nutshell, it would take well into Tuesday to clean up the 37 miles of highway between the east and west closure gates. Unfortunately, the next front is forecast to begin dropping what could be between 12 and 16 inches of new snow starting between midnight and 4 a.m. Wednesday morning. That snow, coupled with the forecast wind, will form an unstable layer putting the avalanche danger "way too high". The forecast then calls for a break on Friday, followed by another front on Friday night that will bring a lot more snow (described in the forecast as "mammoth"!). On the bright side - the highway stayed open a week and a half later than last year. On the not so bright side - the avalanche danger is probably going to inhibit a lot of back country recreation between now and Christmas until all the chutes fill and dump and then we get a break in the weather. Check with the Forest Service or Park Service before you go. WSDOT won't have anyone working beyond the gates and we'll no longer being doing pass reports for a closed pass. The links on the North Cascades Highway web page to the cameras at Newhalem and Winthrop and the back country weather station near Washington pass, as well as the weather service forecasts will still be useful as you plan your outings. Unless something unusual happens - don't expect more of these e mails until sometime in late February or early March when the Avalanche crew does their spring opening assessment trip. Be safe, Jeff

From Jeff Adamson at WSDOT, 12/10/08: Hi all, Here's the text of the news release I just sent posted: WENATCHEE - A weekend forecast for 1-1/2 to 3-feet of snow, high winds and much colder temperatures beginning Friday has prompted the Washington State Department of Transportation (WSDOT) to temporarily close the North Cascades Highway at 7 p.m. Thursday night, December 11th. Twisp Maintenance Supervisor Don Becker says, "Avalanche chutes can fill and release in as few as 20 minutes under the right conditions which is faster than we can react to keep motorists or our crews safe. We don't want to risk back country recreationists getting caught in a potentially dangerous storm event either. We'll go back in on Monday and evaluate conditions for reopening." Becker says crews will check all the parking areas between the two closure gates to "make sure everyone is out." While the storm front isn't expected to bring the heavy snow until Friday afternoon, "Having the gates closed Thursday night will keep anyone who didn't get the word from getting up there and caught in the weather event that's coming." Four inches of new snow fell overnight. "Rainy and Washington passes are 1,000 feet higher than Stevens and 2,000 higher than Snoqualmie so typically, they get more snow, sooner and it's colder," according to NCRegion Avalanche technician Mike Stanford. The key to reopening is stability of the snow in the chutes and that will depend on how much snow comes down and the temperature. Stanford says, "By Monday, we could be looking at avalanche chutes with firm and stable snow or dangerous layers of unstable snow." If it can be reopened, it will likely take crews a day or more to clear the roadway for traffic. SR 20 is gated closed between milepost 134, seven miles east of Diablo Dam on the west side of 4,855' Rainy Pass and milepost 171, nine miles west of Mazama on the east side of 5,477' Washington Pass. The North Cascades Highway usually closes between Thanksgiving week and mid December, re-opening in late April or early May. The highway closed last winter on December 4th and reopened last spring, on May 1st. Visit the North Cascades Web page: www.wsdot.wa.gov/traffic/passes/northcascades that includes the opening and closing dates since the highway first opened in 1972. PS: I'm trying to get a picture of the new snow from our avalanche or maintenance folks, and if successful, I'll get it posted on the the WSDOT FlickR site (the post Thanksgiving picture we posted got better than a thousand hits!) I know this is a disappointment for those of you who were planning on cross country skiing this weekend, but we can't risk having drivers stuck up there between a pair of snowslides this weekend. If the cold temps on Monday stabilize things - it's still going to take a day or so to plow it all and reopen - so don't plan on using the highway again until sometime Tuesday, if it can be reopened. I still don't quite know how I managed it - but the news release version I sent to you said 7 p.m. tomorrow was the closure time. It's not - the closure time was extended to midnight and the news release was changed before it was posted. Somehow, I managed to paste an early "draft" version of the news release in my e mail to you. Sorry to clutter your in box with a revision - but those 5 hours could be important to some of you. Again, my apologies - I'll proofread my messages more closely next time.Jeff Jeff

Kudos on a very tough night out. Great Sufferage.

