boadman

Nice! I need to fight off the momentum and make it up there next next season for sure.

nice link to the fuddyduddy forum on the taco, but are you thinking of cc.comers that qualify as all around yosemite 5.11 crack climbing experts or as tiresome windbags who whine ceaselessly about how things ain't so good as they were back in the day of the stonedmasters? seems like there are more than "a couple" on this site who qualify for the latter. So, if your one of them, who is the "other" one that qualifies? Ivan? I'm a solid 5.6 trad climber, does that mean I'm half a 5.11 trad-master? A bit more than half, to be precise. [video:youtube] I think the point of the post by John Long was that calling oneself a 5.11 climber and being able to climb any 5.11 onsight regardless of style is a fairly select club. I am most certainly not in this club... I'd say Ben is, souldreaper is, mike is, etc...there are some awesome climbers on this site...that was my point...Pysched on the NW climbers! I bet if you asked all three of those guys if they've failed to onsight an 11 at Index within the last couple of years, they'd say yes. (not to imply that they're not all fantastic climbers)

Does Index count? If so, I'm not sure if I know anyone who hasn't fallen 5.11 reasonably regularly there, including people that onsight 5.13.

He did report it to the Sherriff. A shoulder bag with books, keys, etc, was all that was left behind and all that was taken. I didn't see any suspicious vehicles, but I saw a mid-twenties man and women, slightly over-weight, that wouldn't meet my eye or respond when I passed them in the parking lot. The dude was blondish, wearing a baseball cap, and dressed in a red/black basketball jersey and black shorts. The woman was wearing black pants, shirt, and baseball hat, and had blond frizzy hair. I have no evidence that they're the ones that did the dirty deed, but they were the only characters I saw hanging around that obviously weren't there to boat or climb. This was mostly meant as a public service announcement to remind people not to leave shit in their cars this time of year. It's the easiest solution, by far.

Just a little heads up, a friend's car got broken into and cleaned out this weekend at the LTW parking lot. There were a ton of people there for the work party, and definitely a few non-climber shady characters. It's probably a good idea to leave your car empty, and your doors unlocked for a while.

I grew up there and go back pretty regularly and have not been able to find any. South Beach (American Camp) is a beautiful beach, and there's a nice short loop over Mt. Finlayson down to the light-house and back. English Camp and Mt. Young is a nice loop. Sunset from lime-kiln point is pretty incredible. Biking and kayaking around the island are the nicest way to spend your time there. I'm curious about bouldering you've found on other islands. Besides Watmough bay, which is pretty limited, I haven't really found any.

Rock looks good up there, I still need to check it out!

How old is the rope?

green alien, yellow alien, #6 bd nut

Stepping left off of the other 10 (avenging the goddess kring?) is also really fun, and there's a pretty cool 11+/12- bolted pitch at the top, with really cool granite pockety features.

Has anybody put any signage up? Signs on the approach work best for people who aren't obsessed with the interwebs.

Awesome! Almost makes me want to learn how to Kayak.

Fun to watch! I'm surprised he hasn't done any of the local 14s first, at Si, or Eqx. It seems like they'd be easier to project.

You'll be fine.

Only a couple of days to go if you want to get a cheaper than retail super bright rechargeable headlamp.

Maybe not? 1:17 nearly stopped my heart.

I'd want to be fairly confident that I could catch and rescue my partner if we were climbing as a roped team. Finding a 3rd experienced partner that could drill them in the basic skills required would be a good idea. I agree with Pete_H that someone with decent common sense should be able to head up there as long as they're willing to turn around if they feel uncomfortable. It sounds like he's going through a quarter life, "I'm going to have a baby" crisis. Just make sure his life insurance policy is large, covers mountaineering accidents, and let him get it out of his system.

I don't get it, how are they used? Just like a sling, but clipped together with a biner and worn over your shoulder? I don't see the advantage over a standard extendable trad draw worn on your harness. But, I only really climb rock.

Seems more like sharing the psych than spray.

How could you get rid of your Kaukulators? Have you stopped climbing at Index? I thought they were the secret weapon.

I think I've seen you espousing the virtues of fossil rock on here before. When I look at it on mp.com it looks pretty limited. Are there more quality routes there than are shown?

Depending on how hard it's raining, the belayer may or may not be getting wet. Chronic is generally climbable with some level of suffering all year round.

Wow - David and I had fallen out of touch over the last couple of years although we generally ran into each other and climbed for a couple of days in Squamish every summer. He was a complicated individual, always seeming much younger than his 37 years, but full of life and excitement. You always had a sense that he was battling some demons, but I never thought they'd get the better of him. Several of my most memorable experiences involve trips with David. Here are a couple highlights: When I was in Thailand in 2001, I met David on Tonsai. He set up a tent next to me and my girlfriends. He was just learning to climb and was super excited, bold and fearless. He was 5 years older than me, but we all thought he was 18 or 19 until he told us. He loved the full moon parties, and would often party all night and then climb in the tropical sun all day the next day. A huge hand sized spider decided to hide out in my climbing bag one day. Instead of letting it go in the wild, I decided that David's tent would be a safer place. For two weeks, as he read by his headlamp, you could see the huge shadow of the spider hanging from the wall of the tent above his head. When he finally noticed it, listening to the shrieks and watching the spider shadow and human shadow scurry back and forth in the tent terrified of each other was entertaining, to say the least. He somehow managed to catch a dragon lizard and repaid the favor though. When I woke up and saw that thing in front of my face, my brain stem said, "COBRA!" and I nearly had a heart attack. That summer, when we were both back in the US, after a year in Asia he called me up and asked if I wanted to help him sail his boat up to Squamish from Seattle. It sounded like a good time. The story's a little too involved to get into here, but suffice to say, we barely survived. After recovering from our near death experience, we decided to climb Angel's Crest. We left the boat at noon. He didn't remember his headlamp. We got back to the boat at 4 am. RIP Dave, we had some great times.

Bump, only a couple hundred bucks to go.

Awesome!