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    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   11/10/22

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roboboy

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Everything posted by roboboy

  1. Beware this buyer/seller

    this old thread may offer some further insight into the aliases of ARC: ARC = divot
  2. well, at least it was "small hurt" this time. hope you recover soon.
  3. What to do with old vinyl LPs?

    you could do completed auction searches on ebay to see if anything has any particular collectible value. if it doesn't or is in poor condition and you're tired of owning it you could make some digital transfers, then donate the original LPs to some place like a thrift store. this might reduce the size of your collection considerably. it's easy to digitize if your PC has a soundcard and a wav file recorder like musicmatch jukebox. just run a line from your stereo amp output to the soundcard, play the LP and record. then create audio cdrs from the wav files.
  4. Harvey Manning RIP

  5. Quince

    I think ones like these are normally referred to by gardeners as juvenile delin-quince.
  6. Fall Colors Picture Post

    North Cascades last weekend
  7. Jury duty

    not necessarily...birds of a feather might flock together
  8. Keep us posted on when the gate opens. I want to go back and do this fantastical climb again (old joke but new photo at least):
  9. Wadya think of the wife?

    it may shake out as a petty complaint and a complaining pet
  10. Ropeup 2006 - Oct 13-15 Eight Mile Group Campsite

    David & Amanda @ Icicle canyon - nice meeting & climbing with you guys.
  11. [TR] Tumwater Buttress- Groundhog Day 8/6/2005

    ...out of context...the original statement referred to a two bolt start in order to identify the route and no one really gave a s**t exactly how many bolts there were above that. but there definitely aren't six bolts unless someone recently chopped some (unless maybe you count the anchor chains...).
  12. [TR] Tumwater Buttress- Groundhog Day 8/6/2005

    The guide actually calls it a 6 bolt route but I recall only 2 bolts at the start when I actually climbed it. Maybe someone should also take it up with Viktor that the guide is wrong...
  13. [TR] Tumwater Buttress- Groundhog Day 8/6/2005

    Since Viktor Kramar, author of Leavenworth guide, takes credit for the FA of the two bolt variation, maybe someone should take it up with him why the proliferation of this and similar bolted routes in the area.
  14. everyone is NOT a winner

    I'm not the winner that I once was but I'm a winner once like I always was.
  15. I think that this is one of the most worthwhile beta threads. Canada has some of the best areas and some of the most unpredictable and variable conditions. And it's a fairly long drive to arrive up there and sit for a week waiting for things to dry out. For the Cascades close to home there is usually lots of beta and if it rains unexpectedly maybe all that's lost is a weekend and a few hours driving. Thanks Joe.
  16. Climb: Yosemite National Park-Two Tuolumne Alpine Classics, etc. Date of Climb: 9/18/2006 Trip Report: We reached Tuolumne Meadows after two days of driving from Seattle. James was eager to test the local ratings so went to try a route on Lembert Dome. James also wanted to see if he could climb on Tuolumne granite in mountain boots - he could. James also has desirable abilities of climbing vertical rock as fast as a chipmunk up a pine tree, getting by with minimal equipment and food on extended climbs and sleeping soundly without a tent in almost any situation. The next day we hiked to Young Lakes to tackle a bigger objective, Mt Conness, West ridge. Views of eastern Yosemite on approach: We headed for Mt Conness the next morning in clear but very windy conditions: The first 400 ft or so were very steep, stemming shallow grooves and laybacking dihedrals. There was always an incut hold for the feet or a flake for a handhold when you needed them though, keeping the grade moderate, but sustained. After that we simulclimbed about 1000 ft to the summit, mostly around class 5.0. The middle section of the route became a sensational knife edge with a 1000 ft vertical drop below the right shoulder and a few hundred below the left but pro was always good. We were back at our camp 10 hrs after leaving it but pretty tired so we decided to make do with what food we had and spend another night. Young Lake was definitely tolerable though: The next day we went to do the Tuolumne Meadows classic moderate crag climb - Great White Books on Stately Pleasure Dome (right leaning corner, right of center). The climbing WAS moderate but the route is outrageously runout with scarce pro for 4 pitches. James trusty ropegun got me up it however. Cathedral Peak may have seen 100,000 ascents by now but it is still 700 feet of beautiful white Sierra granite. The first pitch is mostly slab, the second a chimney, then 3 or 4 pitches of mostly face climbing on knobs: Time was up so we had to head home with many other desired objectives left undone but I hope to return soon. Northern Yosemite from Cathedral Peak:
  17. yes, that's Cathedral Pk & Eichorn Pinnacle on the skyline. The big dome is Fairview.
  18. Name a peak for Fred?

    how about Inspiration peak ? Beckey was involved in climbing it's first two routes and renaming it Mt Beckey would be thematically consistent with adjacent McMillan Spires and Mt Degenhardt, both named after early North Cascades explorers. Even though Fred named it, Inspiration doesn't seem like a particularly interesting name and I can think of dozens, if not hundreds, of Cascades peaks that are actually a bit more inspiring. And since it's more of a climber's peak than a regional or tourist landmark it may be less of a hard sell than something like Liberty Bell to the USGS to rename it.
  19. BRUCE SPRINGSTEEN SUCKS!

    I dunno, if George Bush wrote songs, would you listen to them ?
  20. BRUCE SPRINGSTEEN SUCKS!

    I was listening to a lot of Springsteen a few years ago. Then someone said "yeah, but the songs are so simple" - BINGO. Now I can't help but just thinking about him.
  21. Info on Boving route on Dragontail

    I was on a UW climbing club trip to Lworth with Paul Boving once and I still remember him talking about planning to climb the smooth slabs on the Dragontail face. I watched him solo angel crack in stiff mountain boots that weekend. I struggled up it on toprope with EBs. Sadly he was killed in a fall on the town wall a few years later (thin fingers I think it was). My partner on the Lworth trip was Quin Koenig ("Conehead") of Darington route name fame - it turned out to be an epic weekend of climbing for me, to say the least.
  22. This and Wayne & friends other Pickets climbs are amazing physical achievements. With the difficult-to-the-max approaches and amount of hard technical climbing I would guess there's only a handful of climbers locally who could (or would) do something like this. Probably most local climbers never climb a Pickets summit and many are turned back by the Easy ridge approach itself. Very impressive amount of determination.
  23. Dru, is there likely to still be any water sources on the south side approaches of either slesse or rexford by now ?
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