From WADOT 11:00a 12/02/08: Hi all, Dustin and I have been getting calls and e mails asking about the status of the North Cascades - It's still open. Before Thanksgiving, the tall (6 to 8,000 foot starting zone) avalanche chutes were about halfway to where they'd need to be to cause a threat and we haven't gotten much more snow (6 to 10,000 feet) over the last week. The forecast doesn't call for much more for the rest of the week, so until we get some "winter" it's going to continue as it has - crews plowing, etc. as needed. Our forecaster says Washington Pass ought to get another 2-3 inches between now and Thursday, which isn't real "threatening". Here's the most recent forecast from mid morning: "Weather as of 1030 Tue was not looking too bad, with Washington pass area flurries and light snow showers. However, some concerns exist. New info suggesting a broken up array of scattered light and short term shower threats sweeping N to S through the area later today into early evening followed by N to S area clearing. A breezy N wind picks up overnight, but a light freeze will occur too. Basically, anything still damp by 9 p.m. is a black ice threat. Basically, if we get the evening showers, then the freeze will follow by midnight. Wed through Fri is dry, with cooler overnight temps and increasing frost." Remember that the traditional closure dates are between Thanksgiving week and the 2nd week of December. One substantial storm is really all that is needed to fill those chutes and cause the avalanches that will close it for the season - and it's very likely to happen over the next two or three weeks, but who knows? We have around 14" to 16" of snow on the ground at the summit. A General rule for avalanche danger that closes the highway is 24" to 36" of snow coupled with some additional trigger, i.e. rain or more snow or a big temperature change. When the season closure comes, it usually happens fast, so if you're planning a trip, check the pass report and the web page (www.wsdot.wa.gov/traffic/passes/northcascades/) before you leave or call 5-1-1. Washington and Rainy are a thousand feet higher than Stevens and two thousand higher than Snoqualmie, so they often get snow when the others are getting rain. I'll send out one of these e mails when the closure comes or if there's something going on up there that prompts one sooner than that. Jeff

It's sort of 'Skoog" like I think. With the Mountain Bars and all, seems kinda chiseled in stone.

First Ascent of Siguniang Southwest Ridge (Photos at Alpinist.com) The southwest ridge of Siguniang (6250m) was summited in eight days by Dylan Johnson and Chad Kellogg. From September 21 through 30, Chad Kellogg and I completed the first ascent of the southwest ridge of Siguniang (6250m), Changping Valley, China. The route began with 2,500 feet of steep rainforest, weaving through cliff bands to the base of a granite wall at 14,200 feet. Making three bivis on the 2000-foot wall, we climbed a direct line through vertical crack systems with free climbing up to 5.11 and much A2 complicated by grass and moss in the cracks. We topped out the wall after seventeen pitches in the middle of the fourth day, and from this point onward, the route changed to remarkable alpine ridge climbing while the weather deteriorated to white out fog and snow flurries. The rest of day four and all of day five were spent navigating the crest, weaving between dozens of gendarmes. This rock ridge, which we dubbed "The Rake"(after a similar peak in our local Cascade Mountains), ended at camp 5 (16,800') just before the notch below the upper mountain. Throughout day six the weather worsened to sleet with near zero visibility as we ascended through the notch and up a 500-foot verglassed rock step. The notch itself proved to be the crux of The Rake, with several outrageously slender gendarmes and much snow-covered rock. We chopped camp 6 (17,400') into the hanging glacier above the rock step. Day seven included the mixed climbing crux of the route, two pitches of snowy rock (M5) to gain the crest above the seracs on the north side of the ridge. The weather continued to provide snow flurries and no visibility. We enjoyed absolutely classic alpine ridge climbing for the second half of the day. Hundreds of meters of happy cowboys (riding the crest like a bull) on both snow and rock, hooking tools on the crest, and navigating rocks and cornices. Camp 7, on a glacial shelf at 18,300 feet, offered the first flat ground we'd set foot on since base camp. The two climbers encountered several sections of ridgeline which required them to straddle as they traversed. [Photo] Dylan Johnson On the morning of day eight (despite being three days behind schedule) we cached our camp and set off for the summit amid yet another whiteout. We were quite thankful the ridge was so well defined, as we could climb in poor weather and stay on route. Snow and ice runnels bisecting the upper rock steps led to a happy cowboy finale followed by a mixed traverse on the south face. By mid afternoon we reached the summit seracs. A short vertical ice pitch provided access to the upper snow slopes, and we traversed north under the false summit, reaching the rimed summit at 4:35 p.m. Promptly encouraged by the darkening wall of hate boiling and flashing to the west, we began our descent. Just before dark we reached the happy cowboy as the lightning storm worsened and drew close, striking the ridge several times directly above our heads. We took refuge on the mixed traverse south of the crest and waited for the lightening to subside. One hour later we dashed across the happy cowboy and continued rappelling towards our high camp cache. By 11:00 p.m., at 19,000 feet in stormy weather, we could not find the gully leading down to the high camp cache. We spent the night climbing and down climbing the sixty-degree snow in an attempt to stay warm. At dawn, both encrusted in rime ourselves, the clouds parted and we saw the route down to high camp. Chad Kellogg after a long night out at 20,000 feet. [Photo] Dylan Johnson Delighted to find our cache and finally get some improving weather, we gathered our things and started to rappel the south face from a point directly below our high camp. Nine days into our seven-day supply, reversing the ridge to the cache to descend the gully south of the notch was out of the question. The climbing separating us from the cache was much more difficult and time consuming than we had expected. After approximately thirty rappels with our skinny alpine rack we touched down on the glacier at 15,600 feet with no pins, four stoppers, three cams, no runners and about 15 feet of tat left on the rack. Anxious to avoid another night in our soggy down bags, we opted to descend to base camp that night. At 10:30 p.m., in the pouring rain, we found ourselves hopelessly lost in the brush at 14,200 feet. Lacking flat ground, we built a crude stone ledge in the talus, pitched the tent and settled in for a final, miserable night (forty-two hours had passed since our last bivi and fifty-two since our last meal). The tenth day we hiked down to the Changping Valley, getting cliffed out in several locations and having to cross a gorge at 13,600 feet. The yak trail, as we saw from below, is on the north side of the valley, along the base of the walls. We reached base camp that afternoon at 2:30 p.m. I lost over 30 pounds during the climb, Chad over 20. The route followed one rest day after a six-day acclimatization climb, a second ascent of a nearby peak by a 3000-foot rock climb (5.8, 12 pitches) topping out at 19,000 feet. Spanning a six-day weather window, sixteen of seventeen consecutive days were spent climbing. Congratulations to Chad and Dylan on what appears to be a really cool new route on a quite striking peak!

