roboboy

it's too bad about the number of bolts on El Cap, sickening in fact.

To me the issue was always damage to the environment, ie bolting natural features like rock, so if bolts are removed, then new holes drilled and bolts replaced, the damage is doubled. It would be great if there was a way to regulate it better but there doesn't seem to be. So, if bolts are chopped on a popular route we probably end up with more replacement bolts, more damage. Personally, I wouldn't have thought the left side start pitch was worth placing two bolts for when you can do the right side with natural pro. On the other hand it seems that exit 32/38 routes must have somewhere around 95% bolt protection and it sure has opened up a lot climbing that wouldn't otherwise exist.

I think there are two bolts at the beginning of the left side start but none on the regular right side start. I don't recall any other bolts on the route other than rappel stations. There is a separate rappel anchor at the top of the left side start that isn't really needed as there is another easily reached a bit higher where the right side 1st pitch ends. The bolts on the left side do protect a section that is a bit runout at 5.7.

I agree that most of the junk placed on the route didn't need to be but it's there now and we still had fun. If it's removed someone will probably just replace it, then what?

It should definitely be kept alive and studied for it's scientific value and not destroyed

Pics from yesterday climbing 2nd pitch: climbing 2nd pitch (closeup): 3rd pitch: Tough guys discuss climb strategy (or make up your own caption):

Snowfield pk

and be careful with the fragile native vegetation this time, huh guys ? (joke)

Gary, please do a digital photo slide show sometime.

how about the world's longest bolted sport route ?

here's a photo of McClellan Pk, NE side, from Enchantments trail, a bit distant. I think the major tower on the left is Rocket Pk. so where's the route ?

you can set a reserve price, set a higher starting price, cancel an auction. "buy-it-now" is a good option on new and unused items that you might have a good idea on of what they are actually worth. that way you get exactly what you expect or it doesn't sell. sometimes you do well and sometimes you get screwed, with both buying and selling on ebay. it generally averages out over time with enough transactions and it works out OK.

you will use ebay again.

Be prepared for rain.

I would climb tonight if anyone wants to.

Matt, I'm not a newbie but quite capable of climbing like one. I would be glad to come along and help sometime.

I think the answer is to get out of the city. Move some place like...Index.

Syd's best, IMHO:

almost no Syd on it though

Arnold Layne had a strange hobby Collecting digital photos

well, the madcap laughed

...equals something like this ?

In the "old" days there were no climbing gyms and hardly any bolted climbs, other than Peshastin. Most climbers needed to start out trad climbing if they were going to climb at all, maybe after some toproping at somewhere like Erie. People were happy to be doing climbs like Midway, Saber and Cat Burglar starting out and got familiar with basic techniques in lower risk situations. Now with gyms and so many bolted sport routes people can safely get to 5.9-5.10 difficulty level without learning trad techniques which can get them into trouble on similarly rated multipitch trad. So there may not be an easy answer to this, gyms and bolted climbs aren't going away and people are going to get into trouble and accidents will happen. Discussion of incidents on public forums like this is a useful warning and will undoubtedly help.

It was also fun seeing a familiar face at the Marblemount RS, Gary Yngve. I offered to sell him mosquito repellent but received only an evil stare. Hope your climb went well, Gary.