still_climbin

Great TR! Sounds like you bearly had a good time. Any pics?

Thanks for the PM's. I guess its leavenworth!

Improbable Traverse!

Have Sunday available and my partner just sprained his knee. Anyone interested in L'worth or maybe Frenchman?

Nice climb! How much time did the whole thing take? What kind of rock is it?

Thanks for the report. Did ya get any of that good ole D'ton moonshine lickah while you was there?

Climbing as it should be done. Forget the guide book!

Climb: SEWS-Southwest Buttress Date of Climb: 9/23/2006 Trip Report: George and I drove to Washington Pass Friday night in hopes of hitting a weather window without rain or snow. After a couple beers at the Winthrop Brew Pub we sacked out with hopes under the stars. By morning it had clouded again so we took our time before leaving the trail head and meandered up the trail hoping for the clouds to disolve and let the sun warm the rock. We started climbing about 10:00 am. Although the rock was basically dry the lichens were damp and with the air temperature around 40 degrees our shoes didn't stick well... But, we started anyway. I led the crux 5.8 offwidth and found it easy and secure. The next pitch was the same and as the temperature began to slowly warm, the rock felt better to the hands. The "nervous 5.6" friction pitch was something else. Any sand on the ledges was wet and stuck to the shoes. That coupled with the cold sole rubber and damp lichens brought "nervous" to new heights for me. I'll have to say I had more adreneline on the crux friction move (about 15 feet out from my questionable Alien placement) than I've had in a while...but it worked. As if the weather was just waiting for that thilling moment, the couds parted, the sun began to warm the rock and the rest of the day was stellar. The remaining pitches, the "Bear Hug", etc. were easy and enjoyable. All in all we had a very good climb. The route is interesting every pitch and the rock and scenery are classic. Sorry to say that the climb, my eighth technical summit of the year, is likely my last for the season since my consulting business has taken off. This climb will give me lots to dream about 'til next year. Pics: The SW Buttress an a cold morning The "nervous" part of the "nervous 5.6" Yet another Bear Hug photo The summit pitch The Old Man of the Summit. Gear: A #4 C4 Cam was nice to have several places. Loved the maiden voyage of my new Mammut 8.9mm single rope.

Beautiful effort. I applaud the polished, first class job that was done on the Journal. Thanks.

Nicely done and great photos. I've looked at that wall for years and its good to see someone with you'e sense of adventure do it.

I've used one all season and I think they're great. Absolutely no issues with anchoring.

Great TR and photos. I agree on the car to car crap....The purpose of the climb is to enjoy! As soon as I can find a partner willing to do the 5.9 stuff I doing this one.

I bought that Speed pack that's being closed out and have used it on seven peaks this summer. I love it. It makes me go light since the space is a little lean but it rides well and doesn't get in the way on the rock. I'm not sure it would be enough if you had much of a bivy in mind.

When I was there in June I saw three fixed cams within a few inches of each other in the same crack. It was on a mid-face direct line on the last pitch.

Sounds fun!

Nice report. How does West Face Concord stack up to other Lib-SEWS climbs for fun and aesthetics?

Everyone's getting paranoid. Never seen the overhead bins so empty on a full flight as I did Monday.

Very nice climb and report. congratulations.

That's a pretty big "what if." We can always re-engineer the hardware, but perfect, 100% cam placement in natural rock doesn't exist even for perfect hardware. Aliens by the current design have worked time and again and I doubt that the axil design has suddenly become "bad."

In humidity and boredom. I'ts Saturday and I'm stuck working in Aiken, South Carolina on a consulting contract until the 7th of Sept. This time last Saturday I was sweating as I chugged up the talus to the Improbable Traverse under pure blue skies surrounded by wonderful views. Today I'm stewing in sweat just sitting in the hotel writing. And, there's no blue in the sky even though the sun's out and I haven't seen the horizon for days. I don't even know if I'm facing north or south. Think I'll have a mint julep to see if that calms the apline withdrawal jitters.

Hey, Mneagle, ya got trees growing sideways outa the mountain.

The "perfect placement" moniker works just about as well in mother nature as the calculation that begins "first, assume a cow to be a perfect sphere." The whole thing is risk management and probabilities. Yes, we can follow the leader never falls philosophy but then'l be the time a well used crystal crumbles under the shoe of the leader at the crux. I've never assigned 100% to any placement and I began climbing in the chrome-moly piton days. I use Aliens and this news does not disturb me. An Alien parting at the braze does.

Sounds like a great time. Nice pics.

I can relate to the fall. I had a similar fall in April 2004. While sking steep backcounrty at Stevens Pass I encountered hard rough ice and during a turn lost a ski due to the stress the roughness imposed on the binding. The ice was bout 45 degrees and I immidiately lost the other ski and flew ass over tea kettle down 600 ft of open steep icy slope, then another 400 ft off cliffs and through thick forest. As I flew off the frist cliff into the trees I expected to die. I hit many trees and finally hit one hard enough to allow me to grab a tree and stop myself. Since nobody saw me fall I had to self rescue with six broken ribs, broken sternum, sprained knees and shoulders and lots of missing skin. In the end I think wearing a helmet was the only reason I didn't die. Glad you made it through too.