"Graybeard" Peak Yes, I understood what you were referring to, however in the interest of correctness, I must correct. It's a really long ways in the winter, when the Highway is closed. Possibly accesible via snowmachine or a lengthy ski. Spring's the time, as soon as possible after the Highway opens. Talk to Wayne Wallace or Mike Layton, DC about the potential avalanche hazards. Cheers, Dan

Hardman on the W Ridge, note the "bare hands." Good work!

Do not overlook the Dynafit line of products. Even if you're set on the Fritschi's, Dynafit's skis and new boot models are certainly worthy of one's attention. Seems like a sizeable number of backcountry and lift served skiers in this area are quite sold on them.

Generally, once a ski has delaminated enough that the wood core is at all exposed; the ski is quite likely toast (it will absorb water, internally swell up and rapidly cause more delamination (yes, a little glimpse of the obvious here). Were I you, I'd argue strongly for a new pair (gratis) from the good folks at Great Guides Gear.

No question about it; get ski mountainering (randonee) boots before you snap your tib/fib and/or ankle joint. It is very difficult to maintain proper balance over your skiis with the very minimal calf/shin support even the burliest of plastic double boots may provide. Heed our warnings, the posters above 'know' what they're speaking about. Enough said!

Got to love those gear close-ups! It really 'puts' the viewer almost on the rock. Doesn't it? Since when did rock routes become "courses"? It's not a goddamn country club. It's as though they thought he chose a too difficult golf course for his current skill level. Again the News hasn't any clue. So it goes.

From WADOT at 10:00am 10/07/08: Hi all, Just got a call from Twisp Maintenance Supervisor Don Becker who says it started snowing again and he's got crews plowing about 2 inches of slush off the North Cascades from Rainy Pass east for about ten miles to Cutthroat Ridge (below Washington Pass). It's 35 degrees now (9:30 a.m.) and the forecaster says we can expect some more snow off and on throughout the day, so Don says the crews will keep on plowing as necessary. Here's the forecast: Snow levels will be dropping down to near 4,000 feet this morning with frequent snow showers and squalls throughout the day over the North Cascades passes. Roads likely remain wet at the 4,000 ft level, however, 2-4" snow accums are likely up above 5,000 feet near the Washington Pass area. Snow showers continue tonight with snow levels falling down to near 3,500 feet with potential road accums down to 4,000 feet. Another system will bring an increase in mountain snow on Thursday with snow levels possibly dropping below 3,000 feet! I've gotten calls from some hunters who were asking about driving conditions. Becker says it's not bad - but don't try to pass the snow plows - it's pretty easy to lose control in slush when you're driving too fast and start hydroplaning. If you go = be prepared! Thanks, Jeff Yeah!!

