fheimerd

10,800 or so. Can't remember exactly. Seems like the slope ends and some craggy rock begins. That's where I stopped.

Trip: Mt. Hood - Wy East Date: 5/1/2008 Trip Report: I've been watching storm cycles pass through oregon and waiting for the perfect day to go ski Wy East. Couple of days of cold snow and clearing on Thursday was the forecast and this time I wasn't letting my chance get away from me. I left portland at 5:00 and was skinning by 7:00. I wanted to get up there earlier because I knew it was going to be warming up but getting up before 5:00 is just damn hard. The 1 ft+ of snow that they got on the east side of the mountain was wind blown with minimal ski penetration but pole penetration went to about 1 ft in the deep spots. As I skinned up I kept looking at the face trying to assess snow conditions and choose a safe way to the top. With the warming and snow consolidation I was concerned about avalanch danger. The way the snow was compacted I figured if it was going to go it would be big. Finally at the base of the face the snow changed. No more wind pack, just nice soft powder. I couldn't believe my good fortune. The whole face was sitting there ready to be had. I decided to go around into the cliffy area climbers right to avoid exposing myself to avalanch hazards. I packed up the skis and took out the ice axe thinking boot packing might be better for the steep slope and gullies above me. It started out easy enough with nice soft styrofoam snow that was perfecrt for boot packing. Then about halfway up one of the gullies the styrofoam turned to ice covered by an inch of powder. At this point I began to curse at myself for leaving the crampoons at home. Progress slowed and my legs began to ache from the strain of standing on my toes and chipping at the ice to make footholds. An hour and 300 vf later I was relived to top the gullies and finished the ascent by skinning up the mellow slopes above the face. Things ere definately warming up but everything had been so solid up to that point I wasn't so concerned anymore after my previous brush with fear in the gullies. Big G turns with my Verdicts gave me that flying sensation as I cruised down the face. I love that run. I finished off the day by cruising down funky wind affected snow in Upper Heather Canyon. Recent snow doesn't seem to have made it to far east. All in all an excellent day dishing up everything one could ask for in a ski trip.

thanks for the concern, we'll definately be careful. You just never know how things are up high. Last time I blew off a trip because I thought avi concern would be an issue I heard back that on the particular day eveything was icy. I'll throw up areport if I get a chance.

Meadows is closed and the clouds are forecasted to break on thursday. I would like to descend the wy'east face and then ski into into heather canyon via the superbowl.

I was out at ozone yesterday as well. Had an interesting experience. Seems like freeze thaw cycle this winter has increased the amount of loose rock out there. My buddy was climbing an often climbed route while I was belaying and chatting with a few folks. He grabbed one of those big holds and the whole thing came off. Size of a "baby walrus" according to a witness. It fell fifty feet straight down and landed in the middle of a group of four people narrowly missing on fellow by a few inches. It would have killed him or for that matter any of us. Should we possibly have a trundling party out there soon before somebody does get hurt.

are you also a skier. The thought of climbing cascade volcanoes without skis makes me slightly squeamish.

here's a nice description http://www.proguiding.com/trip/view/spearhead-traverse-1 lots of other stuff on the internet as well basically it's a u shaped traverse going into the high country beyond whistler and blackcomb approach is via lifts send me a pm with your # if your interested in going

2 days, midweek, first week of april. Whenever the weather looks best. I'm going regardless but a competent partner is always a plus.

Thanks for the info I'm thinking of going next week if the weather is decent. Definately don't want to be up there in a whiteout.

thanks for the info and let me clarify the avalanche question it is more a question about the type of terrain. Are there any sections of the tour where you have to expose yourself to severe terrain that if the avalanche hazard were high would almost definately go or does the standard route keep you in pretty safe terrain away from major hazards.

some questions regarding the spearhead traverse how would you rate the avalanche hazards? Serious, moderate, pretty safe this time of year are there crevasse issues and if so can they be easily avoided? where could I find more information on this traverse?

I was thinking of heading down there during the week of 4/1. Send me a pm if you want to set something definate up for a few days of climbing. Comfortable 5.9-5.10 trad and sport. Really want to do some of the long multipitch excursions.

good point...we definately need to be responsible about use so that access does not become an issue. Carpooling is better for the environment anyway. Better yet ride your bike.

I agree it's too overdeveloped for a secret crag...but is it really a secret if everyone knows about it? maybe we need to change the way we think abuot it.

will, way to help out a local crag. Let me know if you need somebody to help out. Frank

Public school teachers unite! I'm down for friday afternoon but I'm not free from the Hellions till 3:00 so... Also thinking of Teiton River this weekend for a day. I like those cracks out there.

my favorite place to stay in the north cascades is the snow. It's cheap, quiet and long nights in a freezing tent are a true test of a relationship.

Was down at the gym yesterday and saw the setup in action. I was especially impressed by the huge sheet suspended above the bouldering entrance that will be used for the slideshow. Looks to be a good time. I'm packing an extra liver...just in case.

So the climbs named white punks on dope. Was the FA by one of the WPD crew? Just wondering. Looks really nice.

it's not a question of tele, snowboard or AT. Do all mother fuckin three. In fresh pow in the backcountry tele is the way to go. If your skiing big lines and want to surf take out the board. If you want to go somewhere strap on the AT's. Each is good in certain areas but lacks in other. I like the variety. Tele skiing definately made me a better alpine skier and vice versa.

It's a fun climb when you know what to expect and now that you know I'm sure you'll cruise it next time.

I might be into it. We climbed out at the ozone before the summer and I just got back from the Alps. PM if you still need a partner. Probably not all day but a few routes would be fun.

I'm interested in going to ski the haute route. i spent some time in switzerland and france this summer climbing and would love to go back in spring. Have you been in the area/ Send me a pm.

Just was down there last week and did that climb. Lots of fun and really easy for a 5.9 compared to some stuff in the valley. We climbed it with only 2 hours of sleep after arriving from p-town at 5 in the morning. Now I'm back and it's raining. California kicks ass in June.

thinking of heading out from 9-5(a day at the office) anybody else able to break the chains from the money making machine for a day.