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I could help on the 2nd-3rd, 9th-10th and 16th-17th but have trips planned for the last part of the month. Also willing to pitch in some change for the materials and an extra truck for hauling.

If you're looking for an answer, read this post or do a Google. You'll see that rappel accidents have killed a fair number of experienced climbers over the years. Not sure where your immunity comes from but I choose to believe if it can happen to one person, it can happen to another and therefore isn't something to be tossed aside as trivial like you've been doing (here and elsewhere). That's "the big deal" Doesn't mean you're an idiot if you don't use one each and every time but if you're totally dismissive of EVER using them because you just don't get "what the deal is" then you are an idiot.

I carry 15 feet of 9/16 tubular and a few rap rings. I would trust a single bolt only if I had to.

I know you've been waiting, which is why we headed over there before the grand opening Can't say specifically about that route but there was a large patch of of snow to the east of our route that was still on the wall. I contacted the N. Cascade guides for current beta and they provided pretty accurate info on conditions.

Actually, I don't believe I said anything along the lines of "from what I've read" but, there was some constructive advice given regarding the use of single knot per strand along with accompanying reasons. Those posts were useful.

Do you tie individual nots in each end? I just tie both ends into a single knot. Kinda hard to pull the rope unless you untie it that way.

Hmm. Shouldn't the percentage on the poll add up to 100?

Even above the device may not keep you from rapping off the ends unless you're very quick to release the knot. I'm also not real sure about the arguement for avoiding a knot because it can get caught in a crack. While it's possible, the rare times that I've had my rope catch on something on rappel, I just cleaned it on the way down. Doesn't seem like a strong enough reason on its own. I usually tie a knot if I can't see the ends or they're hanging out over the wall.

I could hook up occassionally for some trad. I'm only leading easily protected moderates right now though. Still, if you have some more difficult stuff you're interested in, I can belay and follow. Couldn't go on a regular schedule cause already doing too many days per week (according to my spousal unit). I'm off at 3 daily.

I don't think "rock climbing" and mountaineering are necessarily exclusive of each other. Mountaineering can involve climbing rock, snow, ice.. Maybe the distinction you're looking for is between Alpine Rock and cragging?

I'd like to help with that project. The secondary face and over by Don Q are getting really bad too. Were you planning on a big project or sticking to the main wall? Did you have a date in mind?

Congrats! Some nice shots selected.

Here's a pic from the summit of Snowshoe Peak. The lake below Ibex is about a 6 miles hike in from the TH. I suspect the approach to the climb would be mainly off-trail from the far side of that ridge though. According to the topo, there is an old road that comes partway up from that side and the slope looks like it would be gentler. I suppose one could gain the ridge from this side but looks like it might be kinda crappy following it to the summit? I haven't climbed it so I'll be curious what the route entails and where the best approach is too.

I had a crotch rocket when I was younger. I'm lucky to be older. Speed is like a drug and I've been clean for 20 years now Funny - that's how long I've been married for too. Wonder if there's a corrolation!? Cool videos though.

Enjoyed the read. Sounds like miserable fun.

The dome does look fairly low angle when viewed from further up the trail. There's a few lines on it that look worth hiking up to though - preferably before all the snow is gone from that brushy looking approach. I did notice some nice rock up that valley towards the lake that seemed worth checking out too. How was the rock quality where you were working?

Ugh. It's on my list - bad timing. Take pics and let me know how it goes though.

Seems like an extreme way to avoid the so-so starting pitches but...

It's a mile or so away from (and visible from) the Two Mouth Lake TH. Anyone know if it has a name? Any developed routes? Looks kinda yummy.

So which moderate route would you give that title to? Where is the best moderate splitter in the state?

Can you do single rope raps on climbers left without interfering with other teams climbing the route? I'm guessing not, since people do the scramble descent but thought I'd ask.

These are what got me over that 5.4 barrier.

Too funny. That wasn't Mar 2006 was it?

We didn't see any goats, just walls

Driving towards the Mazama crag, the TH is about 3 miles from the Mazama store on the right side. Good fun. Some moving of the belays but mostly just pretty good rock with great views.