From this morning's Seattle PI, FWIW: Last updated October 1, 2008 11:31 p.m. PT This winter, expect ... absolutely anything El Niño and La Niña are so yesteryear By MIKE BARBER P-I REPORTER The region's weather forecasters studied sea surface temperatures, examined soil moisture and pored over data from sensors far out in the Pacific to forecast the weather in the next three months. And their conclusion is a resounding who knows. It could flood, but there's almost as good a chance it won't. Snow? Windstorms? Maybe not, but then you can't be too sure. That was the message Wednesday when the National Weather Service briefed reporters and officials whose utilities and agencies must respond to weather-related emergencies in the first months of winter. With only three possible outcomes -- a drier El Niño, a wetter La Niña or a somewhat inconclusive category called ENSO (El Niño Southern Oscillation) -- the answer for the upcoming winter of 2008-09 is: Neutral. ENSO Neutral. What does that mean? There's an even chance temperatures and such could be above or below normal this winter -- there aren't a lot of strong trends evident. What does that really mean? Well, given the Northwest's three major weather sources of damage -- floods, windstorms and lowland snow -- big floods can occur in the "neutral" years. The Northwest's winter floods of 1990-91 and 1995-96 were in ENSO neutral years. The chances of major windstorms and lowland snow are a little less likely but possible. The 1962 Columbus Day storm and the 1979 Hood Canal storm occurred in neutral years. At the same time, odds are about even for above-normal temperatures in October, November and December, said Kirby Cook, science and operations officer for the National Weather Service Seattle/Tacoma. It "likely will stay a little drier than what we've seen." It's all very fluid. Overall, looking at the factors from this far out, neutral years simply provide meteorologists with "a tough (winter) forecast to make," Cook said. Crapshoots. El Niño and La Niña years, by contrast, send stronger signals of what we might expect. Regardless, long-range outlooks are about probabilities. The tendency of bigger winter flooding in neutral years is just that, a probability, and one based upon a short history. A 55 percent chance of flooding also carries a 45 percent chance there will not be any. Best bet -- pay attention to the short-term forecasts during the season. In the Pacific Northwest, officials said you should make a habit of being prepared, including having emergency kits, cleaning around storm drains, checking what you'd need in a prolonged power outage and examining trees for trimming. "The bottom line is that regardless, we can have significant weather at any time here in the Pacific Northwest. We can have crazy (winter) weather anytime. The big message from last season is to be prepared for weather that can impact us," Cook said. Andy Wappler of Puget Sound Energy, a former television weatherman, said that regardless of the "neutral" outlook, the utility isn't taking any chances. Past experiences have taught everyone to be ready for whatever Mother Nature tosses this way. The utility, and a state Department of Transportation spokeswoman, said both agencies are gearing up to meet the worst possible winter weather challenges with rapid response and enhanced services.

