jordansahls

I was reading Mark Twight's book, "Extreme Alpinism", and I ran into a part where he started to talk about 'alpine aiding'. I don't realy know what that means. Is seemed to have to do with less attachments, or degrees of freedom, or something like that? Is it just aiding on the fly, or what? Basically I don't know anything about aiding. I stick mostly to alpinism (the non-aiding kind), trad, ect. Someone educate me!

I can imagine the situation for her kids. Child #1 - Hey, did you know that mom wrote a book? Child #2 - No, I wonder what its about? Child #1 - Me too, lets check it out. Those children don't have a popsicals chance in hell.

If you think that you can get into climbing without forking over some mulla, you are in for a painful surprise. It takes time and money to acquire all the gear necessary. Many of the famous rock climbers and alpanists are poor, or started out poor. Read up on Ed Viestures, before he made it big with his endeavor 8000 adventure, he spent most of his time living in a dank basement working construction, scraping to get by. Its only the rich philanthropists that can afford to dish out 50 grand for an Everest bid, and most of those people aren't climbers. Save up some money, and start small. Work your way into, and you will make the connections necessary to chase your dreams, hopefully without the sexual favors 8D .

I think your jumping the gun a little on this one. By "motivated" partner do you mean someone who has all the goals that you have? First thing you should do is just learn the ropes. You can worry about a suitable partner when you have acquired the skills necessary for the climbs you want to do. You first priority should be to get the training. Don't expect the fairy climbing mother to magic you away on some climbing adventure. It's all up to you if you really want to get out there and do it.

The Outdoor Center at Western is taking a group up to Lillooet during the same time. No idea how large of a group it is.

Lots of water, and Emergen C, that shit rocks!

Mountain booze is a good thing. Nothing compares to sitting in base camp sipping on a flask of Wild Turkey or Red Breast.

This is my tick list for this year, we will see how many get climbed. Realistically I will be lucky to climb a quarter of these routes, but it’s good to have goals, right? Baker -N ridge -Coleman headwall -park glacier/headwall Shuksan -N face -Price glacier Redoubt, NE face Buckner, N face Eldorado -NW coulior -W arete Liberty bell group -anything and everything in the moderate range Rainier -Fuhrur finger -Liberty Ridge Goode, NE ridge

Thanks for all the kind words. Great route, highly recommended.

Yeah, there is a short WI3 up to a little step. Once on the step you have 2 options. 1.) Climb directly up the ice face, probably 15 meters of WI4, or.. 2.) Take the gully to your right, WI/AI 2+ We opted to take the gully on the right because it offered some protection from the spin drift that was hammering us on the direct line.

amazing weather, couldn't have asked for better. It was very very cold though. I ended up getting a little bit of frost nip on my hands and feet.

Thanks for the info Kurt, did you guys go all the way? The Roman wall was in shitty skiing condition, so we figured everyone went to the saddle then skied down.

Trip: Mount Baker - Roman Nose Variation Date: 12/8/2007 Trip Report: The original climb was supposed to be the North Ridge, but getting over to the route looked like a pain in the ass, so Stanislov and myself(Jordan) decided to climb the Roman Nose, or a variation of. time: car to car in 25 hours note: Does anyone have information on the history of this route? All I know is that it doesnt seem to get climbed all that much. the Route Me getting closer to the first ice pitch (sort of). Stani getting pummeled by spindrift on the short WI3 pitch Climbing up the second gully (what the hell is that blotchey thing? Oh wait, yeah) just above the second gully, the exposure was fantastic, and stayed that way untill we reached the crest of the Roman Nose. Gear Notes: 5 ice screws 3 pickets usual glacier gear warm clothes Approach Notes: We were able to drive all the way to the trailhead. Standard coleman approach.

...and breakfast.

Thanks for the input. I headed out late Friday with a friend in the hopes that we could get the Cosley/Houston route on Colfax, but conditions turned us back. Anyway, I will definitely give the Twins a go when weather permits, thanks again. cheers, Jordan

I was planning on climbing Bakers North Ridge this weekend, but the weather forecast is a little foreboding, that and avalanche danger seems to be really high above 7k. Anyway, I need some suggestions for easily accessed technical climbs in the Whatcom county area. So fire at will, or not.

Wow, I attempted Maude last Saturday and Sunday and the road was still opened. There probably isn't enough snow to really warrant a closure yet, but thats the Forrest Service for you. Nice pics by the way, looks sweet.

Ground bees are a bitch this time of year. Two years ago when a friend and I were trying to climb Buck via king lake, we stirred a ground nest. Needless to say he was stung around 10 times, I received none. We ended up leaving and waiting to see what happened because my friend was diagnosed as being allergic to bee stings, but that was 13 years ago. Lucky us he didn’t swell up and die. Fuck ground bees! I was told they get defensive because they are protecting their honey stash from other hives. I don’t know how much truth is in this, but it makes sense to me, not that I know anything about bees.

Yeah, the local climbing sucks unless you have a fetish for crumbly sandstone and sketch bolts with lots of glue on them. The nearest decent climbing would be mount Erie, which is about 45 - 60 minutes from B-ham. As for the WWU rock wall and the YMCA rock wall, there nothing special. Basically anything you can find in Seattle is going to be as good, if not much better than the climbing gyms B-ham has to offer, most likely the later.

I don’t know much about the sizing; will the 330 - 360 mm sole length fit someone who wears size 11 shoes?

I have a pair of explorer bindngs (size XL) I can let go for $175. They have been used twice. I switched to Dynafit a few years back and they have been sitting around collecting dust. What size boot do the XL fit?

Me too.

I can get a new pair for $140, but I guess that’s nothing special. I would love to get a set of the Fritschi explorer bindings, but I cant find a used set anywhere. It looks like new is the only real option at the present time.

Anyone used these binding before? I can get a deal on them and would appreciate any input. Good, Bad, weak, what?