pdk

Nipigon is hard to get to, but clinics are free.... http://www.nipigonicefest.com/

Thanks for the I-rock photo and recent update. Much appreciated

Got any photos of the north side of I rock? Much appreciated....

Personally, I hate all the new tools. I hate that every couple of years they improve things to the point that I feel obligated to shell out $600+ on a shiny new set of tools - cause really, you're going to climb that route on those old things? I guess you could...... I remember when the first generation of carbon fiber cobras came out. Everything instantly felt 1/2 grade easier. It felt like cheating. Now I'd posit that everything would feel a full grade easier compared to the "good old days" (which were NOT that long ago). Eventually the tools will catch up with my lack of technique and fitness to the point I will never have to back off another ice or mixed climb for fear it's beyond my abilities. Great analysis Dane, even if it makes me want to puke at the thought of buying another set of ice tools to sit in my closet and get used irregularly.

I'd toss the Mountain Hardwear +45 Phantom into the mix. Had it for a year, used it a lot. I'd recommend it. Weighs 17 ozs, about the same as the rest. Got it on sale, so it was the obvious choice over the others mentioned.

What kind of quality control or testing do you plan on doing, if any?

I like it. I found it was about the same price to buy all the parts to make my own as it was to get the BD one, so I went with the slick, pre-made option.

Why limit yourself to the fusions or nomics? The BD Cobras are fantastic for everything but pure m-climbing. and they can easily be outfitted with a full size hammer (that's how I roll). This eliminates the need to carry a third tool altogether....

Got any photos of the Eliot headwall? Conditions looked good - i expected slush w/ the high temps up there thanks for posting pics

Dusty and no shade - I'd attribute those to the fact that it's in the desert. Not much they could do about those two. They do now have running water, which is a nice change from the old military tank of hot, foul water they used to have. $10/night is middle of the road for camping prices. Showers would be great.

Sprint service seems to work nowhere. I had no service at all on the eliot (hood)- buddy w/ At&t had full bars.

So what are the beefs with the RR campground? Other than the nazi-camground host - GIVE ME THE MONEY! - I've never had any problems with it.

was the whole upper mountain covered in a sheet of ice? Looks like it from the pics. If so, that's going to make for some interesting avi conditions at some point. nice work - you boys hit the good weather window.

Lots of the Canucks in the early 2000's in central Ontario (Thunder Bay area - check it out, some of the best ice and mixed climbing there is) were climbing with TWO full size adzes. We used to give them a lot of shit for that. But it did help with snow removal on lower-angled ice climbs. I have the new Cobras and after using one tool with the full size hammer and one w/ the micro hammer, decided I prefer the full size hammer better. More natural, efficient swing for me - but I'm a basher, so I like the added head-weight. Try them both, see what you like. And yes, the micro hammer sucks for pins, but it works.

So are you using a dremel, or something else to remove material when reshaping picks, or just hand files of one sort or another? I've used a dremel with good luck sharpening the teeth of screws, but its tricky to make sure not to mess with the temper. I've seen angle grinders used on picks to make major alterations, but I personally don't subscribe. You do great work; if I wasn't a stickler about doing it myself, I'd be sending it your way.

Dane, What tools are you using? Curious, since you cut the teeth back quite a ways on the picks - that looks more complicated than simply using a straight or chainsaw file. thanks

i have the same problem with mine. And those little clips along the inside of the tent body don't work worth a damn to keep the poles in place. It does help if the thing is staked out well, but that isn't always an option.

if synthetic, boil water, fill a water bottle and roll up your bag with the bottle in the middle. I've dried out soaking wet bags/jackets this way.

Does anyone know "tymebldr"? No offense, but your posts seem suspect. "clips"? Are you even a climber? the court "made" you hire counsel? Courts don't "make" people hire attorneys. You are free to represent yourself. What was the charge? Who was your attorney? Did you plead guilty? To what? If not, was there a trial? Who else was ticketed, charged with you? You weren't climbing alone when you were ticketed at the time I assume? Who was your judge? I smell a rat.

Perhaps your buddy could have picked his muffler off the road when it fell off instead of leaving it in the middle of the road for someone else to clean up after him. dumbass. The road is in good condition. There are a lot of dips in the upper part of the road put in by the road crews to divert water. I would advise against passenger cars - you need decent clearance to get over some of them.

I think from here on out all trip report titles should end with "Biatch!"

Hey John - I thought you were gonna post some condition reports and photos? We know you've been out there....but where are you now?

One of the best ice climbers in the world got started while living in Chicago - so its possible to get into it from there. Already mentioned are Governor Dodge and Starved Rock. There is also some old privately owned quarry in WI somewhere, but the owner charges an outrageous fee to use it. But basically you need to get up to Lake Superior (UP of MIchigan and North Shore) and Minnesota to find anything consistent. Check out climbingcentral.com for local conditions and events, like the Sandstone ice fest, Michigan Ice fest and Nipigon Ice fest. I think there might be another fest on the northeast shore of Superior as well. The best climbing is along the north shore of lake superior around thunder bay and nipigon (canada) - which is a haul for you, but people do it regularly. You just need to get on with some of them. You might have better luck finding climbers out of madison. good luck. donnie (formerly of Minnesota...)

John, I don't know my #s for your initial questions, but a couple things come to mind reading the other posts. I don't think pull ups or body weight or whatever really apply across the board for ice climbing ability. I know big guys, like close to Marcus' height but bigger all around, who climb WI6, M8 trad. I also know guys who climb as hard or harder who probably couldn't put more than three pullups together, whether its because they are overweight or scrawny as hell. I just don't see ice climbing as fitting any one particular stereotype or body type. In that sense it differs somewhat from rock climbing. I agree that for most of us, being lighter, proportionately stronger and fitter makes us better climbers (myself included), but i've seen enough people who defy this "logic" that I don't buy it beyond a certain point. I think experience, improved technique, the right mental attitude and natural ability will take certain people further than being strong or losing 5 extra pounds ever will. I have none of those natural attributes, so my only hope for getting better is losing weight and getting stronger and fitter - none of which are likely to happen any time soon given my current work situation. I will agree though, if you're just as strong 10 lbs lighter, it can't possibly hurt your climbing. But for as strong as you are, unless you've put on a ton of weight since I last saw you, I don't see your weight affecting in any significant way your ice climbing level this winter. If it does, its probably all in your head. my 2 cents. Donnie

What's the approx mileage for the whole thing?