By KOMO Staff GRANITE FALLS - A break in the weather allowed rescue crews to pluck an injured hiker off Three Fingers Mountain via helicopter Monday afternoon, but a second injured hiker near Buck Creek Pass is still working on getting out. Lt. R.C. Rochon with the Snohomish County Sheriff's Department says crews were able to get a Snohawk helicopter to the injured hiker near Three Fingers around 2:10 p.m. and flew the victim to Providence's Colby Campus hospital in Everett. Workers who assisted in the rescue were making their way off the mountain on foot. A second hiker who suffered a broken leg in a separate incident near Buck Creek Pass was still in the process of making his way off the mountain with rescuers to get medical treatment. The first hiker was injured Sunday while hiking on 6,870-foot Three Fingers Mountain about 11 miles east of Granite Falls. Officials said the man was with a group when he fell about 100 feet onto boulders Sunday morning at about 8:50 a.m. The victim said his legs were injured in the fall, but he didn't believe anything was broken, just severely sprained. One of the teams had reached the hiker by 5 p.m. Sunday and by late Monday morning they had made their way back to the main trail. But rescuers were initially hindered by extremely bad weather in their efforts to get the hiker out, said a spokesman for the Snohomish Search and Rescue. Meanwhile, another team with Snohomish Search and Rescue reached a stranded hiker who suffered a broken leg near Buck Creek Pass, north of Trinity in Glacier Peak Wilderness of Wenatchee National Forest in the Cascades. At about 1:11 p.m. Sunday, the man used a ham radio to signal for help. His signal reached someone in Bozeman, Mont., who then contacted Snohomish Search and Rescue. Communication between the rescuers and the victim was being conducted via Morse code. He was reached by rescuers Monday morning and was being loaded on horseback for the ride out, which was expected to take several hours and he was not expected to be off the mountain until late Monday. The National Weather Service warned that anyone camping or hiking in the Cascade Mountains should be prepared for cold weather overnight and prepare accordingly. Up to an inch of snow is possible in the higher mountain passes by Monday morning, according to a special weather statement issued by the Weather Service. Perhaps we should all be carrying Ham Radio Units and learning Morse Code. What Say?

From 09/12/08 NOCA NPS updated Trail Report: Cascade River Road will close to vehicular traffic for the season at the Eldorado Creek parking area (milepost 20) beginning Monday, September 15. This will allow bridge installation and permanent road repairs. Hikers may walk past the construction site to access Cascade Pass, though short delays may be required.

Don't overlook the 'Dolomitti' by Integral Design. It's primaloft with Pertex outer fabric; and 'weightwise,' it's right in there with the Das Parka. Two years now, and I've been real happy with it as a basic colder weather belay parka. I've a lighter weight synthetic parka (old Go-lite 'Coal') used during summer months. I would use the Dolomitti at any time on Rainier or higher for certain. More food for thought.

PLB saves the Day? More on 'Mountain Rescue Season.' From today's NPS Daily Ranger Report: Olympic National Park (WA) Rangers Rescue Injured Man from Bailey Range A 41-year-old Auburn man was airlifted from the Bailey Range on Sunday, August 31st, after falling about 150 feet down a steep slope. Trevin Lambert sustained multiple injuries, but was able to walk, with assistance from rangers, to a helicopter. He was flown to Fairchild International Airport in Port Angeles, then transported via ambulance to Olympic Memorial Hospital. Rangers were alerted to Lambert’s injury at approximately 11:20 a.m. on Sunday morning when the park’s dispatch center was contacted by a personal locator beacon (PLB) service with the information that Lambert’s PLB had transmitted a 911 message. The 911 message included Lambert’s precise location, using GPS coordinates. Three rangers responded by helicopter and found Lambert just south of Eleven Bull Basin. Although he was still able to walk, the terrain was extremely steep and unstable and rangers used a technical rope rescue in order to bring him to the helicopter landing area. The helicopter met the injured man at approximately 7:10 p.m.; he reached the Fairchild International Airport at about 7:30 p.m. Personal locator beacons use satellite technology to transmit location and brief messages. More information can be found by going to http://www.sarsat.noaa.gov/ and clicking on "Emergency Beacons." The Bailey Range is an extremely rugged area of the park’s wilderness and is recommended only for very experienced and fit hikers who are comfortable with route-finding and traveling on steep, exposed slopes and loose rock. Lambert is described as being very experienced and fit; he fell after losing his balance on loose rocks. Lambert was in his second day of a planned five-day traverse of the trail-less Bailey Range. [submitted by Barb Maynes, Public Affairs Specialist]

From Today's Seattle Times: Two hikers rescued from Mount Baker Tuesday Two hikers were rescued on Mount Baker Tuesday after they were reported missing Sunday. By Seattle Times staff Two hikers were rescued on Mount Baker Tuesday after they were reported missing Sunday. Rescuers from the Naval Air Station on Whidbey Island rescued the pair who were at the 8,400-foot level of the mountain. One hiker had suffered a broken ankle. Despite deteriorating weather, crews were able to hoist the hikers out of the snowy weather and take them to St. Joseph's Hospital in Bellingham. Last week, crews from Whidbey Island Search and Rescue and others came to the aid of two hikers from Massachusetts who had been trapped on a ledge for three days in the North Cascades. Copyright © 2008 The Seattle Times Company