glm

How about Baker, Shuksan, or Glacier Peak? I've done at least one route on each but could go back if by a different route. I'm out of commission right now with an injured hand but hope to get up somewhere by the end of August or in September. I gather you're from the Portland area so that could be a longer drive - there's also Rainier and/or Tahoma, which is as tall as Hood but seldom climbed. PM me if you're interested several weeks out. Glen

The north side routes are all winter routes. However, as was stated above, the Eliot Glacier should have some ice climbing opportunities, assuming the usual cautions. There's a broken section in the middle of the glacier that would be fun to play on. It's unbelieveable in winter under good conditions - ice chutes all around the glacier, in addition to the sublime N face routes. Of course, watching massive ice and rock fall from a reasonable distance is also fun....

First, my condolences to the family and friends of the woman who fell, and to those who witnessed the accident. I'm sure she didn't plan to end her day and life that way and thought, at the time, that she had all the bases covered. It is important to both recognize the tragedy of someone dying, whether doing something they love or just sitting in traffic; it is also good to try to gain some insight from the accident to prevent this from happening to you (or me). I like rappelling; it's fun. That said, I check everything several times always. It's too easy to make a mistake and nobody is immune, newbie or master. I always think, just as I start to weight the rope, "did I get it right?", then I check my harness, locker, and rappel device one more time. If I bite it somewhere, I hope people pick apart what I did that got me killed and avoid making the same mistake themselves, hopefully without trashing me too mercilessly in hte process.

You could give him the benefit of the doubt that he honestly didn't see the rope until he was on it - a rope lying on the ground isn't visible from above, and climbers DO travel unroped on the Easton a fair amount - it's pretty safe for a glacier. However ... he should have stopped and apologized and I think a line of climbers is a pretty good indication that there could be a rope between them, so I'm not too convinced of that argument either. I was on the Easton some years back ('98, the BIG SNOW year), and there were a whole bunch of snowmobiles on the glacier and my big worry was that one of them was going to hook us and take us for a ride. The point is, everyone should look out for others on the mountain, whether it's running into ropes, not dropping rocks, or whatever and this guy was, at the very least, rude for not stopping.

Glad to hear it wasn't worse and that he will be ok. I hope he has insurance! Was he wearing his helmet when he fell? That spot is a bit sketchy if wet or busy, but I would agree that it is easily protectable if someone wants to without a fixed rope/cable/ladder.

I could be interested. I've been on Rainier a couple times and have soloed Glacier and Shucksan (sitkum and sulphide, respectively). I agree that the guide services are pricey and not needed for most. I would suggest a pre-trip trip to get acquainted with equipment, self arrest, etc. and to plan for a second night on the mountain if possible to allow for some flexibility. PM me if you're interested. Glen

Leavenworth, about 2 hours east of Seattle. Much more likely to be dry on Memorial Day weekend and a wider variety of difficulties. Plenty of camping and some hotels in town. Index is generally harder stuff, 5.11 and up; Leavenworth has a bit of everything, plus a bunch of sport if you want to do any of that. Plus good food & beer at Uli's in town.

That photo needs to be on a calendar somewhere!

Any new news on Alpental conditions since the latest round of snow?

I've had the same problem a couple times over the years. The numbness goes away after a couple weeks/months and doesn't come back until you re-aggravate it. It does sound like a pinched nerve. I would suggest the better insoles, as suggested above, to keep your feet from smashing forward on kicking/downhills, and would suggest wearing the boots to work and around the house to break them in the rest of the way without the added weight of a backpack or the impact from downhill travel - that should let the liners get used to your foot shape.

Well, now you know a whole lot more about travelling fast on trails than most people ever want to. I read about David Horton's speed hike/run last summer and Krissy and Scott's and Scott's support here in Washington. I spoke with Scott McCoubrey a couple days later and he was pretty pumped about David's accomplishment and said he had a good time pacing David. Anyway, if you did the ~74 miles in 48 or so hours, with a backpack, you should still be aware that you are in pretty good shape and in far better shape that 99+% of Americans! I've thought about doing this section of the PCT (because it is convenient to get to both ends) or the Wonderland because the distance is somewhat reasonable to mostly run and I don't take either trip lightly. It doesn't matter whether you set the record or not. There's always someone faster out there, or will be, once they hear about what you did. I think it matters more that you did something most people can't/won't do, did it in good style, got to see some exceptional scenery, and you have a time you can improve on when you do it again next year. It's all just fun stuff to do to get out from behind your desk and away from the tv.

Stupid, but appreciated - I hiked up to Camp Muir on a warm summer afternoon with over 40 pounds of water in my backpack in the form of a bunch of gallon jugs and 2 liter pop bottles, along with my harness, ice ax, and a bunch of other stuff I knew I wouldn't need. The appreciated part came in when I gave all the extra water away at Muir so I wouldn't hammer my joints on the way back down. Apparantly, people like it if you haul their water up to Muir for them.

my name is lacy and i live in cali...fo sho! i am getting married in a month and a half and my goal is to look like this again, but im 20 lbs away...lol...i love my life and im happy...of course! Yes, that would be my goal.

"I'm also free every day!" - How do you manage that? I'd be up for Shuksan or Hood but I have to work....

It is patriotic to criticize your government - in fact, Critical thinking is not a right, it is a responsibility! However, if you are going to criticize, it should be constructive. If I didn't care about this place, I would just move and stop worrying about it. This is a good place to live, but it can always be better. Just remember what Machiavelli said so many years ago: "The government the people get, they deserve." Note that Machiavelli also said "The prince governs with the consent of the governed." Somebody gave these guys this power and it can (and should)_ be taken away from them.

My vote is for Winthrop, from a town POV, Leavenworth for it's proximity to great climbing and skiing. Either would be great - probably whichever will allow you to get work if you need to....

How they run elections in so many places ... a tried and true method.

It'll go.

that's umount, not unmount, a common error

Although both are more than 50 miles from Portland, I can attest to the quality of both Tieton and Smith, and both are not *that* far away that you couldn't get there for a long day trip. There is also a route or two at Rooster Rock, just east of Troutdale, about 20 miles +- from Portland....

never been there but it sure sounds good. What is that a picture of?

Looking to get out this weekend before starting my new job Monday. Trip to Smith fell through but I'd be up for that is someone's interested. Or open to anything else, alpine, multipitch, or .... Solid alpine, moderate rock skills. PM or email me at glenma@mangiantini.com Glen

I'm free next week before starting my new job on 10/31 and would be interested in alpine, rock on the eastside, or whatever. Maybe a trip to the enchantments, now that permits are no longer required.... Can lead low 5th, to about 5.6/5.7, trad, follow a bit harder, comfortable on ice & glacier, have gear and car. Glen

Did Forbidden WR last weekend. We spent several *interesting* hours in the now snow free gully! You might want to read up on the alternate approach to the ridge that I saw somewhere if you decide on Forbidden. The ridge, weather, and views were all superb, however!

Excellent job and great description. You really capture the grandeur of the Cascadian. Are there any scree surfing action shots to share?